Hebo Hydraulic Clutch Photos
Posted February 23, 2001 - 10:47 PM
Here's what the clutch lever/mastercylinder looks like. I switched the compression release to outside the mastercylinder - it really gets a little tight over there.
and from the front:
I'll let you know how it works after the weekend.
If you are thinking about one of these - erider is having a sale that is over at the end of Feb. They say they have about 6 left at $167. www.erider.ws (I'm just a customer - no ties to erider at all)
[This message has been edited by Michael (edited 02-24-2001).]
Posted February 25, 2001 - 07:24 PM
Posted February 25, 2001 - 08:56 PM
This change is one of my favorities - and one of the cheapest.
Posted February 25, 2001 - 09:33 PM
Posted February 25, 2001 - 09:52 PM
[This message has been edited by Michael (edited 02-26-2001).]
Posted February 27, 2001 - 02:01 PM
Great photos. Purchased one of the Hebo clutches today. Kevin directed me to these photos on the dirtrider.net website. By the way, he indicated that there were only 3 left, so any of you hesitating may have procrastinated too long. Looking forward to installing this soon.
Posted February 27, 2001 - 03:30 PM
Rock "man" - Thanks...glad they helped. I was really wanting to see what this thing looked like when I was getting ready to install it. I'm not sure there isn't a better way to mount it - I'm sure someone will figure one out once they see the parts and my starting point.
I still think there is a way to eliminate the cable sheath by modifying adjustable screw (on the right hand side of the top picture - mounted in the stock cable bracket) and hard mounting the slave cylinder to it (basically screw it on). I'm just not sure it wouldn't stick out too far. I may experiment on my brother-in-laws WR (Unkle Moose) and see if it works any better. If it doesn't work.....what the heck - ain't my bike!
Posted February 28, 2001 - 06:53 AM
Posted February 28, 2001 - 09:16 AM
Posted February 28, 2001 - 09:50 PM
1) Make sure you have the 8-10mm space in the adjustment piece threaded into the slave cylinder
2) Make sure the "terminating barrel" - the part that inserts into the clutch arm - is NOT tighten on the cable
3)Check to make sure the mechanical attachment is set the way you what it and clearance are okay
4)Now screw in the adjustment piece in the slave cylinder to eliminate the 8-10mm space
5)Have a helping hand to push in the slave cylinder piston with the rivot tool
6)You rotate the clutch arm counterclockwise to remove any play and tighten the screw in the barrel to lock the cable
7)Work the clutch several times
8)Adjust the threaded adjustment piece in the slave cylinder to acheive the correct freeplay - feel - of the cable
9)Adjust the screw on the lever that pushes the mastercylinder piston to set up your lever
10)Start the beast (WARNING - your results could vary) and carefully check for proper clutch function.
Mine tended to "drag" a bit (clutch wouldn't completely disengage) at first - it could have been exciting if I had been in a tight space. I hadn't adjusted (step 4) very well so I had a bit of excess slack (play) in the cable.
Hope that, with the pictures, helps...
I'm going to try a different install on mine (as I discussed above) - maybe next week. I want to ride it this weekend. I'll let you know what the result is.
Posted March 01, 2001 - 06:55 AM
Posted March 02, 2001 - 09:51 PM
Posted March 05, 2001 - 08:36 AM