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What would you do to an '03 YZ450F to make it the ultimate woods weapon


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here is what i have done to mine thus far... flywheel weight,very nice! larger tank a must. added some tough hand guards. o-ring chain.,spark arrestor,some different bars and clamp.,routed oil breather into air box. some things i would want if i had cash...maybe try out a auto clutch 03 yz clutch really sucks anyway.18 in rear wheel,19in has takin a beating in rocks.steering stabilizer. fork revalve pretty harsh in rough stuff,although turn the compression out a bunch helped alot.

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What's the difference between riding an 18" or 19" rear wheel for off road? I'm currently on the 19". How would it benefit me to go down an inch? Thanks.

Mostly protects the rim better, less likely to get a flat, and they are a little easier to control in the ruts. The extra side wall will do wonders off road.

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Well if you ride tighter woods I would go 13/52 as this is what I just started running this past wkend (in the snow with trellborgs) and it worked great. I ride alot of tight stuff though not sure if your on wide open trails or what but our trails arent trails untill we enter the woods for the most part in the winter.

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why does'nt people buy an WR instead of converting an YZ?

are there some things that are better in the YZ?

IMHO the WRs are heavy and tall feeling for tight woods with the extra weight of the battery and starter, kickstand, lights, kickstand, etc. The lightweight and "flickable" feeling w/ the lower center of gravity of an MX bike makes them fun to thread through tight singletrack. That is if they are geared properly. My girl has a WR and while i like it, I like riding my YZ better.

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why does'nt people buy an WR instead of converting an YZ?

are there some things that are better in the YZ?

Lighter and faster and it's just what I have.

1. Clarke 2.8 tank

2. 1 tooth larger C/S

3. Handguards

4. Utah Skidplate

5. FMF Q

6. SDG taller seat, more foam (jurys out on this product)

7. O-ring chain or the like

8. Perfecto jetting. Take your time to get it right.

9. Revalved rear shock, Hitchcock industries in Littleton Colorado.

Works pretty good offroad but I would like the Wide Ratio gear set. :applause:

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here's the mntnmn formula for success

fmf powerbomb/powercore 4 SA(with insert for those quiet moments)the new ti maybe?

13/52 ,sidewinder chain/sprockets,TM design slide+guide,and case saver

galfer wave rotors/EBC mxs pads,rear shark fin

braided front brake line

WER steering damper

revalved susp/proper springs(i run eibach frnt/renton ti rear w/factory R&D spring glide)

proper tires for your conditions(18" rear)/bridgestone UHD tubes

emig racing offset clamps(still available for the 46's)

tootech subtanks

renthal fatbars(proper bend for you,but cut down to 30" or less)/moose handgaurds

SDG gripper seat (tall or reg whatever suits ya)

clarke 2.8 tank

powerpegz rotating footpegs(lowboy or reg)

WER glide plate

fluidyne rads /EVANS npg-r

unabiker rad gaurds

rekluse clutch,with override/rotella 30wt w/22cool

trail tech +6 flywheel

stock yz cam

proper jetting

boyesen quickshot

powernow

twinair

xr 600 one way drain for airbox

ICAT

NGK8EIX

i've probly forgotten a couple things,but ya can't give away all the secrets.

this makes for one heck of a woods weapon :thumbsup:i run all of these things and would buy them again.

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I would probably buya WR instead. :ride:

i had all that crap on my 04wr and transferred it to the yz,and the yz is much faster,the gear spacing is perfect and there is less engine braking,its also lighter (even after i took 20lbs off the wr) as long as you don't have to go over 70mph this setup is about as good as it gets :applause:

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I thought about a WR as well, but, after riding my dads a couple times before making my decision, I realized that his 250F was heavier than my 450F. And I am not exactly a huge person, so I really need a lighter bike. Im pretty sure dirtbike magazine did a weigh in section and found that the WR450 weighs about 30lbs more than the YZ450. Plus, after riding a YZ450 and a WR450 in the same day, I still wanted the YZ even though the WR would probably be more convenient and easier to ride.

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here's the mntnmn formula for success

fmf powerbomb/powercore 4 SA(with insert for those quiet moments)the new ti maybe?

13/52 ,sidewinder chain/sprockets,TM design slide+guide,and case saver

galfer wave rotors/EBC mxs pads,rear shark fin

braided front brake line

WER steering damper

revalved susp/proper springs(i run eibach frnt/renton ti rear w/factory R&D spring glide)

proper tires for your conditions(18" rear)/bridgestone UHD tubes

emig racing offset clamps(still available for the 46's)

tootech subtanks

renthal fatbars(proper bend for you,but cut down to 30" or less)/moose handgaurds

SDG gripper seat (tall or reg whatever suits ya)

clarke 2.8 tank

powerpegz rotating footpegs(lowboy or reg)

WER glide plate

fluidyne rads /EVANS npg-r

unabiker rad gaurds

rekluse clutch,with override/rotella 30wt w/22cool

trail tech +6 flywheel

stock yz cam

proper jetting

boyesen quickshot

powernow

twinair

xr 600 one way drain for airbox

ICAT

NGK8EIX

i've probly forgotten a couple things,but ya can't give away all the secrets.

this makes for one heck of a woods weapon :thumbsup:i run all of these things and would buy them again.

What are the braided lines, the wavy rotors, offset clamps, and tootech subtanks going to do? Im pretty sure that wavy rotors help cool off the disks faster, but I have no idea why the braided lines, the offset clamps, and the subtanks are going to help me.

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Subtanks will make the suspension even more supple. The offset clamps make the steering quicker. Braided lines feel more secure and are less prone to damage. Wave rotors have a larger swept area, self clean better and are generally larger so there is more power in braking. I personally think the Rekluse should be the first addition along with radiator and hand protection. Also if you are running an 18" rim if the overall height of the tire is less than the original 19" tire, the steering will be slower. That is why the clamps were probably recommended. You could also slide the fork legs up in the stock clamps to quicken the steering.

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