Quick Oil Change questions.


11 replies to this topic
  • Taewa

Posted October 07, 2005 - 09:33 AM

#1

I got a '99 WR 400, and I am about to do the first oil change on my own. Looking at the manual I noticed it recommends removing about 3 or 4 different drain bolts. Do I really need to remove them all? Should I follow the exact order of the manual in doing so? Thanks in advance.

  • WGP

Posted October 07, 2005 - 11:15 AM

#2

Always , Always, Always follow the manual :banghead:

They built that machine and know what it takes to properly maintain it.

Then you will never have to start a thread "blew up my bike??"

  • SJMC_DON

Posted October 07, 2005 - 11:27 AM

#3

On a routine basis you should only have to remove two drain plugs, the one on the bottom of the engine and the 12 mm plug on the front of the frame down tube. You will want to remove the oil filter cover bolts when you change or clean your filter, (about every 3rd or 4th oil change), and on a 400 you will have to remove your head pipe to do this. :lol:

The other one that your manual is probably describing is the screen in your oil storage, (the bottom of the frame down tube), it has a hose connected to it and I think it is a odd size like a 23mm or something. Anyway, this should only need to be done on the first oil change after new or if you had something grenade in your motor. This screen will strain out large particles that are in your system before they go through the motor. I discourage the removal of this unless you think it's needed, I have had problems my self either getting it out or putting it in and consider myself lucky that I have not had to extract it or tap new threads in it yet. I have a friend that had to replace that fitting and it was not cheap and took along time to receive the order. The manual recommends removing this screen and cleaning it, you can try it but if you are having problems I would proceed carefully.

I have only removed my screen twice in 4000 miles and the first time it had a little bit of blue paint flakes in it and the second time ( a year later), it was completely clean. I have changed the oil every third ride and have never had to tear into the engine :banghead:

Good Luck :banghead:

  • Gadsen

Posted October 07, 2005 - 11:45 AM

#4

Well, if my bikes has sat over night, no need to drain the frame, its completely empty and everything is in the gearbox/engine. And then I just remove the one bolt in the bottom. There is another by the shifter, but I never get hardly anything from it, so I have never done it again. This is just me, but it works well and makes for little mess.

  • WGP

Posted October 07, 2005 - 01:08 PM

#5

You should always warm up your bike before oil change to get all the junk in suspension before you pull the plug. The smaller bolt should be pulled as this is where the lowest part of the engine is and heavy junk settles.
Just a note. :banghead:

  • Taewa

Posted October 07, 2005 - 01:53 PM

#6

Thanks to ALL for your contributions. I really appreciate your wisdom and input. May the force be with you.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Jeremiah

Posted October 07, 2005 - 02:00 PM

#7

I find it interesting that WGP recommends warming up the oil before changing it. I thought I had always heard that while growing up, but in recent years I've heard the opposite. Why start the engine and suspend the dirt/crap throughout the engine rather than let it all settle at the bottom and let it drain when the bolt is pulled? It just seems to make more sense to change it cold.

Anyway, I've heard both recommendations from different mechanics. I happen to side with the change it cold theory.

  • SJMC_DON

Posted October 07, 2005 - 02:19 PM

#8

I find it interesting that WGP recommends warming up the oil before changing it. I thought I had always heard that while growing up, but in recent years I've heard the opposite. Why start the engine and suspend the dirt/crap throughout the engine rather than let it all settle at the bottom and let it drain when the bolt is pulled? It just seems to make more sense to change it cold.

Anyway, I've heard both recommendations from different mechanics. I happen to side with the change it cold theory.


The oil will not drain well unless it is warmed up :banghead: Munaul says warm up bike for a few minutes before changing oil........ :banghead:

  • JETMAGNUM

Posted October 08, 2005 - 05:12 AM

#9

Any Tips Or Pointers For Changing Oil On 2004 Wr450 About To Do First Oil Change And Do Not Have Manual....

  • SJMC_DON

Posted October 08, 2005 - 09:29 AM

#10

Any Tips Or Pointers For Changing Oil On 2004 Wr450 About To Do First Oil Change And Do Not Have Manual....


If you are second owner or if the bike is new, get an oil filter. Get the bike level, I usually use a couple of tie downs off the bar ends to keep it straight up and down. Warm it up for a minute or two. Drain oil from bottom of motor. Drain oil from oil reservoir in the frame, (front of the down tube), this can be messy, I usually take an empty gallon jug with a wide funnel in it and hold it between the back of the front tire and the frame. This will catch the oil from running all over your front tire and garage floor :banghead: Change the oil filter, this will be on the right side above your water pump and case/clutch cover. Three bolts remove the cover, the rest is pretty basic but don't crush the O rings putting it back together :lol:

You might want to check the oil screen at the bottom of the reservoir in the frame down tube. It will have a oil line coming out of it. Remove the oil line, remove the fitting and check and clean the screen as needed. This should only need to be done once unless something in the motor lets loose. Be careful, this fitting can be a MF'er to get out :lol: :lol:

Oil is added on the left side case cover, the plug for the fill hole is pretty evident, you'll need a funnel. With a filter change I think your looking at about a quart of oil but I would have two on hand just in case. Use Yamaha 4 or another high quality oil that meets the SJ standard or better, WITH NO FRICTION ADDITIVES, unless you want your clutch to quit workin' :busted:

The dipstick is on the left side of the frame just above your left radiator.

Good luck, I would suggest hunting down a manual, try e-bay :banghead:

  • WGP

Posted October 08, 2005 - 10:27 AM

#11

I believe the reason for the warmed up oil change is that when the oil drains into the motor (cold) it will leave crap on the walls of the frame tube and elsewhere. When you drain it warm that crap is suspended in the oil, not on the dry sides of the motor?
Change oil often either way and you will have no problems :banghead:

  • Gadsen

Posted October 08, 2005 - 10:46 AM

#12

The oil will not drain well unless it is warmed up :banghead: Munaul says warm up bike for a few minutes before changing oil........ :banghead:


It will drain fine, just a lot slower is all. I usually do it when I have plenty of time as I'm making other adjsutments also.




 
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