Giving up!


7 replies to this topic
  • cork44

Posted August 24, 2005 - 06:38 PM

#1

I have a 2001 wr426, and I love riding it for recreation. I think its a great bike, but I just did my first enduro on a really tight course, and it kicked mine and my bikes a$$. I think the bike is way to heavy to maneuver around in the tight woods, and every time I took a spill, it took all of my energy to get it up and restarted. I saw all of these guys on their little KTM's going down and getting up and restarted in seconds. Also even with engine ice, I had to refill my coolant twice because it was boiling out in the tight woods. Am I the only one with this problem, or am I doing something wrong. I'm seriously thinking of crossing the line and getting a 250 2 stroke. Anyone interested in a WR426, I think its for sale.

  • dirtr1der

Posted August 24, 2005 - 06:50 PM

#2

While the WR can be a bear in the tight woods, it shouldn't be boiling out the engine ice, nor should it be too hard to start after you've dumped it (granted you know "the Drill.") Search this forum for the starting drill if you don't know what I'm talking about.

You should make sure that your suspension set up and jetting are tuned to the type of riding that you do. Those two things will make the bike feel much lighter and easier to handle if they are working right for you - not to mention making the bike easier to start with the right carb setup. I have had the same engine ice in my 02 for 2 seasons. I haven't lost a drop yet and I have one whole vein missing from my left radiator (was like that when I bought it.)

If you're thinking about switching to a 2-stroke for tight woods, consider a 125 if its light weight and ease of riding you're looking for. 250 2 strokes can also be a bear to handle in tight woods, unless you are well adjusted to them.

Good luck.

  • cork44

Posted August 24, 2005 - 07:32 PM

#3

Thanks for the info, I have had the same engine ice in the bike for the last year before the enduro, so I don't think that jetting is the problem(not 100% sure ). But I have never ridden that tight of woods for that long before. I know the starting drill good, and can get the bike started fist kick every time under normal conditions, but in the heat of the race, after being exhausted from picking the beast up, it takes away all of my energy, so even after I get it fired up, I am totally spent and my riding suffers, as I am not really that experienced anyway. I think I have the suspension dialed in OK, but it probably could be better. I might try another one and see how it goes.

  • jwriott

Posted August 24, 2005 - 07:44 PM

#4

I switched to a 300 EXC from an 01 WR426 for that very reason.

However, you need to make sure your jetting is correct and starting hot or cold won't be an issue. Putting a YZ Seat/Tank combo on the bike makes a world of difference in the tight stuff. I also raised my forks 10mm and it railed through the turns.

If you haven't done these things, I'd try it before getting rid of the bike. I like the KTM a lot but I do miss the torque and top end of the WR. It's a trade off and if you go to an MX 250cc 2-stroke, you'll have even less top speed.

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  • dirtr1der

Posted August 25, 2005 - 05:14 PM

#5

I switched to a 300 EXC from an 01 WR426 for that very reason.

However, you need to make sure your jetting is correct and starting hot or cold won't be an issue. Putting a YZ Seat/Tank combo on the bike makes a world of difference in the tight stuff. I also raised my forks 10mm and it railed through the turns.

If you haven't done these things, I'd try it before getting rid of the bike. I like the KTM a lot but I do miss the torque and top end of the WR. It's a trade off and if you go to an MX 250cc 2-stroke, you'll have even less top speed.


Vmax,

When you say you raised your forks 10mm, does that mean the front of the bike sits lower??? If so and that helps in the tight woods, I may try it. My bike is set up real tall in the front.

  • walent215

Posted August 25, 2005 - 05:26 PM

#6

Vmax,

When you say you raised your forks 10mm, does that mean the front of the bike sits lower??? If so and that helps in the tight woods, I may try it. My bike is set up real tall in the front.

ya thats what he means-your raising the forks in the clamps which brings the front end down also you need to have at least 100 mm sag

  • dirtr1der

Posted August 25, 2005 - 06:24 PM

#7

Thanks, walent215! I have sag set at 100 right now. Do I need to adjust my front clickers at all with this change??? Right now they are set up pretty stiff - about 8 clicks off hard.

  • TeamScream

Posted August 27, 2005 - 09:34 PM

#8

Get lower offset triples? pull the front end IN a bit?




 
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