Rekluse and hard shifting


24 replies to this topic
  • LJ

Posted November 14, 2005 - 08:56 AM

#1

I just got done installing the Rekluse with the perch adjuster (clutch over-ride) in my '99 YZ 400 and took it for a quick run down the street and back just to make sure it was okay before I went out to the local riding spot.

One thing I noticed was it was hard to shift between 1st and 2nd. I was wearing tennis shoes and I was on the street, so maybe that's why it felt a little notchy.

I adjusted the perch adjuster per the instructions: reved the engine past 4500 rpms and adjusted the clutch lever adjuster so there was about .5" of travel at the end of the lever. The clutch doesn't drag and seemed to work pretty good accept the hard shifting.

Anybody noticed hard shifting with their Rekluse?

Thanks for the replies!

  • ncmountainman

Posted November 14, 2005 - 12:41 PM

#2

it can make for notchy shifting,especially if the rpm's are still above the engagement point. i try to pull the clutch(override) a little when shifting if i can. :applause: and i hope you mean .15"!

  • yamaharichey

Posted November 14, 2005 - 12:43 PM

#3

I just installed one on my 06 YZ250. Its hard to shift if you are decelerating, start putting pessure on the shifter before you let off the gas, then at the same time you let off the gas click it into second. It takes a little getting used to but once you get the hang of it it takes just a slight blip of the throttle. Hope that makes sense. P.S. Good luck finding neutral while you are stopped.

  • LJ

Posted November 14, 2005 - 01:08 PM

#4

Nope, I mean .5", it shows that in the instructions. In otherwords, the clutch lever should have about .5" free travel at the end of the lever before you start feeling any significant pressure of the clutch (at 4500 rpms or higher).

Are you saying it should be .15" at the end of the lever???

  • ncmountainman

Posted November 14, 2005 - 01:22 PM

#5

a nickels width is what i was told and what i've been running trouble free for way over a year. the measure is the distance between the perch and the lever before you feel resistance(disengagement) @ high rpm. that might be the trouble :applause: but it sounds like you mean at the end of the lever which might be 1/2" :ride:

  • LJ

Posted November 14, 2005 - 01:40 PM

#6

Yep, I mean at the end of the lever, I think they have changed the directions for the perch adjuster. I looked on the rekluse web site and those directions do as you describe, but on my directions it shows it at the end of the lever. I like the old way better since I cut the end of my lever off to fit better within my bark buster hand guard.

I talked to Rekluse about this (just got off the phone) and they pointed out that I need to disengage the torsion spring on the clutch arm going into the engine case. I totally missed that one, so I'll do that when I get home from work.

He also said I need to brake it in because I also have a brand new clutch installed also. He said things have to seat down.

I'll give an update after I break it in.

Thanks for input guys!

  • SXP

Posted November 14, 2005 - 07:06 PM

#7

I talked to Rekluse about this (just got off the phone) and they pointed out that I need to disengage the torsion spring on the clutch arm going into the engine case. I totally missed that one, so I'll do that when I get home from work.


Hey LJ - I have the Rekluse in my 99 WR400 and I just re-read the instructions for both the clutch and perch adjuster and don't see anything about removing the spring on the clutch arm. I have about 300 miles on the bike with no issues with it connected. I do see some mention of removing the spring if you are not using the clutch override/perch adjuster, but the instructions have you skip this section if installing the perch adjuster. Any difference in how the bike shifts with it removed?

BTW, the bike upshifts smoothly, but I NEVER downshift without pulling in the clutch.

  • 642MX

Posted November 14, 2005 - 07:18 PM

#8

Hey LJ - I have the Rekluse in my 99 WR400 and I just re-read the instructions for both the clutch and perch adjuster and don't see anything about removing the spring on the clutch arm.




Look at step number 1. :applause: Its important to read ALL the directions more than once before installing an autoclutch.

  • yamaharichey

Posted November 14, 2005 - 07:23 PM

#9

I had the same question, they don't make it very clear. I called them Friday he said you unhook the spring off the clutch arm either way, the spring on the perch ajuster takes the place of the one on the arm, same thing with the spring that you attach to the arm it takes the place of the stock spring.

  • SXP

Posted November 14, 2005 - 07:50 PM

#10

Look at step number 1. :applause: Its important to read ALL the directions more than once before installing an autoclutch.


No Shite! I've looked at Step 1 in both the clutch instructions and the perch instructions that came with the kit. NOTHING about removing the spring on the clutch arm (except where I stated in my original post - they have you skip this step if installing the perch adjuster). :ride: :p

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  • SXP

Posted November 14, 2005 - 07:59 PM

#11

Just went out and disconnected the clutch arm spring. The clutch engages quicker and there is now more creep when stopped and in gear. Time to play with the perch adjuster. Shifting feels the same.

  • LJ

Posted November 15, 2005 - 08:30 AM

#12

I looked at the instructions after I got home from work and just like SXP said, there is nothing about disconnecting the torsion spring on the clutch arm on the crankcase in the first step.

In the instructions that came with THIS clutch, it said that if you are installing the perch adjuster, go to those seperate instructions which don't say anything about removing the torsion spring. However, if continue with the clutch install instructions as if you are not installing the perch adjuster, the next step is to remove the torsion spring. Since I was installing the perch adjuster, I just skipped that part of the instructions.

I'm going to call Rekluse today and make sure this isn't an error an their part.

  • 642MX

Posted November 15, 2005 - 10:33 AM

#13

I looked at the instructions after I got home from work and just like SXP said, there is nothing about disconnecting the torsion spring on the clutch arm on the crankcase in the first step.

In the instructions that came with THIS clutch, it said that if you are installing the perch adjuster, go to those seperate instructions which don't say anything about removing the torsion spring. However, if continue with the clutch install instructions as if you are not installing the perch adjuster, the next step is to remove the torsion spring. Since I was installing the perch adjuster, I just skipped that part of the instructions.

I'm going to call Rekluse today and make sure this isn't an error an their part.



I have instructions for a 426, maybe they are different for the 400's and 450's. But in my instructions sent with the clutch show that step 1 is to remove the spring. Maybe the instructions have been revised since I got my autoclutch. If any of you would like to see my instructions, I'll try to find them and fax them to you all.

  • ncmountainman

Posted November 15, 2005 - 10:45 AM

#14

that was in my instructions also :applause: 642mx how do you like those 952's,particularly offroad if you do any?

  • 642MX

Posted November 15, 2005 - 11:08 AM

#15

Step number 1 is clearly written in there instructions on there website. Heres the link. click here

  • 642MX

Posted November 15, 2005 - 11:13 AM

#16

that was in my instructions also :applause: 642mx how do you like those 952's,particularly offroad if you do any?




I really like the 952's they seem to be holding up quite well. I ride 50/50 trails and MX. I'd buy another set.

  • LJ

Posted November 15, 2005 - 11:36 AM

#17

Yep, they changed the instructions.

  • eazrider

Posted November 15, 2005 - 11:40 AM

#18

I notice absolutely no difference in shifting, either up or down, after installing the Rekluse in my '04 450...it is a little bashful about finding neutral after stopping, though.

  • SBRacing

Posted November 15, 2005 - 02:59 PM

#19

OK should the arm spring be on or off on a 03 450? its on and works fine should it be off? its my friends bike and I left it on when I did his Rekluse

  • ncmountainman

Posted November 15, 2005 - 03:26 PM

#20

OFF definately OFF,it'll offer more spring resistance on engagement making it engage slower (slip more)





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