post break-in advice?

9 replies to this topic
  • rm

Posted March 07, 2001 - 10:40 PM


i have to start by saying that this is a great site.
i'm new to riding and just got a 01 wr426. how long should i break it in for?
i've already ridden it 20 miles.
what do i need to look at or service besides what's recomended in the manual?
how do i adjust the clutch?
also, what initial basic upgrades can i make that require little cash and little mechanical ability?
i am totally new to this-owned an atc 185s as a kid but haven't ridden in over 15 years-so any help and advice would be appreciated.
also, i fly a helicopter for a living and the other day something really bad almost happened because i was thinking about my new this just going to get worse?

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted March 08, 2001 - 12:10 AM


do a search under "break in". It has been discussed many times. Ton's of differing opinions. I rode 20 miles, changed the oil. I repeated this until there was no metal shavings in my filter screen. Total 3 rides. Shut down and cool every 10 or 15 min.

  • WR400inOZ

Posted March 08, 2001 - 02:55 AM


All I can say is tape your gonads up real good cause that bike will be the test of how big they really are! hehe

Yeah I agree with RM, do a search and you will find lots of info..mixed methods and basically good all round advice.

As for mods... run the bike in, get the feel of it and you wil probably find you won't need to do amny if any mods.. just twist the throttle and hang on!

I also suggest you register as people tend to take posts a little more seriously if you do.


P.S go over the whole bike and make sure EVERYTHING is greased and properly lubed up!
I was suprised at how 'little' grease was in some important spots.

  • TheBOS

Posted March 08, 2001 - 05:57 AM


Originally posted by WR400inOZ:

P.S go over the whole bike and make sure EVERYTHING is greased and properly lubed up!
I was suprised at how 'little' grease was in some important spots.

I second that. If your new 426 is anything like my new 250f the steering head and linkage are almost completely dry with no grease. The steering head is easy, the linkage is more time consuming if it's your first time, but it's well worth it! -Brett

  • darbsitton

Posted March 08, 2001 - 07:03 AM


Click here to see what I have done:

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  • rm

Posted March 08, 2001 - 08:49 AM


thanks for the quick responses to my FNG questions. i have taken your advice and registered and searched the site for break in advice as well as oil types. i hope in the time to come you guys will be patient with my very basic questions- i've read some of the more technical discussions and i must admit i've been a bit intimidated by how much i don't know. i love riding and i just adore my 426 so i guess the knowledge will come in time. all of your comments are greatly appreciated.
any of you guys live in nw ohio? would love to ride with some more experienced riders.
oz, the gonads have finally dropped back to their original position after last weekends first ride. you are right, this bike is a good handful.

  • olson_jr

Posted March 08, 2001 - 01:43 PM


Where do you ride in NW Ohio, I'm from Se MI.

  • WR400inOZ

Posted March 10, 2001 - 05:56 AM



I like what you did with your link...thats perfect for someone starting out...

You said you added a fuel filter...? whats the deal there?

Good advice on the suspension setup too..Im going to change mine to similar settings as I weigh the same and ride in similar conditions.

RM, good to see you registered. Keep us upto date if you have any issues or questions.

  • mcarp

Posted March 10, 2001 - 04:32 PM



I live in Columbus. Drop me a line sometime, maybe we can hook up and go riding. (click the envelope to get my email address).

As far as mods, well, it there are sooo many things to do. If you have good mechanical ability, I second the notion of greasing your head bearings, linkage, shock, etc.

I know you're new--a few very basic items are cutting your throttle stop, removing the airbox lid, and removing the exhaust plug. Those will free up the flow and allow for probably more power than what you'll need for now. The word is still out on how much to remove. My advice is buy a 01 YZ426 throttle stop and install it.

When you remove these things, your carb jetting will be a little lean. Turn your fuel screw out to compensate. Other jets may have to be changed as well, it's easy to make the changes, hard to figure out what to change and by how much.

Email me if you're totally lost, I'll try to help out.

Other stuff--change the oil after every ride when it's new. Clean the filter with a spray solvent from the inside out.

Make sure you oil the air filter, don't overoil it. Mine was dry from the factory :) Buy a few extras as they'll get dirty fast and it's easier to clean 2-3 at once. The WB powerfilter looks to be a great replacement, as well as UNI, no toil, etc.
Tighten the spokes. Tighten all bolts to spec.

$$$$ stuff get's out of hand quickly.
Here's a few more things I've done and the appx cost. I ranked them in order of importance, IMHO for trail/light mx. Note, I have a '00 WR400 and have been riding for a few years, so the power mods might now apply.

$150 Good set of tools, allen t-handles, allen sockets, torque wrench, etc
$15 (grease, oil, rags)- Preride teardown, greasejob, loctite shock and rear sprocket, oil cables, adjust controls, set sag, tighten bolts, vaseline fork seal trick, bleed brakes,tighten spokes. The list goes on, but these are the basics.

$100 Michelin S12 Front / D755 Rear tire for soft terrain
$50 14/52 gearing.
$0 Raise forks in triple clamps- Steers quicker
$10 YZ throttle stop, remove baffles, YZ timing change. Way more power
$50 Used YZ400 Exhaust- Lighter, faster
$35 Jetting- Read a lot and ask questions!
$100 Used YZ tank- ask someone on the YZ side
$100 YZ seat/guts soft foam/grippy cover (you have to run the YZ seat and tank together) ---more ergonomic, big difference
$400 Fork revalve - WOW.
$400 Scotts Damper- Saved my butt a few times!

That should get you started. Some folks insist on the damper first thing. I ranked it last only because the basic mods above mads it rideable, and the suspension revalving was night and day difference in handling and control. The damper will ice the cake...

Damn, starting on the 426 is going to be fun...when in doubt...GAS IT! Drop me a line.

  • Boit

Posted March 11, 2001 - 02:47 AM


A good rule of thumb when adjusting the clutch play is to adjust the free just enough so the you can slide a nickel between the lever and the perch. After you've done this a time or two, you will get a "feel" for what the lever play should feel like.


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