HELP...Fuel Screw Removal WR 450 2006?


16 replies to this topic
  • twenty34

Posted December 07, 2005 - 06:28 PM

#1

Folks, trying to add an aftermarket easy access Fuel Screw, but how in the heck do you get off the stock one? There's a small, almost flush component, just in front of the carb float bowl with a small hole in the middle of it. I thought it may be a small 1-2mm hex nut, but it doesn't appear to be? I tried a 2mm hex tool and it's too big, a 1.5 mm is too small, so how do I get this thing out to insert the aftermarket. Also, how in the heck would you even adjust it in stock form if no tool works with it?

Thanks!

  • clark4131

Posted December 07, 2005 - 07:23 PM

#2

Thread a small wood, drywall, etc. screw in there and pry it out, it's just a cover over the real fuel screw. I used a very small allen wrench. The Kalifornia Eco-Fags don't want you adjusting it because you'll be releasing too many greenhouse gases and we'll prematurely enter another ice age due to global warming...yeah, you figure that one out :applause: ...SC

  • TARFELE

Posted December 07, 2005 - 07:25 PM

#3

Mine was a flat head.

  • twenty34

Posted December 07, 2005 - 08:57 PM

#4

First things first - TROJANS RULE. :ride:

You are correct, there is a small round aluminum "obstruction" in front of the fuel screw which PEVENTS you from being able to get anything to the screw itself. It looks like it's part of the carb, so it's very misleading.

I pulled the carb out of the flanges and removed the float bowl altogether. Then I took a screwdriver and just gave the round piece a quick slap and the piece came out. Someone else mentioned to use a self-threading drywall screw. This would have worked equally as well.

Man, what a pain and the _SS! :p :p

BTW: I ended up stripping two of the cheap aluminum screws that attach the float bowl so they will need to be replaced. I'm just glad I was able to get the bowl off after stripped the screw heads. They are junk, be very, very careful when removing them. :p :lol: :applause:

Thanks again guys for your help on this. I was stumped, but it's been resolved. :lol:

Why California wouldn't allow you to make a simple fuel screw adjustment is retarded BTW. Do they think we all ride at the same altitude or what! :p

Peace out folks!

r

  • BajaFool

Posted December 07, 2005 - 09:20 PM

#5

Rickk,
Remember when I told you it would be easier to do the carburetor mods with the float bowl removed. Now you know why. When you take off the float bowl, you can push the aluminum plug that blocks access to fuel screw out very easily. I don't know what jetting you decided on for most of your riding, but take note how easy the jets are to access with the float bowl off. While you have the float bowl off, turn the fuel screw to the setting that you have determined is appropriate for your jetting. Since you are reluctant to change jets as riding conditions change, you probably won't need to touch the fuel screw again while you own the bike --- maybe you can take it back for a refund. I bought a Zip-Ty fuel screw, set my mixture when I jetted the new 2003 bike, rode it 3,000 miles from below sea level to 11,000Ft and never touched the fuel screw again. Kind of a waste of money I thought. I just went through the rejetting drill on my 2006 bike. Word of caution, if you take the float bowl off, use a good screwdriver, the phillips head screws that hold the bowl on are soft and tight.

  • clark4131

Posted December 07, 2005 - 09:31 PM

#6

I replaced ALL the phillips heads with allen head screws in my carb. I believe they are M4 screws with a .70 thread pitch. I don't remember what the lengths were, but they vary. A quick trip to my local home improvement emporium solved my stripping issues right quick...SC

  • twenty34

Posted December 07, 2005 - 09:38 PM

#7

Thanks BAJAFool.

Yes, I have the bowl off now. Easy to access everything. I stripped two of the float bowl srews however trying to loosen them. They are off now, but I will need to get some new screws. I order the AIS kit, but it's not in yet. I'm wondering if I could just buy the jets that I need, since I have already performed the Grey-Wire mode, opened up the airbox and have a PMB comming, hopefully before the weekend so I can ride this thing already.

BTW: I have a new adjustable Fuel Screw that I got from CRFsonly.com. It was for a CRF450X, but they they said it will work fine. I tried it this evening and it seems to seat fine. This said, I can now make adjustments on the fly once I put everything back together.

Q: If I can't get a AIS kit by Friday, do you think I can just get some jets and an adjustable needle from my local Yamaha dealer? I thought if nothing else, I could use these jets as a starting point, a 48 pilot jet, 168 main jet, assuming they have them in stock? THOUGHTS? Will the bike performe ok without changing the jetting?

I'm trying to ride this weekend and without the AIS kit, I'm wondering what options I have? Again, the Grey-Wire is removed and the airbox is open. Still waiting on the PMB, but I think it'll be here by tomorow or Friday giving me enough time to install it.




Rickk,
Remember when I told you it would be easier to do the carburetor mods with the float bowl removed. Now you know why. When you take off the float bowl, you can push the aluminum plug that blocks access to fuel screw out very easily. I don't know what jetting you decided on for most of your riding, but take note how easy the jets are to access with the float bowl off. While you have the float bowl off, turn the fuel screw to the setting that you have determined is appropriate for your jetting. Since you are reluctant to change jets as riding conditions change, you probably won't need to touch the fuel screw again while you own the bike --- maybe you can take it back for a refund. I bought a Zip-Ty fuel screw, set my mixture when I jetted the new 2003 bike, rode it 3,000 miles from below sea level to 11,000Ft and never touched the fuel screw again. Kind of a waste of money I thought. I just went through the rejetting drill on my 2006 bike. Word of caution, if you take the float bowl off, use a good screwdriver, the phillips head screws that hold the bowl on are soft and tight.



  • twenty34

Posted December 07, 2005 - 09:39 PM

#8

Cool, thanks...I'll give that a try. Stockers suck!

I replaced ALL the phillips heads with allen head screws in my carb. I believe they are M4 screws with a .70 thread pitch. I don't remember what the lengths were, but they vary. A quick trip to my local home improvement emporium solved my stripping issues right quick...SC



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  • BajaFool

Posted December 07, 2005 - 10:08 PM

#9

Suzuki screws, I'm told, are tougher than Yamaha screws --- this came from a parts guy at a dealership that sells both brands. Do you know the number of the needle? That might take some time to order. Considering the parts in the AIS Kit that you would have purchase or make, I think waiting for the kit to arrive is a better plan. Riding the bike with stock jetting and without all of the other mods is not advised. The bike runs badly at best --- no power and very lean. Patience and incorportating the AIS kit is what is called for here. :applause:

  • twenty34

Posted December 07, 2005 - 10:22 PM

#10

Sorry, not sure of the number for the needle. I'm sure it's in my Yamaha book.

Can you clarify your comment, just so I'm clear? "Riding the bike with stock jetting and without all of the other mods is not advised. "

So far, all that I've done is add the new fuel mixture screw for easy access, cutout the two holes on the right side of the airbox (the pre-molded ones and I DIDN'Ttake all the stuff off the top airbox as was advised), removed (not cut) the grey-wire (I can easily plug it back in if I need to), and pulled the throttle stop screw - I'm either gonna cut it or or wait till the kit comes in.

This said, would I still need to re-jet, assumming the AIS kit won't be here in time? I have 1 mile (yes, 1 mile) on the bike thus far, so all I'm really expecting this weeked is to break it in and get it dialed. The reason I want to get this all done now is because on that 1 mile ride in the neighborhood, I could immediately tell what a DOG the bike was. It was pethetic, so I'm well aware of the poor performance.

Thoughts?

Suzuki screws, I'm told, are tougher than Yamaha screws --- this came from a parts guy at a dealership that sells both brands. Do you know the number of the needle? That might take some time to order. Considering the parts in the AIS Kit that you would have purchase or make, I think waiting for the kit to arrive is a better plan. Riding the bike with stock jetting and without all of the other mods is not advised. The bike runs badly at best --- no power and very lean. Patience and incorportating the AIS kit is what is called for here. :applause:



  • Matty05

Posted December 08, 2005 - 03:20 AM

#11

Thread a small wood, drywall, etc. screw in there and pry it out, it's just a cover over the real fuel screw. I used a very small allen wrench. The Kalifornia Eco-Fags don't want you adjusting it because you'll be releasing too many greenhouse gases and we'll prematurely enter another ice age due to global warming...yeah, you figure that one out :applause: ...SC

Only in good old USA!
I thought it was because the japs think you guys are idiots :ride:
"This will stop them messing around with it!" :p

  • old man dan

Posted December 08, 2005 - 11:15 AM

#12

I would remove the snorkel from the top of your airbox and install a 48 PJ and 170 Main. The needle in the AIS kit is just a stock 04 needle (with adjusting grooves). If your PMB outlet doesn't come in time just remove the stock tip and ride a little loud. Now that you have the extended fuel screw adjustments are easy and you can change mains and pilots through the drain plug on the bottom (no need to remove fuel bowl). When the rest of your parts come you can finish up.

  • twenty34

Posted December 08, 2005 - 11:36 AM

#13

Hey old man dan,

thanks...The PMB is on the truck for delivery today actually. The AIS kit is in question, but I'm wondering if I could just get the needle and jets from the local Yamaha store. The stock 04 needle that you mention - is this a 2004 YZ 426 needle that I need?

Thanks

I would remove the snorkel from the top of your airbox and install a 48 PJ and 170 Main. The needle in the AIS kit is just a stock 04 needle (with adjusting grooves). If your PMB outlet doesn't come in time just remove the stock tip and ride a little loud. Now that you have the extended fuel screw adjustments are easy and you can change mains and pilots through the drain plug on the bottom (no need to remove fuel bowl). When the rest of your parts come you can finish up.



  • old man dan

Posted December 08, 2005 - 12:14 PM

#14

Order the stock 04 WR450 needle, i'm not sure if it's the same as the 426. The 04 is the same taper as the 05-06 but it's adjustable. You could probably leave the stock 06 needle in until you get your kit because you're not likely to try to adjust the clip position while you're doing your break-in ride. If you really want the best get a JD kit with custom taper needles. Enjoy.

  • RichBaker

Posted December 08, 2005 - 12:32 PM

#15

pulled the throttle stop screw - I'm either gonna cut it or or wait till the kit comes in.
Thoughts?

Don't ride without a throttle stop....it can break the slide if you do, and the pieces usually go into the engine.... :applause:
Cut the screw and re-jet for the mods before your next ride, you'll be a lot happier!

  • RichBaker

Posted December 08, 2005 - 12:35 PM

#16

You can shim the needle with small washers under the clip....works quite well and you can even achieve 1/2 steps with them. Pull the needle and take it to the hardware store to get the right size.

  • old man dan

Posted December 08, 2005 - 02:25 PM

#17

Good point about cutting the throttle stop Rich, as far as fine tuning the jetting my thought was to get it close so for the break-in period and do the fine tuning when he gets his AIS kit. (I assume he means the GYTR AIA kit which includes the jets, needle, throttle stop etc).




 
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