WR426 - Initial Setup



10 replies to this topic
  • darbsitton

Posted December 28, 2000 - 06:43 AM

#1

Just got my 2001 WR426 and this website is helping make it much better.

Similarities to earlier models:
1) Need to shorten "Throttle Stop Screw" by about 8mm.
2) Removed exhaust restrictor. Bike is much louder :)
3) Airbox is very restrictive, removed top.

Questions I have:
1) I'm looking to quieten the bike down without sacrificing too much power. Any suggestions? Would love to see noise measurements vs. horsepower information.
2) Tips, tricks, or cool tools for removing the spark plug? Right now it looks like the tank must be lifted to get access.
3) Airbox doesn't have a drain in the bottom. I'm going to put a one way check valve in. Any suggestions?


------------------
--Brad

  • Michael

Posted December 28, 2000 - 09:24 AM

#2

I guess I can't help with your question - 1) because I haven't picked my mount up yet and 2)I'm a newbie to this forum, so I can't even "share" information yet.

However - I noticed you are in Santa Clara and just got your bike.....where did you buy it? I have been on a list (a shop in San Jose) since before Thanksgiving and don't have a delivery date yet.

Your topic is of obvious interest to me - and information about availability is always helpful. Thanks for any input!

  • Michael

Posted December 28, 2000 - 11:06 AM

#3

After thinking about it, there are a few things that I'm ready to do when mine gets here:

1) Frame guards (silly really, but I hate to wear the paint off the sides of the frame)
2) Radiator supports
3) Reusable stainless oil filter
4) Rear disc guard (maybe I just crash too much)
5) White Bros. Exhaust (saves a lot of weight - quieter than stock with the restrictor removed - my brother has one on his)

I'd like to find some roost protector/bark busters that were light weight and fit around the front brake cylinder.

What is it with the "throttle stop"? Why did Yamaha add that?

  • darbsitton

Posted December 28, 2000 - 09:38 PM

#4

Found my bike in Carson City NV. Sent them a check an hour later. Had one guy in parking lot and different guy at local gas station walk up to me and say they had tried to buy the bike. I figured it was best to get out of town fast :)

------------------
--Brad

  • Michael

Posted December 28, 2000 - 10:32 PM

#5

I found one (thanks to this forum) in Sacramento today. I pick it up tomorrow. Very cool!

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  • bajades

Posted December 29, 2000 - 03:10 PM

#6

Baja Designs has a replacement baffle for the stock unit with three times the flow area. It preserves the power but cut noise from 100 db to 94 db in the 20 in. stationary test.

Originally posted by darbsitton:
Just got my 2001 WR426 and this website is helping make it much better.

Similarities to earlier models:
1) Need to shorten "Throttle Stop Screw" by about 8mm.
2) Removed exhaust restrictor. Bike is much louder :)
3) Airbox is very restrictive, removed top.

Questions I have:
1) I'm looking to quieten the bike down without sacrificing too much power. Any suggestions? Would love to see noise measurements vs. horsepower information.
2) Tips, tricks, or cool tools for removing the spark plug? Right now it looks like the tank must be lifted to get access.
3) Airbox doesn't have a drain in the bottom. I'm going to put a one way check valve in. Any suggestions?




  • darbsitton

Posted December 30, 2000 - 02:29 AM

#7

Do you have a particular model in mind? Baja designs website shows several options. I would prefer the quieter side.

Originally posted by bajades:
Baja Designs has a replacement baffle for the stock unit with three times the flow area. It preserves the power but cut noise from 100 db to 94 db in the 20 in. stationary test.



  • mcarp

Posted December 30, 2000 - 11:31 PM

#8

Welcome to the club...

Exhausts are probably the hardest thing to comment on. Personally I run a WB tapered header w/ stock YZ can on my '00. Love the power everywhere, it's quiet when just poking around, but pretty loud otherwise.

Here's a few more tips--

- No tips on the spark plug. If it doesn't fire up after 10 kicks, replace it. Turn off your gas and drain your carb after each ride to prevent flooding while towing.

-On the bottom left airbox, replace the closed off clear line with a longer line running downward. Or just cut/remove the stock fitting. A one-way check valve would be useless, this fitting is still on the "dirty side" of the airstream. It will just clog up-

-Reroute the breather hose (left side, lower frame rail front of engine) to the airbox area
- Get your tools out and plan a few days in the garage. Everything (steering head, wheel bearings, swingarm, linkage) needs greasing (Yamaha apparently never heard of it) :) Really, everything is practically bone dry so take the time and do just do it.

- The stock bars, chain and tires (for mud) just plain stink. Your chain will be shot after 100 miles so why ruin the very nice sprockets too-get a new chain. I replaced the steel bars immediately. Try to get a high bend if your're tall.

-Changing gear ratios have helped a lot of us dial in the power to speed/rpm. For slow terrain, try a 13/50 combo first (just change the front to 13). I eventually went to 14/51 , just a tad too tall for extremely tight trail work, but great for everything else from 8 to 75mph

-Raise the forks in your triple clamps about 10mm. Turn forks so bleed screws are accessible. Retighten to spec exactly. This helps this concrete truck, I mean WR turn quicker. Don't worry about headshake unless you're riding over 70mpg or in sand. I raised mine 12 mm which is about the most you can go, but I use the Scotts damper

-Visually check your carb slide clearance while grinding down the throttle stop. Or just by the YZ426 throttle stop part to avoid this hastle.

- Stock jetting has been lean in the past. If you notice lean symptoms (weird idle, surging, pipe glows at idle, engine feel hot, squeeling sound, low power) etc. Turn the fuel screw out a little and ask lot's of questions.

- Spokes are loose. That wrench in the toolkit it there for a reason. Tighten them all about 3 separate occasions during the first 250 miles, then maybe once a year after that.

-Change the oil VERY often durin the first 75 miles. 5 times by then should be good. Don't worry about metal flakes the first few times, that's normal. After 4 changes no more metal particles should be present. The stock filter is cleanable and reusable :D.

That's about all I can think of at the moment beyond "think about YZ timing".

Good luck. The most problems you'll have it jetting. Ask questions about it before you make drastic changes, although changing the pilot jet to 45 or 48 along with fuel screw adjustments seem to be standard fare. Others are changing needles and main jets by the dozens dialing in the power.

  • darbsitton

Posted December 31, 2000 - 01:04 PM

#9

Thanks mcarp.

Also found the air cleaner needs to be oiled before first ride, and looks really cheap.

  • GRC

Posted December 31, 2000 - 05:42 PM

#10

Darbsitton,
If you bought your new bike from the shop in Carson City that starts with a "M", and is the local Yamaha shop. Beware, go over it with a fine tooth comb and check everything twice. Trust me on this one I bought a bike from them and you would not believe the stuff on it that was either loose or not put on correctly. Let me know what all you find it should be rather interesting.

[This message has been edited by GRC (edited 12-31-2000).]

[This message has been edited by GRC (edited 12-31-2000).]

  • Michael

Posted January 01, 2001 - 01:26 PM

#11

What oil are you all using? Do you use Dino or synthetic - and if synthetic, when did you make the switch?

Thanks!




 
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