What would you do to an '03 YZ450F to make it the ultimate woods weapon


22 replies to this topic
  • kawirider

Posted December 10, 2005 - 06:44 PM

#1

Just list what you would do in order of importance. Gearing is currently 14/51 and the bike is stock except for handlebars, and frame savers.

  • 642MX

Posted December 10, 2005 - 06:53 PM

#2

1. Rekluse auto clutch
2. FMF Q series exhaust
3. oversized fuel tank
4. fork and shock revalve
5. 18 inch rear wheel

That should get you started.

  • BIGBLUEKNIGHT

Posted December 10, 2005 - 06:55 PM

#3

1. Rekluse auto clutch
2. FMF Q series exhaust
3. oversized fuel tank
4. fork and shock revalve
5. 18 inch rear wheel

That should get you started.



that list looks good

  • bigc

Posted December 10, 2005 - 10:47 PM

#4

here is what i have done to mine thus far... flywheel weight,very nice! larger tank a must. added some tough hand guards. o-ring chain.,spark arrestor,some different bars and clamp.,routed oil breather into air box. some things i would want if i had cash...maybe try out a auto clutch 03 yz clutch really sucks anyway.18 in rear wheel,19in has takin a beating in rocks.steering stabilizer. fork revalve pretty harsh in rough stuff,although turn the compression out a bunch helped alot.

  • Naterob

Posted December 10, 2005 - 11:55 PM

#5

What's the difference between riding an 18" or 19" rear wheel for off road? I'm currently on the 19". How would it benefit me to go down an inch? Thanks.

  • BlindSide

Posted December 11, 2005 - 03:09 AM

#6

Fly-Wheel weight
WR Cam
Suspension Work

  • nimiz1

Posted December 11, 2005 - 09:30 AM

#7

bigc why do you need a steering stabilizer for a woods riding?

  • 642MX

Posted December 11, 2005 - 10:13 AM

#8

What's the difference between riding an 18" or 19" rear wheel for off road? I'm currently on the 19". How would it benefit me to go down an inch? Thanks.



Mostly protects the rim better, less likely to get a flat, and they are a little easier to control in the ruts. The extra side wall will do wonders off road.

  • xtreme165

Posted December 12, 2005 - 11:10 AM

#9

Well if you ride tighter woods I would go 13/52 as this is what I just started running this past wkend (in the snow with trellborgs) and it worked great. I ride alot of tight stuff though not sure if your on wide open trails or what but our trails arent trails untill we enter the woods for the most part in the winter.

  • Fizz

Posted December 12, 2005 - 11:30 AM

#10

why does'nt people buy an WR instead of converting an YZ?
are there some things that are better in the YZ?

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  • TeamEndo

Posted December 12, 2005 - 12:15 PM

#11

why does'nt people buy an WR instead of converting an YZ?
are there some things that are better in the YZ?


IMHO the WRs are heavy and tall feeling for tight woods with the extra weight of the battery and starter, kickstand, lights, kickstand, etc. The lightweight and "flickable" feeling w/ the lower center of gravity of an MX bike makes them fun to thread through tight singletrack. That is if they are geared properly. My girl has a WR and while i like it, I like riding my YZ better.

  • MotoGoalie

Posted December 12, 2005 - 12:33 PM

#12

why does'nt people buy an WR instead of converting an YZ?
are there some things that are better in the YZ?


Lighter and faster and it's just what I have.

1. Clarke 2.8 tank
2. 1 tooth larger C/S
3. Handguards
4. Utah Skidplate
5. FMF Q
6. SDG taller seat, more foam (jurys out on this product)
7. O-ring chain or the like
8. Perfecto jetting. Take your time to get it right.
9. Revalved rear shock, Hitchcock industries in Littleton Colorado.

Works pretty good offroad but I would like the Wide Ratio gear set. :applause:

  • ncmountainman

Posted December 12, 2005 - 01:22 PM

#13

here's the mntnmn formula for success



fmf powerbomb/powercore 4 SA(with insert for those quiet moments)the new ti maybe?
13/52 ,sidewinder chain/sprockets,TM design slide+guide,and case saver
galfer wave rotors/EBC mxs pads,rear shark fin
braided front brake line
WER steering damper
revalved susp/proper springs(i run eibach frnt/renton ti rear w/factory R&D spring glide)
proper tires for your conditions(18" rear)/bridgestone UHD tubes
emig racing offset clamps(still available for the 46's)
tootech subtanks
renthal fatbars(proper bend for you,but cut down to 30" or less)/moose handgaurds
SDG gripper seat (tall or reg whatever suits ya)
clarke 2.8 tank
powerpegz rotating footpegs(lowboy or reg)
WER glide plate
fluidyne rads /EVANS npg-r
unabiker rad gaurds
rekluse clutch,with override/rotella 30wt w/22cool
trail tech +6 flywheel
stock yz cam
proper jetting
boyesen quickshot
powernow
twinair
xr 600 one way drain for airbox
ICAT
NGK8EIX
i've probly forgotten a couple things,but ya can't give away all the secrets.


this makes for one heck of a woods weapon :thumbsup:i run all of these things and would buy them again.

  • Raven1911

Posted December 12, 2005 - 01:30 PM

#14

I would probably buya WR instead. :applause:

  • ncmountainman

Posted December 12, 2005 - 01:59 PM

#15

I would probably buya WR instead. :ride:

i had all that crap on my 04wr and transferred it to the yz,and the yz is much faster,the gear spacing is perfect and there is less engine braking,its also lighter (even after i took 20lbs off the wr) as long as you don't have to go over 70mph this setup is about as good as it gets :applause:

  • kawirider

Posted December 12, 2005 - 03:18 PM

#16

I thought about a WR as well, but, after riding my dads a couple times before making my decision, I realized that his 250F was heavier than my 450F. And I am not exactly a huge person, so I really need a lighter bike. Im pretty sure dirtbike magazine did a weigh in section and found that the WR450 weighs about 30lbs more than the YZ450. Plus, after riding a YZ450 and a WR450 in the same day, I still wanted the YZ even though the WR would probably be more convenient and easier to ride.

  • 642MX

Posted December 12, 2005 - 03:22 PM

#17

I would buy a WR, only if I were to dual sport it. For anything else I'll have a YZ.

  • kawirider

Posted December 12, 2005 - 03:22 PM

#18

here's the mntnmn formula for success



fmf powerbomb/powercore 4 SA(with insert for those quiet moments)the new ti maybe?
13/52 ,sidewinder chain/sprockets,TM design slide+guide,and case saver
galfer wave rotors/EBC mxs pads,rear shark fin
braided front brake line
WER steering damper
revalved susp/proper springs(i run eibach frnt/renton ti rear w/factory R&D spring glide)
proper tires for your conditions(18" rear)/bridgestone UHD tubes
emig racing offset clamps(still available for the 46's)
tootech subtanks
renthal fatbars(proper bend for you,but cut down to 30" or less)/moose handgaurds
SDG gripper seat (tall or reg whatever suits ya)
clarke 2.8 tank
powerpegz rotating footpegs(lowboy or reg)
WER glide plate
fluidyne rads /EVANS npg-r
unabiker rad gaurds
rekluse clutch,with override/rotella 30wt w/22cool
trail tech +6 flywheel
stock yz cam
proper jetting
boyesen quickshot
powernow
twinair
xr 600 one way drain for airbox
ICAT
NGK8EIX
i've probly forgotten a couple things,but ya can't give away all the secrets.


this makes for one heck of a woods weapon :thumbsup:i run all of these things and would buy them again.



What are the braided lines, the wavy rotors, offset clamps, and tootech subtanks going to do? Im pretty sure that wavy rotors help cool off the disks faster, but I have no idea why the braided lines, the offset clamps, and the subtanks are going to help me.

  • 642MX

Posted December 12, 2005 - 03:25 PM

#19

Wavy rotors look cool, I just got my Braking the other day, I haven't even tried it yet. Steel braided lines offer protection, they are worth having for the hard core off-road.

  • Fastest1

Posted December 12, 2005 - 06:12 PM

#20

Subtanks will make the suspension even more supple. The offset clamps make the steering quicker. Braided lines feel more secure and are less prone to damage. Wave rotors have a larger swept area, self clean better and are generally larger so there is more power in braking. I personally think the Rekluse should be the first addition along with radiator and hand protection. Also if you are running an 18" rim if the overall height of the tire is less than the original 19" tire, the steering will be slower. That is why the clamps were probably recommended. You could also slide the fork legs up in the stock clamps to quicken the steering.





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