2006 Yamaha WR 450f Performance Mods?

[twenty34]

Just picked up a new 2006 WR 450 and it seems sluggish so I'm looking for suggestions. I'd like to keep it relatively stock and find out what I can do to remove/add to help get better performance.

For example, I've heard the throttle is locked at half open, but how do you modify it to make it work fully? Do I need to alter the jetting? How about the stock baffle? Does anyone know about these mods offered by the Yamaha site? Also, what is the AIS removal and do I need to do it. Is it difficult?

Any suggestions that are cost effective would be appreciated.

Thanks!

RickK

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/accessories/acscitemdetail/5/349/1222/5389/2006/1/3335/0/detail.aspx

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/accessories/acscitemdetail/5/349/1222/5389/2006/1/6228/0/detail.aspx

[tony1970]

Mods for the 2005 are the same for the 2006. Do a search for the throttle stop mod, airbox mods, grey wire mod in this forum. Also ARin did a good tutorial on jetting your carb, which you will need to do when you do the mods. Good luck.

[tomwr450f]

Look into PROMOTO BILLETT, there is link somewhere in the threads for a exhaust insert for the bike, and it won't hurt your ears either.

[paulzarr]

We're headed down the same road with our '06 WR450FV's. I've had mine for seven weeks and I'm really happy I picked the WR! After spending all that $$$$ for the brand new bike I can't really blow thousands more just to have the fastest/coolest bike in camp. The titanium pipes, carbon fiber accessories and silly sticker kits aren't important to me. Out on the course, or trail, is where it matters. However, having owned and raced a YZ490, CR500, and 540DXC I have a good idea what I want from my WR450. For what it's worth this is where I started, and what I've done so far:

Bought and installed the AIS removal kit (GYT-5TJ93-69-00). Yamaha should GIVE this to ALL '05 and '06 WR buyers! It includes all the plugs you need plus a YZ throttle stop, an adjustible needle and clip, a 48 pilot jet, and detailed installation instructions. Right now this the BEST $40.00 you can spend on your WR. Also in the instructions are the airbox snorkel removal, gray wire disconnect, and exhaust restrictor mod. I bought the $60.00 Pro Moto Billet insert (05YWRINS) for the stock silencer, which they claim gives us 6.3 additional HP while staying under 96DB! I'm keeping the stock insert in my tool box in case an unfriendly BLM ranger fails me on the sound test, which can ruin a weekend. While at my Yamaha dealer I also got a few main jets (168, 170, 172), a 40 leak jet, and an MSR fuel mixture screw. I'm still tweaking (my jetting MY JETTING) the carb, but now I can go fast enough to determine what exactly I need to do with the suspension. Stiffer springs to start! INDY's now famous WR jetting guide (in this forum)is so accurate he could only help you more by installing the jets himself. When I'm done purchasing and installing my handlebars & hand guards, skid plate, big gas tank, and tall seat I'll enjoy years of serious screaming through the California desert!

Finally read this forum regularly! Many friendly, helpful riders post useful information here all the time. Info that saves us considerable time, money, and mistakes!

pz

[ARin]

AIS is air injection to help burn spent fuel to meet CA regs for trail bikes...it is un-needed. AIS removal is cheap and easy. Get the kit here at the TT store.

http://shop.thumpertalk.com/product_p/int_thumpertalk_aissrk.htm

OR yamaha OEM has a GYTR kit that does the same thing.

The throttle stop is long, open up the throttle body, and remove the stop, cut it to YZ specs, re-install. free mod.

Open up the airbox by removing the snorkel, and cutting open the right side. Im not sure if the 06 have the pre-scribed cutting areas.

find the grey wire and clip it or disconnect it. This will recurve the timing to meet the demands of full throttle.

Open up the exhaust in whatever manner is appropriate, remove baffle, aftermarket endcap, aftermarket slip on silencer, etc.

re-jet the bike using INDY450's jetting chart:

Elevation 0 to 4,000. feet

30 to 45 degrees: 172 main, JD Blue #5, 48 Pilot, 2.0 turns, 75 starter jet, #0 leak jet

45 to 60 degrees: 170 main, JD Blue #4, 48 Pilot, 1.75 turns, 72 starter jet, #0 leak jet

60 to 75 degrees: 168 main, JD Blue #3 or JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.5 turns, 70 starter jet, #40 leak jet

75 to 90 degrees: 165 main, JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.25 turns, 68 starter jet, #50 leak jet

90 degrees plus: 160 main, JD Red #4, 45 Pilot, 2.0 turns, 65 starter jet, #60 leak jet

Elevation 4,000 to 8,000 feet:

30 to 45 degrees: 170 main, JD Blue #4, 48 Pilot, 1.75 turns, 72 starter jet, #0 leak jet

45 to 60 degrees: 168 main, JD Blue #3, 48 Pilot, 1.5 turns, 70 starter jet, #40 leak jet

60 to 75 degrees: 165 main, JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.25 turns, 68 starter jet, #40 leak jet

75 to 90 degrees: 165 main, JD Red #5, 45 Pilot, 2.0 turns, 65 starter jet, #50 leak jet

90 degrees plus: 160 main, JD Red #4, 45 Pilot, 1.75 turns, 65 starter jet, #60 leak jet

Elevation 8,000 to 11,000 feet: ( Note you will loose a lot of power due to altitude but your bike will idle and not foul plugs!)

45 to 60 degrees: 165 main, JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.25 turns, 70 starter jet, #40 leak jet

60 to 75 degrees: 160 main, JD Red #4 , 45 Pilot, 1.75 turns, 68 starter jet, #50 leak jet

75 to 90 degrees: 158 main, JD Red #3, 45 Pilot, 1.5 turns, 65 starter jet, #60 leak jet

and refer to my tutorial when jetting:

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=309069

[ARin]

and use this chart when ordering jets from any OEM site. Zanotti motor is a preferred OEM dealer, and has great prices.

4MX-14943-38-00 .JET, MAIN (#155) AP 1

PILOT JET

4MX-14948-06-00 .JET, SLOW (#48) AP 1

4MX-14948-04-00 .JET, SLOW (#42) STD 1

4MX-14948-05-00 .JET, SLOW (#45) AP 1

4MX-14948-07-00 .JET, SLOW (#50) AP 1

4MX-14948-01-00 .JET, SLOW (#35) AP 1

4MX-14948-02-00 .JET, SLOW (#38) AP 1

4MX-14948-03-00 .JET, SLOW (#40) AP 1

STARTER JET

3TJ-1494F-13-00 .JET (#65) AP 1

3TJ-1494F-12-00 .JET (#62) AP 1

3TJ-1494F-14-00 .JET (#68) AP 1

3TJ-1494F-15-00 .JET (#70) AP 1

3TJ-1494F-16-00 .JET (#72) STD 1

3TJ-1494F-17-00 .JET (#75) AP 1

3TJ-1494F-20-00 .JET (#82) AP 1

3TJ-1494F-18-00 .JET (#78) AP 1

3TJ-1494F-19-00 .JET (#80) AP 1

MAIN AIR JET

5TA-14943-27-00 .JET, MAIN (#100) 1

5TA-14943-15-00 .JET, MAIN (#70)

PILOT AIR JET

7A9-14943-27-00 JET (#100)

7A9-14943-17-00 JET (#75)

LEAK JET

4JT-1494F-19-00 .JET (#80) AP 1

4JT-1494F-15-00 .JET (#70) STD 1

4JT-1494F-23-00 .JET (#90) AP 1

4JT-1494F-03-00 .JET (#40) AP 1

4JT-1494F-07-00 .JET (#50) AP 1

4JT-1494F-11-00 .JET (#60) AP 1

4JT-1494F-27-00 .JET(#100) AP 1

[Matty05]

All you need to do is do all the "free mods" and get an aftermarket muffler.

I would also get a zip-ty fuel mixture screw and a JD jetting kit. Get a 48 pilot jet too.

You can get mufflers pretty cheap, Yamaha's GYT-R ones are great.

you don't need a full system, and don't even bother with the stock muffler.

[marco polo]

What are the stock jets on the 06 WR450F sold in Ca??

Just got one and love the bike, but definetely need to do the mods.

TNX

Marco Polo

[twenty34]

thank you for the reply, this information will be helpful. One question however, can anyone tell me how to fix the issue with the throttle position? I keep hearing about it being restricted to half throttle stock, but I have yet to see how you fix this or any illustrations on what I need to do?

Thanks!

[twenty34]

thanks, can you quickly list waht the "free mods" entail or point me somewhere on how to address them? I'm not sure I fully understand all the "free mods" yet?

Thanks!

[twenty34]

whoa, lots of information here, but THANKS!!!!! I wanted to keep it simple and not have to go thru changing jets after every ride.. Anything simpler that still provides a decent performance increase?

Also, regarding this comment:"The throttle stop is long, open up the throttle body, and remove the stop, cut it to YZ specs, re-install. free mod,"

Is there an illustration of this anywhere? The throttle body on the handle bar or inside the carb? Is the "stop" obvious - i.e. will I know what to look for? YZ specs? Is this published somewhere?

Wow, I thought all of this would be a little less hassle.

[Matty05]

Here mate

http://www.thumperfaq.com/free_mods.htm#WRF

you don't have to change jets every time you go for a ride, just get it right and then don't touch. Sorry but you have to change the jets and needle to get it to run right, especially after you do the free mods. It is easy to do.

You only have to do the airbox mod, grey wire mod and throttle stop mod. Get the AIS removal kit too. Our bikes in Australia don't have AIS.

For the airbox, pull out the snorkle under the seat. Take off the right side numberplate and you can see the airbox. Get a knife and cut out the two indented shapes.

For jetting your bike, order a JD jetting kit and a Zip-ty fuel mixture screw right away!

As for installation of the needle and jets, I have found the easiest way is to undo the airbox boot and remove it from the back of the carby. Undo the front clamp on the rubber joint in front of the carby closest to the motor and pull the carby off the motor.

This will give you enough room to move the carby around to get to the top and bottom.

Read your manual to see what jet is what. You only need to change the pilot jet, main jet, the needle and swap the fuel screw for a Zip-ty adjustable one.

The zip-ty fuel screw is a must, you can't get to the fuel mixture screw as the starter motor is in the way.

Jd jetting kit comes with 2 needles (red and blue) and 4 main jets. you only need to get a 48 pilot jet.

As a starting point, put in a 48 pilot jet, 168 main jet and JD red needle on the 4th clip.

[dbailey223]

I am very happy with the PMB insert for the exhaust after doing the free mods and the JD kit. Noticeable performance increase.

THe throttle stop screw is an allen head screw that stops the throttle part way through its travel. You can either cut it down to the right length to let the throttle move 100% or you can buy the YZ 450 throttle stop screw ($12 or so) and not have to worry about cutting it to the right length. For instructions with pictures, I used the ones on the thumperfaq.com webpage (which is for 250s but applies pretty close to the 450s).

[simon@vic]

re-jet the bike using INDY450's jetting chart:

Elevation 0 to 4,000. feet

30 to 45 degrees: 172 main, JD Blue #5, 48 Pilot, 2.0 turns, 75 starter jet, #0 leak jet

45 to 60 degrees: 170 main, JD Blue #4, 48 Pilot, 1.75 turns, 72 starter jet, #0 leak jet

60 to 75 degrees: 168 main, JD Blue #3 or JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.5 turns, 70 starter jet, #40 leak jet

75 to 90 degrees: 165 main, JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.25 turns, 68 starter jet, #50 leak jet

90 degrees plus: 160 main, JD Red #4, 45 Pilot, 2.0 turns, 65 starter jet, #60 leak jet

Elevation 4,000 to 8,000 feet:

30 to 45 degrees: 170 main, JD Blue #4, 48 Pilot, 1.75 turns, 72 starter jet, #0 leak jet

45 to 60 degrees: 168 main, JD Blue #3, 48 Pilot, 1.5 turns, 70 starter jet, #40 leak jet

60 to 75 degrees: 165 main, JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.25 turns, 68 starter jet, #40 leak jet

75 to 90 degrees: 165 main, JD Red #5, 45 Pilot, 2.0 turns, 65 starter jet, #50 leak jet

90 degrees plus: 160 main, JD Red #4, 45 Pilot, 1.75 turns, 65 starter jet, #60 leak jet

Elevation 8,000 to 11,000 feet: ( Note you will loose a lot of power due to altitude but your bike will idle and not foul plugs!)

45 to 60 degrees: 165 main, JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.25 turns, 70 starter jet, #40 leak jet

60 to 75 degrees: 160 main, JD Red #4 , 45 Pilot, 1.75 turns, 68 starter jet, #50 leak jet

75 to 90 degrees: 158 main, JD Red #3, 45 Pilot, 1.5 turns, 65 starter jet, #60 leak jet

and refer to my tutorial when jetting:

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=309069

????

[simon@vic]

you wont have to change jetting every ride.

do the pipe and free mods then pick the situation that is closest to what you ride in temp and elevation. jet top that and leave it there. temp can go up and down and obviously the bike and you are changing elevation allot too. the above is to get you in the right range.

[BajaFool]

Rickk,

Go to your friendly, neighborhood Yamaha dealer. Purchase a Yamaha GYT-R AIS Removal Kit, P/N GYT-5TJ93-69-00 for $39.95. I'd ask for a discount because every 2005 and 2006 WR450F should come with this kit as part of the sale. The kit contains all of the instructions you will need to remove the AIS. remove the airbox snorkle, cut holes in the right-hand side of the airbox, disconnect the grey wire, install new parts in the carburetor and remove the restricter from the muffler. Included in the kit are the blank off caps for the AIS fittings, a new YZ throttle stop to replace the long WR throttle stop that is located in the right-hand rear side of the carburetor behind an "L" shaped metal cover held on by two allen head bolts. The long WR throttle stop is what prevents the carburetor slide from opening fully. Also included in the kit are a bigger pilot and main jet and a new adjustable needle. ALL of these mods should be incorporated, if you want your new ride to perform up to its potential. Most of these are called the "free mods" because in this forum are discussions of how to disconnect the grey wire, how and where to cut the holes in the air box, how to remove the snorkle and muffler restricter, the length to which the WR throttle stop should be cut to equal the length of the YZ throttle stop (saves money) and the size of the two new jets you need to install in the carburetor, which are a #48 Pilot Jet and a #168 Main Jet. These jets can be accessed through the drain fitting on the bottom of the carburetor, but it is easier to take the float bowl off for access. When you change the jets, turn the fuel mixture screw out two full turns. Sorry, but I don't have the number of the replacement needle at hand, the clip goes in the 4th notch, however.

If you do all of these mods, your bike will be transformed. The new jetting should be good for sea level to 5,000 - 6,000Ft and to 10,000Ft+ on an occasional basis (it won't run great at that altitude, but it will be adequate). If you ride regularly at over 5,000 - 6,000 Ft, leave the stock jets in the bike, leave the fuel mixture screw turned out 1 1/2 turns and don't change the needle clip, it should run just fine that way.

[hankdog]

Just picked up a new 2006 WR 450 and it seems sluggish so I'm looking for suggestions. I'd like to keep it relatively stock and find out what I can do to remove/add to help get better performance.

Any suggestions that are cost effective would be appreciated.

Thanks!

RickK

RickK...I second the recommendations from BajaFool. You don't have to spend a lot of $$ to get the WR to perform well. My dealer sold me the Yamaha AIS removal kit for about $32.00 as I recall...that qualifies as "cost effective" in my book. The instructions included were worth the price alone. You can do this work in an evening with some basic tools and some basic mechanical skills and a little patience. If you have any specific questions in the middle of the operation, just get back on TT and someone will be able to help. There is a tremendous amount of good information here, and good people always willing to help - I myself was asking the same questions here just a few months ago. Now, I'm having a blast with my WR and I'm very happy with it's performance

[twenty34]

You guys Rock!...Thanks much you guys and BajaFool especially. I bought the AIS removal kit today - should have it in a few days. Also picked up the Pro Moto Billet Insert. These are all pretty cost effective so I now understand the defination of "free-mods". Can't wait to get them all installed.

Again, thanks to all that replied. I really appreciate the warm reception guys!...All I can say is watch out for my roost now!

[twenty34]

for all your help on this.

[DaveGeorge]

posted this to other thread... sorry if your read it twice.

Cheap AIS Removal. Pull it off. The exhaust port pipe is steel and can be tapped with an 1/8" pipe tap. A shoulderless pipe plug will screw right in. You should consider this a permanent fix. I put mine in with some red loctite. JB Weld would be even more permanent. A vacuum cap will plug the other end. I safety wired mine on because I'm paranoid about things falling off.

After the AIS is out of the way, the Throttle Stop Screw is easier to see and reach. The stock YZ throttle stop screw measures 18.2mm from shoulder to tip. You cut approx. 12mm off the stock WR screw.

I'm still hacking on the stock exhaust. I will do some more testing this weekend.

Dave