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rotellat oil in an mx bike


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Some may view it as a self-serving statement, but Rotella experts claim that Rotella is suitable for motorcycles (even those with wet clutches). I don't think Rotella would publish such a statement for liability reasons, if the oil wasn't suitable for motorcycles. See http://www.rotella.com/qa/searchprocess.php

They do mention that the Ash content is higher than the JASO ash content. JASO recommends 1.2% and Rotella has 1.47%.

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Some may view it as a self-serving statement, but Rotella experts claim that Rotella is suitable for motorcycles (even those with wet clutches). I don't think Rotella would publish such a statement for liability reasons, if the oil wasn't suitable for motorcycles. See http://www.rotella.com/qa/searchprocess.php

They do mention that the Ash content is higher than the JASO ash content. JASO recommends 1.2% and Rotella has 1.47%.

Additionally, the statement made at this link addresses only the question of the friction issue, not shear stability. Strictly as an engine lubricant, I am confident that Rotella is an excellent choice. Being a commercial graded lubricant, it has a number of the attributes of an SG oil, and the ash content probably wouldn't be a problem for most MX bikes anyway, since they are run hard enough in general to keep chamber deposits down. The only question I've ever had is will it stay in grade running through the trans?

Shell themselves warned one TT member that an oil available in Canada, Rotella Syn 0w-40, was likely not shear stable enough for use in the share engine and transmission of his YZF. No other Shell products were mentioned in the response he posted, so the question remains open as far as T Syn 5w-40.

Also note that the JASO T-903 standard covers a variety of things, including wet clutch compatibility, additive content, and other requirements.

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How much time is on the sample you're sending out?

One ride at a MX track and 2 woods rides. About 10-12 hours, I'm just guessing I don't have an hour meter. I can tell you the last ride was muddy and my bike boiled over a couple times in the tight woods, the auto clutch adds a bunch of heat to the motor. It should be interesting.

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I personally wouldn't run it,just because it has a lot of detergent in it.I'd try Mobil Delvac:equivalent but better and with less detergents.Most of my customers that use Rotella in their OTR trucks complain about oil consumption,which is mostly due to the detergents.

I find this curious. I had been running Mobile1 in my 89 Mustang for...well since the second oil change and its always burned about a quart every 2500 miles. The car now has about 122K on it. I started running 15-40 Rotella in it about 115K and the oil consumption was cut in half. And it runs smoother. And Im getting a little better mileage, 17.5 mpg verses about 14 but the car runs at least 15 degrees hotter.

What I find even more curious was my Dodge Ram. It runs so much smoother on the Rotella that it was like a freakin tune up in a bottle. It also runs a bit warmer, but gets better mileage. :applause:

The Dodge never used any oil. Still doesnt at 98K.

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It could be awhile before I get the test kit. The website says allow 2-3 weeks for delivery. Oh well, I post the results when I can.

I "usually" get my kit from blackstone in a week or so. Also, don't forget to include your email address so they can email the results to you as soon as they are finished with the oil...

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I "usually" get my kit from blackstone in a week or so. Also, don't forget to include your email address so they can email the results to you as soon as they are finished with the oil...

Will do, How long does it take them to find the results?

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So are you guys changing filter or just the oil when you change every other ride ??

I just bough a gallon of Rotella dino oil for my V Strom and love it so far. I couldnt find the synthetic at Walmart.

I clean my filter everytime I change the oil, its a brass mesh filter and I rinse it in carb clean and let it dry. Its a K&N filter part number 142. Some will say this is not the best way to filter my oil, but I change it so often it really doesn't matter. I been using this method since the bike was new.

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Mixing oils isn't advisable because the results can't be predicted. They could be tested to see what your concoction turned out to be, but it's better to just buy what you want to start with. The "winter" viscosity (the first number with the 'w') is less important in most cases than the full operating temperature viscosity (the higher number), because that's what your engine knows about when you're using it hard.

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i've used rotella in my bikes since 92, and had no bottom end trouble ever. i started running it in a rm 125 that was going through clutches constantly and had to change the oil every moto. we have drums of rotella at our business so i started using it, since it was there and i was using so much oil. this ended the clutch problems, i've also tried it in someone elses bike who abuses the clutch badly and it also helped. in addition to the bikes i've run it in all of my cars and trucks with no failures.

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Rotella might be the only diesel rated oil that won't hurt the wet clutches.

Some info on avoiding diesel rated oils here:

To be avoided:

Synthetic oil if you run leaded fuel more than 30% of the time

Oils with friction modifier additives ("antifriction"), will cause the slipper clutch to slip

Oils designed for "conventional" aircraft engines

Oils designed primarily for diesel engines as they generally have insufficient high temperature properties and additives which can cause friction clutch slipping

http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed4.htm

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  • 5 weeks later...

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