1997 XR600r. what stator should i use?

[simon@vic]

i have an XR600 dual sport conversion project on my hands.

i was hoping one of you guys could help me a bit.

lighting and wiring should not be a problem. I'm experienced at building custom harnesses and have some nice lights picked out. using the KTM LH bar switch.

here in BC to pass and inspection the bikes lights must work when the engine is not running. there for i will also need a battery.

i was wondering what you guys know about stators. what ones are good and what are bad. or if i should just wind the one that is in the bike. i have looked at a few sets of winding instructions but that all seem to be just adding to the 2 phase system for a higher wattage bulb. i believe i need 3 phase ac to run to the REG REC.

any input would be great.

thx

[al_piv]

check with Dale @ www.trickdualsport.com.

[snaggleXR650]

Hello,

Most street bikes have a 3 phase system for the lighting coil. Most dirt bikes/quads with lights do NOT.

Assuming your stock lighting coil works, all you need is to replace the stock regulator with a regulator/rectifier and a 12V NiCad battery pack. Both can be purchased at bajadesigns.com. The regulator/rectifier is a single unit but serves two purposes. The regulator clamps the voltage from your stator at ~14VAC (like the stock regulator). The rectifier part smoothes out the AC voltage, turning it into DC voltage to charge the battery. As long as you have *more* than 12V, then your battery will charge. Your headlights, turnsignals, running lights, horn etc... all run off the battery. This way the lights will work without the bike running, until the battery runs down. You will only be able to run a single 35W headlight with the stock stator and still charge the battery.

You can also buy a 10+ Amp rated "bridge rectifier" from an electronics supply place for less than $10. This will do the same thing when used in conjunction with your stock regulator. It's just that the typical Tympanium reg/rec is a single high capacity (150W) weather resistant unit that is easy to mount and wire, but more expensive.

If you want to run a 55W headlight, then you will need to rewind your stator as per instructions at several sites. However, you will get much better results by removing the stock lighting coil totally and rewinding all ten poles with 18awg magnet wire, rather than adding on to the stock windings as most sites describe. You will want ~32 turns (wraps) per pole for a total of 320 turns over 10 poles. This will give you ~125W+, plenty to keep your battery charged and run a 55W headlight to full brightness even at low RPM.

For 100W+ headlights you will get into another can of worms...

The stators from Ricky Stator and Bajadesigns are 200W single output or ~100W dual output (two separate coils). The single output is really too much unless you plan to run 100W+ lighting system. With a dual output setup you would run a basic system as described above with the Tympanium reg/rec, battery and 12VDC system. But then for the other output you would use the stock regulator to run your headlight with regulated AC voltage (not DC as in my first description). However, the headlight does not run off the battery, thus it will not work unless the motor is running, not what you want.

Mail me if you have questions. Good luck.

[rmhrc630]

Hello,

Most street bikes have a 3 phase system for the lighting coil. Most dirt bikes/quads with lights do NOT.

Assuming your stock lighting coil works, all you need is to replace the stock regulator with a regulator/rectifier and a 12V NiCad battery pack. Both can be purchased at bajadesigns.com. The regulator/rectifier is a single unit but serves two purposes. The regulator clamps the voltage from your stator at ~14VAC (like the stock regulator). The rectifier part smoothes out the AC voltage, turning it into DC voltage to charge the battery. As long as you have *more* than 12V, then your battery will charge. Your headlights, turnsignals, running lights, horn etc... all run off the battery. This way the lights will work without the bike running, until the battery runs down. You will only be able to run a single 35W headlight with the stock stator and still charge the battery.

You can also buy a 10+ Amp rated "bridge rectifier" from an electronics supply place for less than $10. This will do the same thing when used in conjunction with your stock regulator. It's just that the typical Tympanium reg/rec is a single high capacity (150W) weather resistant unit that is easy to mount and wire, but more expensive.

If you want to run a 55W headlight, then you will need to rewind your stator as per instructions at several sites. However, you will get much better results by removing the stock lighting coil totally and rewinding all ten poles with 18awg magnet wire, rather than adding on to the stock windings as most sites describe. You will want ~32 turns (wraps) per pole for a total of 320 turns over 10 poles. This will give you ~125W+, plenty to keep your battery charged and run a 55W headlight to full brightness even at low RPM.

For 100W+ headlights you will get into another can of worms...

The stators from Ricky Stator and Bajadesigns are 200W single output or ~100W dual output (two separate coils). The single output is really too much unless you plan to run 100W+ lighting system. With a dual output setup you would run a basic system as described above with the Tympanium reg/rec, battery and 12VDC system. But then for the other output you would use the stock regulator to run your headlight with regulated AC voltage (not DC as in my first description). However, the headlight does not run off the battery, thus it will not work unless the motor is running, not what you want.

Mail me if you have questions. Good luck.

thats awesome!!!!

[Shawn_Mc]

Snaggle, gotta say, thats the best reply on this topic Ive seen.

Well done.