WER steering damper, how do you service it?

7 replies to this topic
  • Matty05

Posted November 06, 2005 - 05:26 PM


I picked up a WER damper from a mate off his old YZ250F.

His manual got wet and now is unreadable. I want to change the oil in it as it is about 4 years old and I lost some out of it.

The damper has not been used that much and is in new condition but I was checking it out to see if I could get the air out of it and took out the screw on top, moved the arm and squirted oil up my nose. :banghead:

  • bigdrtrdr

Posted November 06, 2005 - 06:33 PM


I think they have a PDF file you can download.

  • Matty05

Posted November 06, 2005 - 08:05 PM


I've looked but cannot find. I wrote them an email but no reply.


Posted November 06, 2005 - 09:51 PM


I just did two today.
Take the dampner off the bike but leave the mount plate attached to the dampner.. Place the mount plate in a vice with the adjustment screw side canted down. The bleed screw should be on the hight side.
Unscrew both the adjustment screw and the bleed screw and take them out then take 5w fork oil in a small bottle with a tip on it small enough to fit in the hole that the adjustment screw came out of.

The bottle should hold at least 6 oz.
Making sure that you dont add air to the dampner begin dropping oil into the adjustment hole then put the tip inside the hole and squeeze until oil begins coming out of the adjustment hole. Then slowly--very slowly, begin moving the shaft. you will notice that at certain points the oil will come out of the bleed hole faster and slower. Make sure that it does not suck air inside the bleed hole, if so you are moving it too fast. After the oil begins coming out clear/without small bubbles put the adjustment screw back in and screw it in. then put the bleed screw back in and then turn the shaft vigourasly numerous times.

Then take out the bleed screw again.
The point here is to let bubbles/air inside the damper escape through the highest point. Remember the bleed screw should be higher than the adjustment screw. Then take out the adjustment screw and repeat until no more small bubbles escape. ( It took me 3-5 times to get it good and clear)
I found that it was very important that you do not turn the shaft fast while you ar filling with oil. It is the same principle as bleeding the brakes and putting pressure on the lever when the bleed valve is open. You can still suck in air.
After you are finished you should not hear a cracking noise when the shaft is turned and when you adjust it you can feal tension.
Remeber the adjustment screw should not be turned out more than two turns while making adjustments.
Good luck.
The guys at W.E.R. will help you out. They are very helpful on the phone.

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  • Matty05

Posted November 07, 2005 - 11:04 PM



Thanks a million. :banghead:

  • ncmountainman

Posted November 08, 2005 - 04:48 AM


when i did mine i filled it as tarfele said but then filled a small basin full of 2 qts fluid and submerged the whole thing for the bleeding process. just pumped it back and forth until no more bubbles and put the screws in while still under the oil :banghead:


Posted November 08, 2005 - 05:58 AM


WELL, Mountainman, where were you when I did mine? I am tempted to take mine off and do it all over again. That is the best idea I have heard on this forum. Thanks

  • Bojak

Posted April 10, 2010 - 01:34 PM


I'm posting a little late, but I stumbled upon this while I was trying to figure out how to change my damper oil. lol Thanks a bunch "TARFELE" for the quick how too! What I used to change the oil is I attached some carburetor vent line to a syringe (originally designed for brake bleeding). I used it to inject the oil into the damper openings. It actually seems to have worked pretty well!!! I'm not sure if any air got into it, but it seems to have pushed all of the old oil through and out the other end. It definitely stiffened up the damping! :thumbsup:


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