baja design kit electrical component part number



14 replies to this topic
  • robin_des_bois

Posted February 20, 2001 - 04:50 PM

#1

I'm redoing my electrical system on my bike and I'm trying to figures out which FET whould I buy to control the front light. Could somebody have a look at his baja kit and give me the part number in order to get one? (it is simpler than finding the good spec!)

Could you do the same thing with the rectifier/regulator?

This is the only thing I need to know in order to be able to do a full street conversion. I'm doing all the other job.

Robin

  • fershy

Posted February 20, 2001 - 07:57 PM

#2

Why are you wanting a FET switch? Does that not just kill the light while starting?
Are you just wanting to convert to a DC power for the lights and signals? I don't think that Baja Designs sells the FET switch separately. I ordered the signal switch that came with the kit and I needed someone who owned the kit to order as they did not want to sell that part separately. I am running my WR as a dualsport on a total loss DC gel cell that I have crammed into the airbox. All I really need the DC for is to run a horn and the signal relay.
fershy

  • Heywood

Posted February 21, 2001 - 12:08 PM

#3

The Baja Designs FET Switch is a "potted" (encased in expoy) module, so you won't be able to read the part number off it.

It turns off the head light when the motor is not running. The headlight will drain their little battery real fast if the motor is not running.

I'll take a look at the paperwork tonight and see if I can figure out the type of FET they are using and suggest a replacement.

  • robin_des_bois

Posted February 21, 2001 - 12:48 PM

#4

I have the complete paper that comes with the kit (my brother bought a kit). My bike had already a dual sport kit but without battery and rectifier so horn and flasher wasn't working properly.
I am redoing the wiring (was badly done) but I need to install a battery, a rectifier and a FET to control the light since I don't want to add a switch to control the light (stock light switch will be used to cut the light from battery.)

Battery is not a problem, I heard that you can buy a snow mobile rectifier/regulator for 20$ canadian but I don't know yet if this is exactly what I am looking for. For the FET, I'll have the choice of another mechanical switch, no switch at all (turning the light off each time the motor die) or find which FET could be good. The problem with FET is they have many spec and I'm a mechanical engineer, not electrical. So beside the amp rating, I cannot give any spec to look for the piece.

Thank again.

When the system will be working, I'll do a small document to distribute to anybody who want to build his own dual-sport system here.

Robin

  • GPS Dual Sport

Posted February 21, 2001 - 05:08 PM

#5

I agree that the FET is a questionable addition to you conversion. The new Baja Designs kits have quit using the FET and have a headlight off position on the handle bar switch. If your battery is getting discharged by slow trail plonking killing the headlight can reduce the drain.
If you really want the FET Baja Designs will probably sell you one. Just call and ask them.

  • robin_des_bois

Posted February 21, 2001 - 07:12 PM

#6

My brother bought a baja kit this last summer and he has both the switch with no headlight position and the FET.

  • Clark_Mason

Posted February 21, 2001 - 07:40 PM

#7

I have installed no less than 10 BD kits and on the older BD kits I always wired the FET out of the circuit and used a SW for the head light. On my WZ420 I used the Yam SW. On some bike applications the ingition would interfer with the FET and trigger it, a real pain so I eliminated it from all kits. I used BD kits on ATK's, Huskys, Husabergs, XR's and KTM's. My newest BD kit for my 01 XR650R comes with a new style switch which has a on position for all but headlight, low beam and high beam---BD eliminated the FET, about time. The FET is just another part to break or malfunction I firmly recommend not using it at all in any BD kit.. The BD rectifier is a excellent unit and I believe BD had it made for them, not sure of this but the last time I talked with Allen I thought thats what he said but I was a few years ago. I'm a Electrical Engineer and not a mechnaical.

Robin if you must have a FET I think I might have one in my garage so e-mail me and if I find one I will send it to you. Its only collecting dust.

Clark

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  • robin_des_bois

Posted February 23, 2001 - 04:31 AM

#8

My brothier told me that his headlight doesn't turn off when the motor die so I thing the FET is included in the plan but the plan wasn't updated. I'll go with the general suggestion and not install a FET. I'll rather use the only on/off switch to connect or not the batterie to the whole system. In that way, lights will always be turned on but I'll have the choice to load the batterie or not.
In city I'll load the batterie to still have current at idle for flashers and horn and in wood I'll unpplug the batterie so everything will work as the original.

Anybody see a problem to always have the lights on? If there is no problem having the lights always on, why do Yamaha place a on/off switch on their bikes?

Robin

  • Clark_Mason

Posted February 23, 2001 - 05:26 PM

#9

Robin

The reason to keep the battery in the circuit at least the regulator side of the circuit is so the battery will charge while the engine is running. The WR does not put out that much juice and the biggest load is the head light. If you switch the ground or power side of the head light on and off you can easily control how much juice is available to charge the battery. Do not install a headlight bulb larger than a 35/35 watt halogen H4. With a 35 watt headlight and the other loads the WR electrical system can just keep up as long as you switch of the head light when not needed. Make sure you use a nicad type battery as they can easily withstand may complete discharge and recharging cycles.

Clark

[This message has been edited by Clark Mason (edited 02-23-2001).]

  • fershy

Posted February 23, 2001 - 06:41 PM

#10

[ Do not install a headlight bulb larger than a 35/35 watt halogen H4. With a 35 watt headlight and the other loads the WR electrical system can just keep up as long as you switch of the head light when not needed. Make sure you use a nicad type battery as they can easily withstand may complete discharge and recharging cycles.

Clark

What other loads would we be talking about here Clarke? The 98's and 99's put out 80 watts of juice. The stock headlight consumes
55 watts, rear running light 5 watts, and the brake light 21 watts. Under normal circumstances you should only be drawing 55W and 5W on the tail light = 60 Watts. that leaves you with 20 watts to spare. Now okay, the horn is going to use some juice but not that often. (I hope!) The biggest event on the charging system is going to be running the relay for the flashers for the signals, as well as the 42 Watts to light up the front and rear signals. To my way of thinking that the worst case scenario is when you are braking, signaling will put you in a deficit postion albeit temporarily. Let's hope you needn't use the horn as well! Here is where you battery is called upon for its reserve. I am not exactly sure what the power requirements is for a mechanical relay but I know it has got to be up there? A digital relay on the other has to be more power friendly. 20Watts?(I am still scouring the junkyards for one of these!)Surely one can run the stock 60W/55W on low beam and have enough to power all these other goodies?

I don't know because I have choosen to run a quasi AC/DC system on my WR for the time being. The glorious day when I buck up for the Baja Designs HID system that will have to change! In the mean time I run the horn, signal, and relay using a Powersonic Gel Cell (PS 1208) that is conveniently recharged via Battery Tender Jr which plugs directly into my wiring harness. It may not pass one of those US mandated "Your battery has to be of capacity to run your headlights for 20 minutes with the engine shut off requirements." No requirement like that up here in Alberta, Canada. It is more than enough to signal and tout my horn during a full days ride though.
fershy

  • Clark_Mason

Posted February 24, 2001 - 03:11 PM

#11

Yes yes I did the math to and expected the stock setup to support the system with a 50/55 watt bulb--but it did not. Battery always ran out of juice if I ran the headlight on line with everything else. The problem is not the amount of potential the stock setup can produce it where in the rpm range it gets produced. The WR has a small diameter flywheel and inside is a small diameter set of winding poles. This means that the stocker has to be making some RPM to generate the same juice as a lager diamaeter system or have more poles or have more windings per pole.

If I run at race speeds ok if I run at dual sport speeds the battery is drained after a couple of hours. Mine would not even keep up with a 35/35 set up without switching off the head light when not needed. I rewound my stator (more windings) and it now will support a 35/35 watt head light without turining off the headlight but it will not support a 55 watt set up at normal street riding RPM for more than an hour or two before battery starts going flat.

This is my experience, in discussions with Baja Designs this is also theirs. Maybe I just have the odd ball WR.

Clark

  • fershy

Posted March 09, 2001 - 08:59 AM

#12

Originally posted by Clark Mason:

If I run at race speeds ok if I run at dual sport speeds the battery is drained after a couple of hours. Mine would not even keep up with a 35/35 set up without switching off the head light when not needed. I rewound my stator (more windings) and it now will support a 35/35 watt head light without turining off the headlight but it will not support a 55 watt set up at normal street riding RPM for more than an hour or two before battery starts going flat.

This is my experience, in discussions with Baja Designs this is also theirs. Maybe I just have the odd ball WR.

Clark


Clarke you mean to say you had Baja Designs put more windings on your coil and it still can not keep up with your 55W headlight? That sounds like something is amiss. What is the rewind good for? 125 Watts? Perhaps the Nicads have went flat? With that kind of output the system should be able to generate a positive reserve even at idle. I'd be POed if I rewound and could not run the stock bulb.
fershy

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted March 09, 2001 - 12:56 PM

#13

My experiences agree with Clark. I'm using a new style (no FET) BD kit with stock stator output. I replaced my tail/brake lights with 4 white LEDs to try to reduce power drain -2 always on, 2 brake. (I'm using the Acerbis enduro tail light, no license plate light, on a YZ rear fender.) I also have my GPS, which normally runs off of 4 AA batteries, wired to run off the BD battery. If I use the 35/35 headlight and the GPS together, I have to rev the engine to get the turn signals to work. If I don't have the GPS connected, the turn signals work a little better, but I still have to rev the engine sometimes. I tried the 55/60 headlight, but I can't get the turn signal to activate after just a few minutes of riding, regardless of engine speed. However, if I didn't care about turn signals, I'd be using the 55/60 all the time.

  • techman

Posted March 09, 2001 - 04:23 PM

#14

Hi Guys,
I've got the E-Line coil on my YZ and it uses a BD 2-wire regulator a snowmobile AC "regulator" (that's what BD ships too, I matched the part). My headlights vary incredibly with revs. I fried my NiCad by overcharging (that's the theory) and now need to put in a charge current limiting resistor parallel to a battery-outflow diode to save the next pack. I fullwave rectified to dc, onto a capacitor and also the battery. Basicly, below mid-rpm there isn't enough volts to charge a 12V battery, so that's why they go flat.

I suggest running the horn, tail light, brake light and maybe signals off the battery and run the headlight isolated from the battery, off the alternator. The battery could be connected to the coil via diode(s)/rectifier/regulator, and the headlight separately directly connected to the coil with one of those 2-wire "regulators" paralleled to it. That way, your headlight would never be a direct draw on the battery, only the smaller loads would be. The normal small load would be 8W tail light or 8+23W if you hold the brake. 55W headlight@12V is over 4 amps! no wonder! 8W is only 2/3 amp, very sustainable.

In passing, I now run 185W of lights at night! Yeeeehaw! works great.

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted March 09, 2001 - 07:48 PM

#15

I have the sames experience as Orlando. I have an older BD kit (without headlight ON/OFF switch) and need more power. I have changed to LED front signals mounted to the hand gaurds and thinking of doing the rears and using the 1157 LED replacement bulb. I am hoping this will help with my almost always dead batery. I liked the 55/60 blue H4 but I now use the weak 35W. Still have a dead bat.




 
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