My newly dual-sported WR450


16 replies to this topic
  • minion

Posted May 15, 2005 - 12:02 PM

#1

Thought I'd share this with everyone. I recently dual sported by '05 WR450. It cost me about $170 in parts, and I went overkill on what was required. Indiana only requires a head light, tail light, and brake light. I added a horn, and turn signals as well. I also ordered a keyed ignition for it, but haven't had the time to install that yet.

Either way, here are some pics of the bike:

http://www.madsquirr...ke/IMG_1274.JPG
http://www.madsquirr...ke/IMG_1276.JPG
http://www.madsquirr...ke/IMG_1277.JPG
http://www.madsquirr...ke/IMG_1280.jpg

Yeah, the last picture has some blurr'ed out stuff - couldn't have ya see my POS truck ruining a nice looking WR. :)

  • cgun

Posted May 15, 2005 - 12:14 PM

#2

I'm going to add turn signals as well. I like how you did yours. How about a parts list and some close up shots of the turn signal installation and switch.

  • Texas4play

Posted May 15, 2005 - 12:55 PM

#3

Nice set up , good job

  • minion

Posted May 15, 2005 - 03:47 PM

#4

I'm going to add turn signals as well. I like how you did yours. How about a parts list and some close up shots of the turn signal installation and switch.


Well, I don't have close up pics for ya yet, but here is the parts list, all ordered from www.4strokesonly.com

Part #44-0077
10X1.25 mm fits most (fits nissin plus others master cylinders) japanese models of on - off road motorcycle and atvs. Head of banjo bolt is 14mm, wire length is 20" long with male bullet connectors. Fits: Front and rear master cylinders where clearence allows.

Part #44-0253
WR 450F 2003-2005 Billet License Plate Holder = LPH Bolts to stock taillight mounts

Part #44-0085
Switches Kill/Keyed Ignition Switch Universal Fit. Fits most dirt bikes (Electric Start models.) No kick start bikes

Part #44-0086
Turn Signal Flasher 12V 10 Watt HD

Part #44-0219
TS Switch Universal. Headlight hi-lo, Turn signal L-R push to cancel center, Horn push, 3 position rocker switch, headlight/parking light on off + includes hi beam indicator light in blue, Kill switch. Type 4 Euro Honda Fireblade. Switch Width = 46mm

Part #44-0656
Marker light low profile mini triangle with amber lens, clear std incandescent blub. Mounts 1' above body part, front or rear of machine. Dim 2 1/4 X 1 1/4 (3/4 taper to 1 1/4) wires come out the large end. Mfg #25-340 (Non DOT)

Part #44-0263
Flush Mount Turn Signal Type 2 with socket, bulb & wires. and or replacement part for oregon headlight with built in signals.

Part # 44-0032
Horn 12V DC 1.0 amp 72mm size. Zinc coated silver color

I also used quite a bit of wire, heat shrink tubing, quick-connector spades, something called 'liquid tape', and solder.

The lights on my WR450 were all A/C. I converted everything to run off of D/C. Doing that allowed me to wire my switch to allow 'no lights', 'tail and brake only', or 'everything'.. I also bought an inline fuse from an auto parts store.

Hope that helps some.

M.

  • PBDBLUE

Posted May 15, 2005 - 04:17 PM

#5

Did you modify the DC stator? In stock form the DC circuit on the bike does not have enough capacity to run the lights, particularly the headlight. I think you will find yourself with a dead battery shortly if you run much with the headlight on. The early Baja Designs kits for the 450's used this scheme and quickly went away from it after a mountain of problems.

  • cgun

Posted May 15, 2005 - 07:24 PM

#6

Great list,thanks! I'm guessing you used the 44-0656 lights on the front and 44-0263 on the rear?

  • minion

Posted May 15, 2005 - 08:29 PM

#7

Great list,thanks! I'm guessing you used the 44-0656 lights on the front and 44-0263 on the rear?


Other way around actually.

  • minion

Posted May 15, 2005 - 08:31 PM

#8

Did you modify the DC stator? In stock form the DC circuit on the bike does not have enough capacity to run the lights, particularly the headlight. I think you will find yourself with a dead battery shortly if you run much with the headlight on. The early Baja Designs kits for the 450's used this scheme and quickly went away from it after a mountain of problems.


No I didn't modify the stator, but from my meter readings to the battery, the voltage was higher with the bike running and the lights on, than with the bike off and no lights on. Maybe I'm mixed up here, but wouldn't that suggest that the stator is keeping up with the demand?

M.

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  • PBDBLUE

Posted May 16, 2005 - 06:08 AM

#9

Is the voltage higher than about 12.6 volts all the time (i.e. - at idle and low rpm's)? That's about the minimum it takes to keep the battery from beginning to discharge. Do a search on dual sporting the WR450. There were a lot of posts awhile back regarding this problem. In the end a lot of guys went with AC for the lights. I think the newer BD kits as well as others may have gone this route as well.

  • beakr

Posted May 16, 2005 - 06:44 AM

#10

Nice job, minion. :D I've been looking for just this setup for my '04. Thanks for the parts list too. Along the lines of the AC / DC issue, why didn't you leave the headlight and tail/brake light on AC, and put the additional horn and turn signals on DC? Maybe that is the best of both worlds? :) I don't suppose you'd include your wiring diagrams to go with the parts list, would you? :)

  • minion

Posted May 16, 2005 - 06:51 PM

#11

Nice job, minion. :D I've been looking for just this setup for my '04. Thanks for the parts list too. Along the lines of the AC / DC issue, why didn't you leave the headlight and tail/brake light on AC, and put the additional horn and turn signals on DC? Maybe that is the best of both worlds? :) I don't suppose you'd include your wiring diagrams to go with the parts list, would you? :)


The handlebar switch I bought is only a ground interrupter - less wires to run, but that makes the entire system require DC. It would be a mess of wires to have a double-pole, single throw switch for every hookup.

You wouldn't want my wiring diagram. :worthy: Its messy, but it works. Just make sure you fuse it - it'd be bad to have a wire short out and kill your battery, stator, and perhaps even blow up the battery. (bad since you sit on that.) :D

As PBDBlue said,

Is the voltage higher than about 12.6 volts all the time (i.e. - at idle and low rpm's)? That's about the minimum it takes to keep the battery from beginning to discharge. Do a search on dual sporting the WR450. There were a lot of posts awhile back regarding this problem. In the end a lot of guys went with AC for the lights. I think the newer BD kits as well as others may have gone this route as well.


I need to recheck and make the voltage is high enough. If it isn't, I may try to figure out how to join both sides of the stator, or enlist the help of trailtech - I seen a post from them saying they do that, but I didn't see that service on their webpage.

  • PBDBLUE

Posted May 16, 2005 - 07:23 PM

#12

Actually you can wire the headlight to AC using one relay to control Hi/Low beam and still utilize your handlebar switch if you don't mind it always being on when the engine is running. BTW - I didn't mean to rain on your parade. Your light setup looks great. Just trying to save you a little grief is all.

  • moleculo

Posted May 16, 2005 - 09:02 PM

#13

Did you modify the DC stator? In stock form the DC circuit on the bike does not have enough capacity to run the lights, particularly the headlight. I think you will find yourself with a dead battery shortly if you run much with the headlight on. The early Baja Designs kits for the 450's used this scheme and quickly went away from it after a mountain of problems.

This is the BD story. The first BD kits for the 450 were set up to run the headlight off of the AC output from the stator. The taillight, signals, & horn were run DC backed up by the battery. A relay was used to allow the high/low function of the handlebar switch to switch the separate AC headlight circuit. Since the 5W tailight was the only constant draw on the DC side of the system, the battery could still charge. Sounds like an okay design, but many guys were having problems with headlight bulbs blowing as a result of regulator failure. To solve this problem the kit was changed to run all DC so the headlight voltage couldn't exceed the battery voltage. This solved the bulb blowing problem but then guys that ran their headlight for more than a couple hours would discharge their battery even with a 35W bulb. To fix this, BD started doing the stator mod. Once the two stator outputs are joined (and the rectifier/regulator is replaced with either BD or Trailtech unit) the whole lighting system can be run DC with a 55W bulb (or HID) and the battery will still charge. This is the current set up and it works good.

  • minion

Posted May 17, 2005 - 06:39 AM

#14

Actually you can wire the headlight to AC using one relay to control Hi/Low beam and still utilize your handlebar switch if you don't mind it always being on when the engine is running. BTW - I didn't mean to rain on your parade. Your light setup looks great. Just trying to save you a little grief is all.


No, you didn't rain on my parade. I'd rather have constructive critism that may save me grief, than just a lot of nods. I'm not a bike expert, heck, half the reason for posting the pics is to get some feedback on how to do it better. :D That way we all learn, and maybe I'd serve as an example for others here - either a bad example or a good one. :)

When I get around to testing the voltage output again, I'll let ya know what it is. If it isn't sufficient, I'm probably going to get the trail tech rectifier, and join both sides of the stator together. Unless someone has a better idea. :) But my main reason for getting the bike plated wasn't to be a primary road bike, I have one of those, it was to be 'legal enough' to hop between trails and get from trail A to trail B without having to load the bike up in my truck. Plus, full coverage insurance is cheaper than carrying theft insurance by itself. Much cheaper. Even with plate costs included.

  • PBDBLUE

Posted May 17, 2005 - 09:12 AM

#15

I'm not sure why the BD kit would blow out lamps since the stock electrical system is set up to run the headlight/tailight off of AC and it doesn't seem to blow lights. Basically all you're adding is turn signals, brake light and horn. None of those continuously operate or present much of a load. I would think if you use the stock regulator/rectifier it should work. ????

  • Dirtmizer

Posted May 17, 2005 - 04:36 PM

#16

Looks good I especially like the low profile turn signals, very cool.

  • minion

Posted May 21, 2005 - 06:44 PM

#17

I'm not sure why the BD kit would blow out lamps since the stock electrical system is set up to run the headlight/tailight off of AC and it doesn't seem to blow lights. Basically all you're adding is turn signals, brake light and horn. None of those continuously operate or present much of a load. I would think if you use the stock regulator/rectifier it should work. ????


I measured my electrical output today. 12.4 without the bike running, 13.6 with the bike running (no lights), and 13.2 with all the lights on.

I was also mistaken - I left the head light A/C. I guess there was enough wires for the headlamp assembly to switch both the pos and neg in the switch. (See what happens when you spend an evening wiring your bike with beer?) :)




 
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