Quick Question - Oil Filters
Posted August 28, 2005 - 06:28 PM
Posted August 28, 2005 - 07:29 PM
Posted August 28, 2005 - 08:05 PM
It's the oils viscosity that determines it's ability to "cling" to parts not wether it's a mineral or synthetic base, It's a popular old wives tale. I have even heard professional mechanics tell owners to never use synthetic oil as it will wreak all kinds of havoc on their engine and void their warranty.
Free your mind and your oil will follow, educate yourself like Clark4131, he is correct, the molecules in mineral oils are all different sizes and non uniform. PAO synthetic molecules are all excactly alike, uniform in size and shape hence the term "designer oils".
Posted August 29, 2005 - 10:28 AM
Posted August 29, 2005 - 11:55 AM
Posted August 29, 2005 - 01:02 PM
Posted August 29, 2005 - 04:12 PM
Posted August 29, 2005 - 06:39 PM
Here's a little link to a niftly little website that gives some insight into the whole synthetic, semi-synthetic, conventional oil controversy. I think the bottom line is that oil is like gold, Conventional is 10K, Semi is 14K and Full Synthetic is 24K. Due to the fact that the more learned of us are changing out every couple of rides anyway, I really think the whole thing is a moot point. But just in case lightning does strike, I'm still gonna go full synthetic based on my personal experiences ...SC
Posted August 29, 2005 - 09:48 PM
I have an '05 wr 450 with 90 miles on it. How long should I wait to switch to a fully synthetic oil? Is there anything I have to do to remove any residual left on the parts in the bike or is that amount of left over oil negligible?
Drain as much as you can of the previous oil and don't worry about the rest, after all that is what makes a semi-synthetic is a blend of mineral and synthetic.