Q on putting on a number plate



9 replies to this topic
  • Dougie

Posted March 10, 2001 - 01:36 PM

#1

I have a Q for those who have done this. My dealer gave me his number plate off his YZ426. But I can't get it to fit. I have the Scotts triple clamps and they come with the holes for the plate to stick into. However, two things are preventing it from going on.

1) The brake line guides prevent it from fitting.
2) It looks like the plate will hit the fender before the prongs slide into the holes.

How is the YZ plate supposed to fit on the WR. Do I have to remove pieces? Do I have to get a YZ400 number plate (are they diff from the 426)?

I thought I'd ask before I started removing pieces.

Thanks

  • Bill

Posted March 10, 2001 - 01:57 PM

#2

Dougie,

Dude your all about posting today. Did the wife and little shaver go out of town :) How is the baby doing?

Hey, I'm not sure on the big bore dub-R, but I did go look at my 99. I used a Acerbis YZ plate and it bolted right up and uses the stock brake line guide.

Sorry, maybe one the the guys with a newer bike can help. I just really wanted to say hi :D

Bill

------------------
86TT225, 99WR, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. De-octopussed. Works frame guards and Thumper Rad Guards, Scotts steering damper. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank, IMS seat and number plate. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA, Happy Ramblers MXC.

  • Dougie

Posted March 10, 2001 - 04:43 PM

#3

We're doing good Bill, thank you for asking.

I'm not sure what you mean by using the stock brake line guide? There are two, the mid and top. And the plate doesn't seem to have any thing to connect to those. They are both in the way.

  • Bill

Posted March 10, 2001 - 05:49 PM

#4

Dougie,

I just went to the Yamaha page and looked at the pic of the 01 bike and also ran down to the shop and looked at my 99. The brake line guide configuration appears to be the same.

The pins on my plate did not bottom in the holes on the lower TC, but did go in far enough to hold the plate on. I did have to "turn down" the pins, the dia. was to large. I used a drill and closed the chuck to the size I needed and with the drill running, I pushed it over the pins, "turning them down". The brk line guide on the lower triple clamp should not interfere. I wonder if I'm having trouble understanding or you may have the wrong number plate?

The bottom brk line guide is on the fork leg and the upper on the lower TC......right? The plate fits behind the brake line and above the lower TC brk line guide bracket. The odometer does have to come off and you have to make a little bracket to hold the plate on, using the odo mount tang. I bent a piece of plumbers tape in about a 45 degree angle, painted it and it works great. The flappy thing at the top left (sitting in the bike)of the plate, goes around the handle bars (not crossbar), to keep the brk line from hooking on your TC, when you bottom the suspension.

Is that as clear as mud? Wished I had a digital camera.

edit: or maybe it's the scotts clamps????

Bill

[This message has been edited by Bill (edited 03-10-2001).]

  • Ron_in_SoCal

Posted March 11, 2001 - 09:27 AM

#5

Dougie,

When I went to Scotts and purchased my triple clamp, the guy asked me if I was going to keep the headlight on the bike or not. I'm not exactly sure why he asked, but I think you need a part that bolts onto the crown to accommodate the number plate. I'll check it out…

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  • Dan_Lorenze

Posted March 11, 2001 - 01:40 PM

#6

Dougie, Ron's right! Dude, I remember telling you about this, I too have the same setup that you have (Scotts pro-taper). You will notice a small tapped hole on the front side of your top clamp, Scotts has a little tab (L-bracket) that screws on to it, that tab is where you bolt your plate on to. As far as the tabs on the bottom clamp, there are two options that I know of, I've done both. 1. Do as Bill said and to stick the number plate tabs into the thredded hole on the bottom clamp (his approach to shave them down is quite innovative). Or 2. Cut the tabs off completely then drill a hole through the plastic where the tabs used to be and simply bolt the thing down. I think that the second option is the best way to go. You'll need a long screwdriver to do this. As far as the cable guide goes I just use the one on the bottom clamp it seems to work fine, What I think would be a good idea is to get a bolt-on cable guide to go on the front plate, most all pros do this and I think it would work just fine. Best of luck, let me know how it goes, if you have any more questions dont be afraid to ask, Dan

  • Dougie

Posted March 11, 2001 - 06:52 PM

#7

I remember your post Dan but I was thought you were talking about the lower clamp holes. I haven't been able to look at it today. Are you saying I will have to order that L bracket from Scotts? I thought this would be easy. Off with the light, on with the plate. I'm thinking I'll stop by a dealer to get a closer look at a YZ.

  • jj

Posted March 12, 2001 - 08:39 AM

#8

I've been trying to come up with a way to get the number plate to fit with my topeak mounted in the stock odo location. Any ideas?

Probably would need a longer number plate bracket, similar to the Scotts...

------------------
JJ from WA - 99 WR; WR timed, EKN Needle, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Michelin S-12's, Terry Cable hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Factory Effex graphics, YZ IMS seat base, YZ Factory Effex seat foam and gripper seat cover, YZ rear fender

  • Dougie

Posted March 16, 2001 - 02:03 PM

#9

OK, the problem was two fold. First the main reason I couldn't get it to fit was Yamaha changed the number plate styling in 2000. The prongs on the bottom are shorter in the 2000 and won't match up with the 99 triple clamp. Plus the bolt at the top does not go through the front of the plate, it goes through the top.

Plus, like Dan said, I needed the Scott's adapting bracket to match up the screw in the number plate.

So what started out with a free number plate, even if it was for a 2001 YZ426, ended up costing me $35, 20 for the 99 plate and 15 for the bracket adapter. :)

  • Hick

Posted March 16, 2001 - 02:16 PM

#10

Not sure what’s goin’ on over there…

But I’ve had both a ’99 and ’00 aftermarket # plate on my ’00 YZ and my Scott’s top clamp came with mounting hardware that would work with both types.

I forget what is who, but one had the centered top mount bolt on a horizontal axis, the other on a vertical. So don’t buy another # plate until you talk to Scott’s IF that top bolt is the only issue you have.

Otherwise…
…NEVERMIND!!




 
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