Scotts Steering Damper setup advice
Posted November 18, 2005 - 01:29 PM
Posted November 18, 2005 - 02:10 PM
Posted November 18, 2005 - 03:34 PM
CLOCKWISE equals more damping.
This valving circuit is designed to help absorb large, unexpected hits, such as a hidden tree root or pot hole. It reacts to spikes that exceed your current base valve setting. The high speed valve is pre-set from the factory. They recommend you leave it alone until you have some experience with your stabilizer. Start at easy settings (2 turns out) and gradually work into your desired setting. Warning: Do not adjust this valve too stiff, it can limit your steering response time. By turning the high speed valve (CLOCKWISE) you will increase the moment at which the high speed will react and its intensity of energy absorbtion. The high speed valve has less effect as you turn the base valve setting stiffer. Conversely, it has more effect as you turn the base valve softer. To test the effect of the High Speed Valve, turn the base valve off. Then select a section of road or trail that you know well, that has obstacles you’d like to test. Gradually adjust the High Speed valve stiffer, one quarter turn at a time, to feel it’s effect on each pass of this well-known trail or roadway. The high speed valve is not found on any other stabilizer and is a serious advantage once you learn how it works.
Do not try to test the high speed valve while the bike is on the stand.
Posted December 27, 2005 - 11:50 AM
What do you like best for ruts?
what do you like best for sand?
Posted December 27, 2005 - 12:50 PM
In deep sand I will turn up the slow speed way up to to 12 clicks and turn down the high speed to 6 - quarter turns. Keeps the front end from knifing under.
In roots and rocks at low speeds I run the low speed at 4 clicks and high speed at 10 or 12 quarter turns out. Takes big hits on the bark busters but wont wear you out in tight stuff.