Front Brake Bleeding
Posted February 27, 2001 - 11:27 AM
Posted February 27, 2001 - 01:05 PM
Posted February 27, 2001 - 01:10 PM
[This message has been edited by Rick Graham (edited 02-27-2001).]
Posted February 27, 2001 - 02:35 PM
pull the caliper off & put something with rounded edges in between the pads. turn the steering to get the resevior level, lid off. put some rag close around everything as your fluid will pop up & you don't want it to go everywhere. open both pads out as far as they will go (together at the same time)by twisting the implement.
you are forcing the fluid up, the air WILL BE AT THE TOP so it should come out.
leave in this position for two minutes, refit caliper & pump up the brake remembering that the little hole in your mastercylinder base, should always have plenty of fluid & not suck air.
this will improve your brake, it might be the answer. the next part will.
now put some rag around the banjo bolt.
clamp the brake lever 'on'. leave for ten minutes. then undo the tape (or whatever) & whilst holding the brake 'on' yourself undo the top banjo bolt VERY slowly. you'll hear it fart & fizz as air squirts out. NOW LOCK THE BANJO BOLT BACK UP. now let go of the brake. pull the brake lever in & out five times in succesion & hold it in the fifth time HARD. NOW UNDO THE BANJO BOLT AGAIN SLIGHTLY & hear fizzle & fart again. NOW PINCH again & let go of the lever in that order.
check that you have plenty of fluid in the resevior all the time covering that little hole.
do this several times if needs be.
top up resevior. put lid on & wash fluid away with some soap & water.
if that fails put the caliper on the disc with NO BOLTS, hold it there with tape or something. with the caliper centrally positioned OF IT'S OWN ACCORD do the above again.
Posted February 27, 2001 - 04:02 PM
When I put on my stainless steel line, I too thought I'd never get it bled. But I did. Taffsters explanation sounds good.
I do know Clark has always pushed filling it from the bottom up to the reservoir. I did not have a pump when I did mine.
'99 WZ with all YZ mods, FMF PowerBomb header, Stroker SX-1 silencer, SS front brake line, forked over by Pro-Action, OEM YZ tank and IMS seat.
Posted February 27, 2001 - 06:55 PM
JJ from WA - 99 WR; WR timed, EKN Needle, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Michelin S-12's, Terry Cable hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Factory Effex graphics, YZ IMS seat base, YZ Factory Effex seat foam and gripper seat cover, YZ rear fender
Posted February 27, 2001 - 07:13 PM
It said to put a zip tie on the front brake lever, holding the brake lever down.
Leave it over night...
The next am cut the zip-ty, and majic!
I can't explain it...
Posted February 27, 2001 - 07:24 PM
i have used the gravity method and it works very well. just take off the res. cap, loosen the bleed screw and let it drip away. it takes a while but sometimes i found this the only way to bleed certain pita systems.
Posted February 27, 2001 - 07:32 PM
No bleeders left open...
Just the constant pressure overnight bleeds a marginal system.
I can't explain it.
Posted February 27, 2001 - 08:25 PM
Leave the brake on overnight...
I know it sounds weird?
I can only say it has worked on some bikes that I couldn't get to bleed...
I know this sounds super hokey but it has worked?...!
[This message has been edited by SFO (edited 02-27-2001).]
Posted February 27, 2001 - 11:59 PM
what happens to the fluid just infront of the mastercylinder piston when you let the brake off?
it goes back into the brake resevior.
if you left it overnight all the bubbles are at the top waiting to be first one's out the door.
Posted February 28, 2001 - 09:16 PM
Why do we park on the driveway and drive on the parkway?