Rebleeding my rear brake...Need help


8 replies to this topic
  • freestyle250

Posted July 17, 2005 - 06:07 PM

#1

So I was out on a ride this last Saturday and took a real small jump. When I landed I guess something must have popped loose because when I came riding up behind my buddy to stop my rear brake didnt work. So I instinctively yanked the front and almost went over the bars. Upon inspection, I found that when I replaced the bolt that holds the brake line to the brake pedal, I must not have tightened it down enough. So now I have to rebleed it, but I have never done a motorcycle before. Ive bleed mountain bike brakes, but I was just wondering if there is any good technique. Also, what kind of brake fluid should I use?

  • flatnacker

Posted July 17, 2005 - 06:36 PM

#2

You use the rear brake??

  • freestyle250

Posted July 18, 2005 - 11:26 AM

#3

Only on steep loose decents. Gets a little freaky without one imo

  • flatnacker

Posted July 18, 2005 - 04:04 PM

#4

Yikes, I never touch the rear brake on steep decents!!! Al front brake othewise you will get crossed up very quickly!! Anyways the method I use that works pretty well and is the same for all brakes is to simple pump the brake, hold it down, then momentarilly crack the bleeder valve, then repeat the process until the line is purger of al air and is nice and firm.Obviously you will need to resivour (sp?) cap off so you can top it up. Havent realy experimented with different brands all that much.

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  • drewpeacock

Posted July 18, 2005 - 04:44 PM

#5

While on the subject of brakes :applause: has anyone had to buy the rebuild kit, i.e. plunger,o-rings? I've tried everthing to get rid of my wifes spungy brakes (yz250f) and nothing works.

  • mjskier

Posted July 18, 2005 - 06:10 PM

#6

The front brake on my 99 YZ250 always felt a bit spongy until I replaced the line with a steal belted line with the more direct routing that is (was) patented by Honda. (It is called CR style on most online shop like rockymountainmc.com)
I think the patent just expired and Yamaha has started using that more direct routing in the last year or so. You get a shorter cable, so less room to expand, and is is easier to get rid of any air bubble as they don't get trapped at the elbow like on the traditional yamaha cable.

bruno.

  • Conan_'dale

Posted July 19, 2005 - 10:00 AM

#7

freestyle250,

I just replaced my rear brake line with a steel braided line. Go to your Yamaha dealer and get some dot 3 or 4. The rear brake can take either. The front brake needs DOT 4.

I replaced the entire system and after 1 hour of bleeding the air out we decided to take a "turkey baster" and fill it with fluid. Use the baster to push fluid down the plunger of the res it will push out all the air out of your bleeder valve when it is open. Fill the res up, put he cap back on and test. You should be good to go. :applause:

It's good to have a buddy help you while you do this. Makes life much easier.

  • freestyle250

Posted July 19, 2005 - 10:40 AM

#8

Thanks guys, hopefully i'll be ready to go for this weekend

  • catmanz440

Posted July 19, 2005 - 06:39 PM

#9

You can get a whole lotta air bubbles in there. Here's my suggestion...go down to your local auto parts store (Murray's, Pep-Boys, Auto Zone...etc), either rent or buy (about $35) a vacuum pump. A very popular one is called MityVac. They are great for bleeding brakes, it takes less time, and less mess. Go for it! :applause:




 
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