WR to YZ mod pics


11 replies to this topic
  • RADRick

Posted July 22, 2005 - 06:49 PM

#1

It seems someone is always asking about doing this. As far as the rear fender goes, Acerbis offers a YZ replacement fender that has either the cutouts for the WR overflow tank already present, or has outlines of where to make the cuts. I think Cycra and Polisport also offer them. The easiest way to make a YZ front number plate fit properly is to get a stock YZ or YZF top triple clamp off of eBay. The '03-'05 are interchangeable and may even fit earlier years. I came up with a better way to wire the ignition and get rid of the WR's ridiculous on/off switch and LED by using the run/stop/start switch from a TTR250. (Factory cost: $34.) The switch hasn't changed since 1997. The advantage here is you can get rid of the left side kill switch and now when you turn off the engine with the run/stop switch you also kill the battery circuit and no longer have to worry about draining it dead. I also made a plate to mount my TrailTech computer, but it mounts off the bar clamp instead of the triple tree. It's pretty well protected. I put a 12V red indicator light ($1.59 at Radio Shack) on the plate to indicate when the battery circuit is on (like the stock LED), but it isn't really necessary. Here are pics showing my mods.

http://i3.photobucke...k1/WR2YZ004.jpg
http://i3.photobucke...k1/WR2YZ001.jpg
http://i3.photobucke...k1/WR2YZ003.jpg

I've since swapped out the YZ top clamp for an aftermarket one, and I converted the stupid loopy stock WR brake line to a CR-style braided line, which resulted in a much cleaner MX look.

http://i3.photobucke...k1/WR2YZ005.jpg
http://i3.photobucke...ick1/WR2YZ1.jpg

Even with the WR graphics on the shrouds, I still get double looks from people when I hit the magic button, especially at the track. I kept the stock WR top clamp and brackets so I can easily remount the headlight if I want. Since the TrailTech is not mounted off the top clamp and the bracket-mounted wire loom is now gone, swapping back and forth is a breeze. Enjoy.

  • WheelsUp

Posted July 22, 2005 - 09:10 PM

#2

Sweet.
If you don't care about the lamp to indicate the battery circuit is active, then try this....

Leave the hot side connected to the existing connection (hot only when battery is active, right?). Move the ground wire from ground to the blue wire.

You now have a neutral indicator lamp.

  • RADRick

Posted July 23, 2005 - 08:57 AM

#3

Sweet.
If you don't care about the lamp to indicate the battery circuit is active, then try this....

Leave the hot side connected to the existing connection (hot only when battery is active, right?). Move the ground wire from ground to the blue wire.

You now have a neutral indicator lamp.

That would only work when the engine is off as that is when the battery circuit is hot. Good idea, though, to keep you from hitting the start button with the bike in gear. Since I removed the neutral safety switch and clutch switch, it might work for me, but I almost always click the bike into N before shutting it off.

  • WheelsUp

Posted July 23, 2005 - 10:39 AM

#4

Hmm.... The headlight circuit would work if it's regulated, or go off of the hot side of the ignition switch itself. I pull power for my GPS from the ignition switch.

After my buddy left his ignition button "on" and killed the battery, I wired a buzzer in parallel with the original LED. Now it's kinda like a Diesel boat.

  • The_Blue_One

Posted July 23, 2005 - 02:05 PM

#5

Radrick

Do you have the part number for the switch? I think that is pretty trick.:applause:

  • SBK

Posted July 23, 2005 - 03:45 PM

#6

Rick, I'd be interested in the details of the switch/wiring also - that turned out great. Mine's a WR/YZ too:

Posted Image

I mounted my trailtech to the bar clamp bracket as well, but on an aluminum bracket that attaches to the billet protector. Puts it at the perfect angle for viewability, and it's been thru a fair amount of abuse without issue mounted this way. Here's a closer shot of my mounting setup:

Posted Image

Rather than clamping the bracket between the top clamp and riser, I ended up drilling/tapping the bottom side of the top clamp and bolting it on from the bottom. Seems to be working out great so far.

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  • RADRick

Posted July 23, 2005 - 05:38 PM

#7

Radrick

Do you have the part number for the switch? I think that is pretty trick.:applause:

Yamaha part# 4GY-83975-00-00. I ordered mine online from http://www.yamahaaccy.com/ They had the best price and I got it in about 5 days time.

  • mjskier

Posted July 23, 2005 - 05:58 PM

#8

[quote name='SBK']Mine's a WR/YZ too:[/img]

That's a good looking bike. Too clean though. Do you ever ride it in the dirt ? :-)

Is that a YZ tank/seat or is that the stock WR ?

bruno.

  • The_Blue_One

Posted July 23, 2005 - 08:12 PM

#9

Yamaha part# 4GY-83975-00-00. I ordered mine online from http://www.yamahaaccy.com/ They had the best price and I got it in about 5 days time.



Thanks:thumbsup: I thought that was it until it came up @$60 :applause:

  • clark4131

Posted July 23, 2005 - 08:30 PM

#10

How difficult was it to wire in the TTR switch? Was it pretty straight forward or did you have to get out the old multi-meter and soldering iron? Thanks for the info...SC

  • SBK

Posted July 24, 2005 - 04:27 AM

#11

That's a good looking bike. Too clean though. Do you ever ride it in the dirt ? Is that a YZ tank/seat or is that the stock WR ?

Dirt, Bruno?!!? Is that what these things are for? :eek: I will admit to washing the bike every couple rides. :applause: Stock WR seat and tank.

  • RADRick

Posted July 24, 2005 - 11:08 AM

#12

How difficult was it to wire in the TTR switch? Was it pretty straight forward or did you have to get out the old multi-meter and soldering iron? Thanks for the info...SC

Soldering iron? Of course. You could use crimp splices, but on an off-road vehicle I prefer the peace of mind that a soldered connection gives. As for the multimeter, unless you have a TTR wiring diagram, you'll need it to figure out what pairs of wires on the new switch correspond to which switches. As for connections, you'll be replacing existing switches with other switches so as long as you have the wire pairs separated properly, you can hook them up easily. There's no polarity to observe since both switches control grounded circuits.




 
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