fok oil seals


8 replies to this topic
  • SBRacing

Posted November 20, 2005 - 04:38 PM

#1

I'm about to replace my leaky oil seals any tips or things to look out for I should know about..Its been awhile but I have done them in the past on my old 96 Rm 250 but I want to make sure I do it right on my 04 450
Thanx Craig

  • grayracer513

Posted November 20, 2005 - 05:20 PM

#2

Here's a step-by-step with pictures:

http://www.thumperfa.../fork_seals.htm

Look for scratches and nicks that you can feel with a fingernail. Some pretty small stuff can cause a new seal to leak. Sand them out with 240 grit (or so) wet/dry in a cross hatch pattern. don't worry about the finish on the tubes. the normal fork operation will restore that in a while.

  • SBRacing

Posted November 20, 2005 - 05:48 PM

#3

thanx man

  • Matt96xr6

Posted November 20, 2005 - 06:47 PM

#4

http://motocross.com...ork/kybfrk.html

That link is helpful on the single chamber units. Be sure you have the fork seal drivers for the 48mm forks. THey run about 40-60 just for the tool.

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  • SBRacing

Posted November 20, 2005 - 07:13 PM

#5

Man I don't think I'm up to do this ..What whould it cost to have them done?

  • freekstyle

Posted November 20, 2005 - 08:41 PM

#6

Man I don't think I'm up to do this ..What whould it cost to have them done?


You will pay a lot to have it done, or you can take your time and do it yourself for much less. I just replaced my seals on my 03. I used the guide posted by gray and my bike manual for the specs. It really is'nt as hard as it seems.

The only things from the post I would like to add would be:

1. For my 03, and I think the 04 is the same, you will need a 14mm hex tool to remove the base valve. I used a grade 8 bolt with two nuts tightend together for this and it worked fine. I looked for a "real" tool for this but could not find one.

2. I could not get the gas line castle nut tool to work out for me. I used a piece of PVC pipe and cut the end with a utility knife. It worked great.

Hope this helps.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 20, 2005 - 09:17 PM

#7

You do not have to remove the dampers or the base valve to do a simple seal replacement. Just remove the springs and knock out the seals. It does make a better job to remove the valve, because it lets you clean it up more thoroughly, but it is not required at all. Most shops that will charge you $125 to $200 are not going to remove the base valves for that kind of money, anyway.

  • lumpy790

Posted November 21, 2005 - 05:17 AM

#8

You will pay a lot to have it done, or you can take your time and do it yourself for much less. I just replaced my seals on my 03. I used the guide posted by gray and my bike manual for the specs. It really is'nt as hard as it seems.

The only things from the post I would like to add would be:

1. For my 03, and I think the 04 is the same, you will need a 14mm hex tool to remove the base valve. I used a grade 8 bolt with two nuts tightend together for this and it worked fine. I looked for a "real" tool for this but could not find one.

2. I could not get the gas line castle nut tool to work out for me. I used a piece of PVC pipe and cut the end with a utility knife. It worked great.

Hope this helps.



Sears, Snap-on, Mac ect sells the 14mm 1/2 drive allen socket

  • rf2

Posted November 22, 2005 - 02:34 PM

#9

Which seals have to be changed, would just lower seals do it?





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