Next time, i`ll locktite the oil drain...!!

17 replies to this topic
  • OlaGB

Posted December 19, 2005 - 09:42 AM


:p :applause: :bonk: :cry: :lol: :cry: :cry: :bonk:

So there it happened, the rear bottom oil drain screw is missing.. so is the engine oil.. I noticed a very noisy engine when i got home, and saw oil drips under the bike after few seconds.. :bonk:

I could have gotten lucky, but i dont take any chances...

Guess i will take out the engine, and try to open it and change out bearings, rings and look for other damages now..

Life sucks sometimes.. :bonk: Allthoug, life was great only seconds before :bonk:

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted December 19, 2005 - 09:53 AM


I think locktiting the oil drain plug is a bad idea. Too many chance to goober up the hole. Safety wire if you must but I think a better choice is a properly torqued oil drain bolt with a fiber washer. Also, how do you intend to clean out the threads after you have drained the oil to make the locktite work? There's always a dribble of oil even if it drains for a long time.

  • Indy_WR450

Posted December 19, 2005 - 10:14 AM


Ditto, forget the loctite! Drill the head of the bolt and safety wire it to the frame if you must be sure. :applause:

  • simon@vic

Posted December 19, 2005 - 10:18 AM


I'm going to 3rd that. don't use a loctie on your drain plug. use a torque wrench if you must!!!!! or tie wire like Indy says.

  • Dirty_Sanchez

Posted December 19, 2005 - 10:24 AM


I concur, I'm the resident factory Loctite Rep and I'm all for the safety wire route as it relates to the oil drain plug.

Cured Threadlocker might make it's way into some of the small oil passages.

And that would be bad...bad.


  • farkawi

Posted December 19, 2005 - 12:25 PM


I've always drilled & safety wired my drain plugs as well as the oil filter screws. Indy's advice is sound.

  • OlaGB

Posted December 19, 2005 - 01:13 PM


Ok, i take that advice..

Ripped off the head, and cylinder now, and found the piston in a bad shape..

The camshafts are ok, and they had plenty of oil film on them..
The piston`s rear side, has heat damage, so the rings are stuck there..
The cylinder has marks after the heat of the piston, but it feels like it`s something stuck in there if you know what i mean.. Seems like the piston metal has melted on the nicalsil cyl or something.. I`ll try to "hone" (is that a word for cylinder "grinding/polishing" in english? :applause: ) the cylinder to see if i get it out..

But a much more important question:
The cranck is a little blue on both sides of the rod. Is this normal?
I can feel a little slack sideways (from left to right, not twisting) but can not say that i feel anything up/down..

Is there hope for not splitting the engine, or is it just a stupid thought not to?

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  • xXHondaOwnsXx

Posted December 19, 2005 - 01:18 PM


The connecting rod movements and colour are normal.

  • gobigblue

Posted December 19, 2005 - 03:30 PM


I've always drilled & safety wired my drain plugs as well as the oil filter screws. Indy's advice is sound.

to do this do you just drill a small hole through the head of the bolt and then safety wire it to where? just want to make sure this doesn't happen to me and burn the piston.

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  • MotoGoalie

Posted December 19, 2005 - 04:00 PM


Damn, talk about Yamaha reliability.

YOu do this to a CRF and I'd bet a dollar to donut that it would have been a mortgage payment to fix.

  • mikedabike

Posted December 19, 2005 - 05:46 PM


I safety wire the big drain plug to the little drain plug.

  • simon@vic

Posted December 19, 2005 - 07:05 PM


i would say if the crank big end isnt "crunchy" or "sloppy" felling you should be fine with just doing the top end stuff. it would be safe to guess with the heat involved up top that you could melt the piston long before the crank is/was damaged.

now is the perfect time for the 490 kin in your SM bike :applause:.
you will need a piston, rings, and cyl any way!!!

  • OlaGB

Posted December 19, 2005 - 09:50 PM


The 490 kit was the only big + i saw about this too :applause:

Wondering if i really need a new cyl though.. Guess i`ll try to see if i can polish away the damage..

  • Matty05

Posted December 19, 2005 - 10:10 PM


Athena make a 480 kit for it, $660 US dollars.

  • simon@vic

Posted December 19, 2005 - 10:12 PM


why not just get the 490. it isnt that expensive.
then you can brag to your freinds......i mean you will have more power them :applause:


  • WheelsUp

Posted December 19, 2005 - 10:18 PM


If the cams were okay and had a good film, my guess is the crank is fine too. The piston takes the brunt of the heat.

  • bg10459

Posted December 20, 2005 - 06:45 AM


Read through this post before making any decisions on a big bore kit. Not sure if it applies to your situation, but it can't hurt.

  • OlaGB

Posted December 20, 2005 - 09:38 AM


Great thread there! Thanx!

I ordered a standard size wiseco piston today, so i will try this out first..

If the engine still makes alot of noise, i will pull it out of the bike, and do a full makeover.. Perhaps i build it up again with a ported head and big bore then.. But for now i`ll just stick with original ccm and my hotcams+ setup from before..

If this goes well, then my cristmas is saved :applause: A full week free from work, without my bike running, could be boooring...


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