dribbly brakes

8 replies to this topic
  • spillicious

Posted July 30, 2005 - 04:10 PM


Alright so I have been having a major problem getting my brakes to work again. I fell about a week ago and lost the power to my front brakes. (Wasn't THAT nasty of a fall) But needless to say i saw that my brake line looked to have been shredded so i went ahead and replaced it with a new stainless steel brake line. I also opened up my master cylinder and it didnt appear to have anything noticably busted about it. dont have a trained eye though, but its a pretty basic setup. anyways i have spent a total of close to 3-4 hours trying to bleed the brakes and havent gotten anything more than a slow dribble. I even went out and got a vacuum pump in hopes i was just being sloppy. still no pressure to my brakes. some guys at a local shop said i have air in the master cylinder but i have no clue if this is true or how to bleed that as well. I have a yz426. Thanks a bunch guys for any helpful info.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 30, 2005 - 04:48 PM


Get a large syringe, or almost any good sized squeeze bottle (works best if it's at least semi-transparent), and be certain the inside of it is Clean. Dump some brake fluid (use DOT 4) in it and open the bleeder. Attach the bottle to the bleeder with a small hose, make sure there's no air in the hose, and force the fluid up from the bottom instead of the other way around. The air will be forced up to and out of the reservoir, which will spill over, so be ready for that.

  • spillicious

Posted July 30, 2005 - 05:58 PM


so you think i just still have air in the hose if its slowly dribbling out like that? and is there any other technique in doing it the reverse way? or where i can find the supplies to do it that way? i tried doing it with a syringe that wasnt that big and it wouldnt really work. nothing came out from the master cylinder. thanks

  • grayracer513

Posted July 31, 2005 - 09:08 AM


You need a larger syringe, or a bottle with about a pint or more capacity and a "squirt" top like you see on gear oil, or on the ketchup bottles at a restaurant.

There is another way. Remove the caliper from the fork with the hose attached. Slip a piece of wood or something between the brake pads, and hold or hang the caliper at a level higher than the master cylinder, with the bleeder on top. Then bleed it with the brake lever. Don't "pump up" the brake. Open the bleeder, squeeze the lever to the bar, close the bleeder, release the lever, repeat.

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  • spillicious

Posted July 31, 2005 - 11:10 AM


awesome thanks a lot. gonna go try that out today as soon as i get an extra hand. thanks again

  • MisterMan

Posted July 31, 2005 - 03:23 PM


saw in a mag to open up the res. , apply the brakes to the bars then zip tye around the lever to the bars, i have no idea if it'll work.......

  • John407

Posted July 31, 2005 - 05:35 PM


Grayracer, you say not to pump the lever? I've been "pumping" the lever everytime I've bled brakes. It seems to work OK. I am going to try your method next time I change out the fluid. I never really heard a reason for (or against) pumping the lever, is there something wrong with the pump method? :D

  • grayracer513

Posted July 31, 2005 - 06:43 PM


The problem with pumping the brakes is that it can whip the air into a foam, making it more difficult to extract. When something major like a new line is installed, it can seem to take a very long time to work it all the way out, but you're better off not pumping.

  • 5valve

Posted July 31, 2005 - 09:59 PM


it took me very long time to remove the air when gone to new line, it just wouldnt stop coming out, so I did a serch on the TT and found very usefull info

first bleed the air through loosened lower screw that holds the line (air bleed screw is tightened at that time), and when you think the majoritiy got out, tighten it, and finalize with air bleeder screw

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