Stalling!!! Rekluse? or flywheel weight


26 replies to this topic
  • rich1167

Posted December 11, 2005 - 06:07 PM

#1

I've got the bike pretty well dialed in jetting wise. Done all the free mods. Was riding with some guys today on 2 strokes. Went up this nasty, rocky uphill. They had little trouble while I stalled about 4 times. Now I am willing to admit it may be may ridding style. I have rode 2's for a long time and haven't had this kinda trouble. My question is will a flywheel weight help? If so what size should I get?. Or should I go go for the rekluse. Keep in mind I'm cheap!!!

  • Matty05

Posted December 11, 2005 - 06:16 PM

#2

You already have too much flywheel weight!

The cheapest way is to turn up the idle. Use your clutch more.

You might have to change your gearing depending on the riding you do. If you always ride nasty hills, it maybe the best. If you don't, I would put up with the stalling and work on your technique. Half the time you work out how to ride the hill properly after a few go's anyway.

  • BIGBLUEKNIGHT

Posted December 11, 2005 - 06:25 PM

#3

rekluse be's the shiznit but they are really expensive. it may just be you need to be better with the clutch. try riding with at least one finger on the clutch at all times it helps because then you are already prepared to pull the clutch in and feather it if you get into trouble.

  • rich1167

Posted December 11, 2005 - 06:28 PM

#4

Right now my gearing is 13/50 and it still has more top end than I need. Maybe a 52 rear would help. I don't do a lot of super technical riding. But would like to be able to tackle it when I need to.

  • Matty05

Posted December 11, 2005 - 06:42 PM

#5

13/50 should be low enough.

lower gearing makes your bike a bit harder to ride, having to change gears all the time, and keeping the front wheel on the ground.

It depends where you ride though. I ride some nasty stuff here too, 14/50 gearing for me. Just have to blast that clutch, pick your lines and commit yourself!

  • old man dan

Posted December 11, 2005 - 08:50 PM

#6

Make sure your jetting is perfect on the bottom (fuel screw) and your is idle up to 1900, it sounds high when you set it but it works wonders for the stalling issue. Plus always ride with at least one finger on the clutch.

  • Matty05

Posted December 11, 2005 - 09:24 PM

#7

Actually rich, are you running the stock muffler??? Ditch this first for a slip-on!
The new found power will have you roosting up the hills mate!

  • ARin

Posted December 11, 2005 - 09:41 PM

#8

there is nothing wrong with the bike, you just arent used to it. come at the hill in a lower gear, off the seat, on the pegs, and on the gas....remember your clutch.

it is just a different beast than a 2 stroke.

  • Dan_Lorenze

Posted December 12, 2005 - 05:28 AM

#9

there is nothing wrong with the bike, you just arent used to it. come at the hill in a lower gear, off the seat, on the pegs, and on the gas....remember your clutch.

it is just a different beast than a 2 stroke.


Agreed.... I think you should also concentrate on momentum. Your gearing is fine.

  • rich1167

Posted December 12, 2005 - 07:57 AM

#10

I guess I was under a misconception that 4 strokes were easier to keep running in low speed conditions. I'm happy with the performance of this bike over all. But the tight stuff is just killing me. I was riding with a guy that said he did 5 miles of hell on his KTM 2 stroke with guy on a WR and the WR guy sold his bike afterward. I want to think I made a good move in buying this bike. I think it's just going to take time and practice. Thanks for all your responses.

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  • Chas_M

Posted December 12, 2005 - 09:26 AM

#11

Auto clutches may be a little pricey, but they are worth their weight in gold. :applause:

  • rich1167

Posted December 12, 2005 - 09:30 AM

#12

Auto clutches may be a little pricey, but they are worth their weight in gold. :applause:

I found a guy up in Montana that is a Rekluse reseller. He quoted me $365 shipped. Best price I have found for a new one. Thats still a lot of beer $$$.

  • byggd

Posted December 12, 2005 - 09:32 AM

#13

I agree with the others. Raising your idle may do the trick. My 426 stalled a lot (or should I cay I stalled it a lot :ride: ) so I got the Rekluse and never stalled it again. It feathers the clutch better than humanly possible :applause:

  • rich1167

Posted December 12, 2005 - 12:11 PM

#14

Now I'm starting to think exhaust for starters. Mabey the Q2. I figure it can't hurt. Then if I'm still a squid I'll go for the auto clutch. My wife wants to know if we claim the bike as a dependent. :applause:

  • ncmountainman

Posted December 12, 2005 - 01:00 PM

#15

i'd go with the powerbomb header and the new ti powercore 4 w/quiet core insert,that way you have the choice. the Q's rob way too much bottom end for me(i don't see the Q2 being a whole lot better) but the biggest advantage in your situation would be the rekluse clutch,i've run one for 2 yrs now and its a big advantage :applause: also look at the boyesen quickshot,it really helps throttle control in tight technical stuff.

  • rich1167

Posted December 12, 2005 - 02:11 PM

#16

Thanks for the exhaust advice. Theirs so many out their it's hard to know what to get. I've got the jetting dialed in pretty good so their isn't much of a bog. I just get into the tight stuff and it's hard to tell by engine sound when to clutch and before you know it bang it's dead.

  • Indy_WR450

Posted December 13, 2005 - 02:05 PM

#17

I have the solution to your problem especially in Colorado boulders! :ride:

Z-start is perfect for your woes! I got it on my WR490 and it is awesome for nasty low speed rock climbing! Order your Z-start with 6 TC balls and perch adjustor set up with the heavy spring. :applause:

  • rich1167

Posted December 13, 2005 - 02:35 PM

#18

I have the solution to your problem especially in Colorado boulders! :applause:

Thats exactly the issue. I get into tight stuff hit a small Cliff or a tight rocky section and I'm done. I'd like to hit Moab in the Spring but know I would hate it. As for the TC balls and perch adjuster with heavy spring. Are thees options from Rekluse?

Also I love the engine braking on steep downhills. Do I have to give that up with a Z-start? If its a tit for tat thing I can live with it. Or live around it.

  • RichBaker

Posted December 13, 2005 - 02:51 PM

#19

Nope, it's not a slipper clutch. It doesn't release until around idle...depends on which spring and how it's adjusted. I have mine set for ~2000-2200 rpm.

  • johnnyghia

Posted December 13, 2005 - 02:59 PM

#20

I wouldnt mind stalling at all if I had electric start :applause: lazy git :ride:




 
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