DR-Z125 & RM100 Conversion project
Posted 18 January 2010 - 07:06 AM
I didn't use any washers yet, it is very stiff so it's probably not needed, but I will be adding them to keep the dust seals in place. It looks like it's going to be quite a bit of washers.
Things we noticed. The stock length chain doesn't work at all. We're waiting on new sprockets, cause the old ones are pretty well shot, I'm not going to put a new chain on worn out sprockets.
Seat height from the non-L DR-Z125 to the KX suspension is from 31 to 32.5, doesn't seem like a lot, but it is when you sit on it.
Our parts had been left out in the elements for some time, this isn't much of a problem, except for the swing arm adjusters. One came out, barely, the other broke off. We noticed this after installing the swing arm. Which is unfortunate, because it's much easier to fix this problem (busted stud) if the swing arm is off the bike. I'm going to try a lot of PB Blaster and either an easy-out or perhaps cutting a slot for a lotted screw driver, but I fear I'll need to drill and re-tap it which will be a pain.
Another thing I noted is you'll need to mix and match the parts that connect the shock to the swing arm, the KX uni-track suspension arm (big L shaped piece) won't work in the DR-Z frame. I'm not sure if that was mentioned or not.
Hang-ups I had, which hopefully you don't:
The roller bearings were not packed with foam or anything else to keep them intact during shipping/pressing. Of course, that means mine decided to come out. Fortunately, I was able re-insert them with my finger. I recommend packing the bearings with grease to keep them in place if this is the case for you.
One of my swing arm roller bearing sleeves from All Balls was wrong. I plan to contact them and find out what happened. As luck would have it, the DR-Z's sleeve from the bushing is a direct fit.
Every last fastener was either installed with super gorilla torque or good old PA mud and junk got in the threads and got them tight as a drum. This wasn't too much of a problem since we used an air impact wrench to remove them, but the ones where the gun wouldn't fit were a royal pain. If I had to do it again, I'd PB Blaster every fastener the night before doing the job.
Photos will be up once the sprockets arrive.
Posted 19 January 2010 - 04:37 PM
ryanmxrdr said:
Ryan
I am sorry, but I don't remember. I don't have the bike anymore, so I can't check on it for you.
Posted 20 January 2010 - 08:51 PM
dr_drz said:
Thanks, your already more help just by posting this post. I'll get it figured out
Posted 06 April 2010 - 03:38 PM
Posted 10 April 2010 - 06:28 AM
Posted 12 April 2010 - 05:20 AM
Posted 26 October 2010 - 05:07 PM
Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:28 AM
One problem right off the bat would be the DR-Z uses a larger diameter swing arm bolt than the KX does which would need to be addressed.
Lucky for you, the DR-Z cases are narrower where the bolt runs through than the KX is.
You'd need to fabricate some motor mounts, possibly air-box or boot modification.
Then, once you've done all that, you pray the gas tank still mounts up.
Let us know how it goes.
Posted 08 March 2011 - 09:09 AM
Cigrettman said:
Its probably easier to do the classic KX Suspension onto the DRZ frame mod... I'm betting you wont see that much better handling using the complete KX bike.
Posted 20 March 2011 - 09:01 AM
Posted 19 May 2011 - 06:26 AM
v/r
Posted 27 January 2012 - 12:24 AM
I have machined the KX swing arm to fit the stock DRZ bushings. This uses the stock DRZ inner collar spacers wich are the correct / stock width between the DRZ case and DRZ frame. The KX swing arm is (12mm - 14mm) narrower (overall width) on the right side at the swing pivot / frame mounting bolt. Also the inside of the KX swing arm is about 4mm -5mm wider the the DRZ engine cases on each side. The KX has a steel linkage bracket that connects the swing arm pivot to the triangle mount at the lower frame. If I were to motocross or seriously jump the DRZ I would fabricate the DRZ frame to incorperate the KX mount hardware and linkage (swingarm to lower mount) to the DRZ frame.
To avoid fabricating a wider lower frame mount (Just below rear engine caseing) I used the DRZ (lower suspension) triangle link as the KX was too wide for the DRZ frame mount (with out modifications). I think the slight difference in lower triangle length may change the calculated spring rate. (Shorter / less leverage = stiffer right)
Now with the KX swing arm and rear wheel bolted up the KX lower swing arm shackle that bolts from the bottom of the KX swing arm to the middle of the DRZ lower suspension triangle is just 1/8" or so too narrow on the left side. Right side has correct alignment but the left side need to be spaced out just slightly 1/8" or so (add a washer) on the bottom at the right side lower swing arm link mount.
Posted 29 January 2012 - 05:39 PM
KX 100 Swing Arm Spacer MONEY SHOT
Chain side swing arm sapcer Swing Arm to Engine Case.

Brake side Swing Arm Spacers (2)
Engine case to Swing Arm and Swing Arm to Frame.

All spacers are cut from thick wall PVC plastic electrical conduit.
Engine case is held steadfast to frame with swing arm bolt and inner bushing spacers. PVC is just to guide the swing arm ~ THe shock and linkage is the main centering device.
Edited by mbwhitfi, 29 January 2012 - 05:54 PM.
Posted 01 February 2012 - 04:50 PM
Posted 08 February 2012 - 07:05 AM
dr_drz, on 27 May 2009 - 04:28 AM, said:


The only machining was to put the DR-Z bearings in the KX100 swingarm. That was only a small amount of boring. A good machinist should be able to measure the bearings and do the boring.
You do not need to change the rear swingarm. There are numerous projects on this forum that use the original swingarm.
The KX aluminium brake pedal is also not usauble with out tons of rework/fab. THe DRZ pedal is stamped steel and easy to weld fab into what I need.
I chopped the factory KX frame mount for the brake MC bracket off. The KX bracket in place on the DRZ frame runs the MC too close to the exhaust bracket. Stepping it outside teh bracket will bring it in the way of the riders boot. I may have to look into an unconventional design maybe canting the MC at an angle rear ward to eleviate the exhaust bracket interfearance.
Posted 13 July 2012 - 05:42 AM
Jmacsellnu, on 06 April 2010 - 03:38 PM, said:
Posted 06 April 2013 - 12:05 PM
Edited by Mingledbones, 06 April 2013 - 12:23 PM.
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