Removing coolant resevoir



18 replies to this topic
  • MXH

Posted March 12, 2001 - 03:27 AM

#1

I want to remove the coolant resevoir on my '00 WR. Is this a common mod, and has anyone had any problems after doing it?

Mike

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted March 14, 2001 - 05:57 AM

#2

When I bought my 99WR, the resevoir was removed to reduce the weight. I just put a new one back on becuase I was constantly overheating in the woods. It's no sweat to remove though. Good luck.

  • mcarp

Posted March 14, 2001 - 06:29 AM

#3

I did this to my '00. Problems? It will puke coolant now if you let it idle for a few minutes. It's not good for the motor anyway due to lack of heat dissipation so don't do it. Mine will puke a little if it's full, but won't if the coolant level is below the neck about a inch.

Haven't had any overheating problems, but admittedly I removed it last fall and really haven't hit any tropical temps yet in Ohio :) Ran hard it for 4 hours last week, no drop in level noted.

I do use redline Water Wetter which is supposed to allow the coolant to cool faster.
It REALLY works, my last dual sport had a temp guage which consistently overheated in traffic or gnarly trails w/o water wetter.
Never overheated on that bike again after using WW.

It would be advised to check your coolant level often if you remove it, but that's about it. If you have an aftermarket pipe, you can now use the slimmer YZ style rear panels too.

  • bobwombat

Posted March 14, 2001 - 06:56 AM

#4

MXH: my ex-KTM300EXC overheated in the Arizona warm climate all the time but the WR NEVER has w/the resevoir still installed. sounds o.k. for moto but bad idea for summer trail/woods/desert riding....bobwombat

  • Hick

Posted March 14, 2001 - 09:23 AM

#5

Whenever someone brings this up I feel obligated to remind WR guys that all us poor schmoes who opted for the YZ got no coolant catch.

I do not moto, there are no tracks where I live, and WR gearing (w/ the exception of 5th) is less than optimal in the dez IMO. YZs are much more popular in the southwest dez (at least they are where I ride & race) and the more open areas and resultant higher speeds may actually mean less of an overheating problem than the eastern woods.

But I digress…

The only difference in going w/out the reservoir is you need to check your coolant before every ride. Don’t bother filling it to the top, the bike will vent the first couple of inches of coolant when it warms up.

  • WR400inOZ

Posted March 14, 2001 - 07:04 PM

#6

I still really question why people even bother.. It was put there for a pretty ligitimate reason... And for the sake of saving bugger all weight?? What you take off the resevoir and then add on a bigger fuel tank or something? I think unless your into hardcore enduro racing..it might be a consideration. But for the peice of mind I say leave it... :) Are you going to ride any better without it on?

  • MXH

Posted March 14, 2001 - 11:55 PM

#7

The reason I want to remove it is because you have to take the subframe of to adjust the preload on the rear, and the reservoir and pipes are in the way.

As someone mentioned, the YZs can do without it, and all the KTMs I've had in the past have never had one either. It's not as if we (in the UK) ever get the sort of temperatures that would cause overheating (not whilst riding, anyway - obviously idling is a different matter)

So unless anyone has a neat trick for adjusting the preload without removing the subframe, I think I'll have to go for it.

Mike

  • scoobydoo

Posted March 15, 2001 - 03:24 AM

#8

Mike
I find the best way to adjust pre load is to loosen the locknut with a long punch or screwdriver, grasp the spring below the air box with both hands and turn the whole spring and the adjuster will move with it. This works best when the weight is off the rear wheel. When correct preload is set tighten up the locknut, simple as that.
hope this helps

Glen

  • Heywood

Posted March 15, 2001 - 12:30 PM

#9

Hey MXH:

I felt just like you, too much of a hassle to get the subframe off when working on the carb and shock.

I removed my coolant tank and have never had a problem. I just keep an eye on my coolant level (which you should do anyway ). I tried a higher pressure radiator cap, but I have been running the stock one lately without any trouble.

I ride 60% trails, 20% MX, and 20% Street.

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  • James_Dean

Posted March 15, 2001 - 02:51 PM

#10

MXM,

Leave the upper 2 subframe bolts loose in the frame and remove the lower 2 bolts. Remove the muffler and swing the subframe up with the airbox, hinged on the upper bolts. Prop it up with a stick to hold it there. No need to disconnect the wires or hoses.

Adjust the preload.


I haven't removed the radiator cap in months, just look at the reservoir to see that it is partly full and no worries!

James

[This message has been edited by James Dean (edited 03-15-2001).]

  • SPEED

Posted March 15, 2001 - 03:31 PM

#11

If anyone can turn that rear spring with their hands, they must be a gorilla'.

  • James_Dean

Posted March 15, 2001 - 03:49 PM

#12

Speed,

Some WD40 on the threads and bottom ring and it can be turned by hands alone. The top adjuster ring will spin with the spring usually (as scooby said). Be sure the bike is on a center stand with back wheel in the air. Gloves always help make it easier.

James

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted March 15, 2001 - 04:37 PM

#13

Scooby Doo and James Dean are correct. That's the way I adjust my preload, and I have mine pretty much maxed out.

  • travis

Posted March 15, 2001 - 05:10 PM

#14

Originally posted by MXH:
I want to remove the coolant resevoir on my '00 WR. Is this a common mod, and has anyone had any problems after doing it?

Mike


Baja Designs suggested I remove the reservoir from my 98 WR400 and replace the radiator cap with a KX500 cap (1.6 psi, vice the 1.1 or so with the stock). I have ridden in the desert, on the dunes, in the mountains of Colorado, and in the woods of Florida. The only times I've had my bike dump coolant was when we went to 13000 feet in Colorado, which is to be expected. The reservoir is not required as it does NOT provide any extra heat sink, it's only to compensate for the low pressure radiator cap. But, if you're that worried about it, leave it there.

Gotta love the WR's.......

  • TheBOS

Posted March 16, 2001 - 09:09 AM

#15

Are there any drawbacks to putting on a rad cap with a higher psi?

  • Heywood

Posted March 16, 2001 - 10:55 PM

#16

The cap would vent at a higher pressure so you are subjecting your cooling system (hoses, clamps, gaskets, etc.) to greater pressure in the event you "overheat".

I would expect that when all the parts are in good shape, it would not be a problem. If you had a marginal hose or something, it might be a different story.

  • racinace

Posted March 25, 2008 - 07:44 PM

#17

Hey guys...
I am trying to expand the range on my son's KTM 85 and I have been told that the WR coolant resovior works very well.

If anyone is interested in selling the resovior off their WR I am interested in buying it. Send me a PM and let me know.

Thanks,

Ace

  • doctorchopper

Posted March 26, 2008 - 05:07 AM

#18

How often do you have to set up your pre load? Sure it may be a pain to set it up, but once it is set up then you shouldn't have to adjust it again

  • dugabrams

Posted March 26, 2008 - 10:18 AM

#19

I'm not sure, but the twin towers are the tallest buildings in New York and that Tom Brady kid might be better than Drew Bledsoe,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,huh




 
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