stripped head on oil drain plug


15 replies to this topic
  • gobigblue

Posted November 27, 2005 - 08:20 PM

#1

anybody have any advice on getting a stripped oil drain bolt out? It is a zip ty plug which I think is aluminum and is very soft. head is completely rounded and a corner is broken off. vise grips just grind off more of the head. would it best to use an easy out or tap it? HELP!!!!!!

  • Flooder305

Posted November 27, 2005 - 08:58 PM

#2

Pre-drill and ez-out it... Piece of cake..... If you don't have an ez-out handy, the pointy end of a mill bastard does almost as well, especially if the aluminum is soft.... Have fun...

  • TWR

Posted November 27, 2005 - 09:17 PM

#3

This same thing happened to me about a month ago. I used a throw away 12 point socket and tapped it on with a brass punch and hammer. Carefully turned and it came out. Maybe I was lucky.

  • NavyNuke

Posted November 27, 2005 - 09:37 PM

#4

or grind two parallel flat surfaces on the stripped nut, then take a crescent wrench to it. if that dosn't work, predrill and easy out.

  • tshe1

Posted November 27, 2005 - 09:50 PM

#5

anybody have any advice on getting a stripped oil drain bolt out? It is a zip ty plug which I think is aluminum and is very soft. head is completely rounded and a corner is broken off. vise grips just grind off more of the head. would it best to use an easy out or tap it? HELP!!!!!!

heapend to me twice.
the easy way us to lay your bike, take flat chisel and hammer and punch it from the side.
it will be open for sure but you have to replace the drain bolt.
drill it and tap it out can cause chips going into your gear and engine.

  • gobigblue

Posted November 27, 2005 - 10:43 PM

#6

thanks for the advice guys. I will be attempting the easy out option her in the next couple of days. new plug and oil are in hand ready to be changed.

  • WheelsUp

Posted November 27, 2005 - 11:03 PM

#7

Always use a 6-point socket on these aluminum aftermarket plugs.

  • beakr

Posted November 28, 2005 - 07:31 AM

#8

If you are going to drill it out, it is a good idea to use a reverse drill bit. You can get them at specialty tool stores, and sometimes auto parts stores. It is the same as a regular drill bit, but it cuts when you drill in reverse instead of forward. Put a lot of pressure on it as you drill and most of the time, it will catch and turn the bolt out for you, slick as a whistle. :applause:

If it doesn't catch hard enough to spin the bolt out, worst-case is now you have a hole in the bolt to use your easy-out in.

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  • Dan_Lorenze

Posted November 28, 2005 - 09:00 AM

#9

All great advice here.. I would try what NavyNuke suggested first, but get a heat gun and really heat the hell out of it while you do it!! My heat gun has got me out of many jams before.. It will get it out....

Dan :applause:

  • Flooder305

Posted November 28, 2005 - 02:11 PM

#10

Just one other point, like tshe1 mentioned, when you pre-drill, don't go all the way through the plug into the case, only enough for the ez-out to bite. Also that reverse bit idea sounds bueno....

  • WheelsUp

Posted November 28, 2005 - 05:00 PM

#11

Just occurred to me... don't come anywhere NEAR drilling all the way through.
You've got a magnet on the inside of that bolt, and if you drill through the chips from the magnet are going to attach themselves to parts of the engine that should not have magnet chips attached.

If you drill it and find that you went too far and broke ANY part of the magnet on the inside, you need to save what's left, split the case, fish out the pieces, and put the "magnet puzzle" back together to make sure that nothing is left in there.

  • gobigblue

Posted November 29, 2005 - 08:25 AM

#12

tried to use an easy out last night after drilling pilot hole but the thing would just spin in the hole and not bite to get it to turn. should I just keep going and try to get it to bite or try another method? also tried to file 2 sides down, warm it up but could not get the crescent wrench on it to try and twist it. getting nervous here about not getting it out and paying someone $$$$$$$ to do it for me. any suggestions???????

  • Dan_Lorenze

Posted November 29, 2005 - 09:04 AM

#13

Try the next size bigger ezout.....

  • Flooder305

Posted November 29, 2005 - 10:00 AM

#14

DON'T PAY! That's exactly what the shops want at $70+/hr..... Is the ez-out you're using hitting the bottom of the pilot hole? If it isn't, you're not getting enough of the ez-out into the hole to make a good bite. Possibly try a slightly larger diameter pilot hole. Or like Dan said the next size larger ez-out.

One other option... If you have a tap and die set, tap your pilot hole with left-hand threads. Then go find a left hand threaded bolt and sink it into your drain bolt, then when that bolt tightens, you're working out your drain bolt. Key here is to make STRONG left-hand threads so you can get some torque on it...

  • BEAN329

Posted November 29, 2005 - 08:47 PM

#15

Did I see a tool at sears that looks like a socket but bites a bolt when you turn it to the left. Be very careful you are on the edge. If you have the replacement drain bolt use it to gauge how deep you can drill out the one in your bike. I would be willing to waste your replacement just to make sure you do drop that magnet inside your engine. Good Luck :applause:

  • Punisher660

Posted November 30, 2005 - 08:26 AM

#16

BEAN is right on the money. Go to sears and get the socket tool. It looks like a socket, but has a funkey reverse grip. It is designed for exactly this purpose, the more you turn to the left, the tighter it grips. Its basically an e-z- out for nuts or bolts with a head on them.




 
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