More 650 questions??


14 replies to this topic
  • Bigbopper

Posted April 06, 2005 - 12:34 PM

#1

As mentioned in my previous post, I am in the middle of replacing the wheel bearings and seals. In one of my not so wise moments, I poped the bearings out of the hubs and neglected to pay attention to which way they were oriented. They are sealed on one side, and I need to know if the seal faces out or in? It makes the most sense to me that the seal is on the side that faces towards the centre of the hub, and the outer part between the outer seal and bearing by packed with grease?
I was also wondering about oil viscosity. The manual says 20w50 for most climates and 10w40 for colder. I am a fair weather rider, and not interested in riding in cold. Are most of you guys running 10w40?

Thanks Guys!!

BB

  • froride1

Posted April 06, 2005 - 02:53 PM

#2

I have always run 20w50 in mine but I live in California so it isn't very cold. Either will probably work fine.

  • hill5150

Posted April 06, 2005 - 03:23 PM

#3

same here 20w 50 works great but you have some colder climates so you may need a different grade..............

  • AzMtnThumper

Posted April 06, 2005 - 09:37 PM

#4

I'm pretty sure the bearing seals go towards the outside of the hub. At least that's how I put them in my 600 when I changed them (did pack the other side with grease before installing them). I checked the downloadable version of the 650R service manual and it did not specifically say (p 15-7). I think the Pivot Works bearings I used had instructions???

I use the HP4 (without moly) 10-40 in the winter (generally less than 60 degrees F) and 20-50 in the summer.

  • Bigbopper

Posted April 06, 2005 - 10:51 PM

#5

Thanks for the info, I think I will run 20w50 Castrol M/C oil, as I really never ride in cold weather.
I am still a little confused about the bearings. The reason I'm not sure, is that the aluminum outer bearing spacers on the rear wheel were completely grooved by the seal, as though they were lacking grease. The steel front spacer even showed signs of wear caused by the seal. That's why I thought maybe the seal went towards the centre of the hub, and the outer area between the seal and the bearing should be packed with grease??
Has anyone used bearings that are sealed on both sides? :naughty:

BB

  • Hop

Posted April 07, 2005 - 11:13 AM

#6

The new bearings I have and am about to put in are sealed on both sides. I have not removed the old ones yet but they have a seal on the outer side I can see. What did you use to get the old ones out?

  • frankstr

Posted April 07, 2005 - 01:24 PM

#7

The open side will probly go towards the inside, Pack them with a good water proof grease...........
I use 20/50 unless I'm riding below freezing temp's then 10/40 will work... :naughty:

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  • AzMtnThumper

Posted April 08, 2005 - 04:45 AM

#8

The aluminum wheel spacers are notorius for gettig grooved over time. If they are too bad it might be wise to get some new ones.

  • mikekay

Posted April 08, 2005 - 10:55 AM

#9

bearing seals outside.
you can buy your bearings from any bearing place for a lot cheaper. the 6204 is probably the most common bearing on earth.

  • Bigbopper

Posted April 08, 2005 - 11:41 PM

#10

Well, I ended up getting all the bearings from Napa for about $30 total. I went with sealed both side bearings, and put some waterproof grease between the bearing and the outer seal to help prevent the new aluminum spacers from wearing. I disassembled the steering bearings, replaced the seals and repacked with waterproof grease. Rebuilding the swingarm and linkage will have to wait until the fall.
I still have to change the oil and finish cleaning it up, but so far it's coming along nicely.
To get the old bearings out, I used a 3/8"x 8" bolt with the hex rounded off. Put the head end of the 3/8 bolt into the axle hole, close to the bearing on the opposite side and tap the 3/8 bolt gently sideways. That will move the bearing spacer slightly sideways and give you enough contact with the bearing to tap it out. Make sure to hit the bearing all the way around to prevent it from jamming and damaging the hub.

Thanks for all the help!
BB

  • AzMtnThumper

Posted April 09, 2005 - 05:10 AM

#11

I highly reccomend ripping the back apart and greasing the swingarm and link NOW. Mine had not been ridden much when I bought it and I still had to hammer the singarm pivot bolt out. Otherwise, sounds like you're coming along nicely.

  • Bigbopper

Posted April 09, 2005 - 08:26 AM

#12

Man, you guilted me into it! I'll try and find time over the next week, I just have to make the tool for the preload adjuster first.
Any thing else I should do?

Cheers...
BB

  • AzMtnThumper

Posted April 09, 2005 - 12:24 PM

#13

Check out the right footpeg bolts, check the condition and torque. Then read up at the Pig Pen Then ride, ride, ride... :naughty:

  • thumper447

Posted April 09, 2005 - 03:34 PM

#14

Man, you guilted me into it! I'll try and find time over the next week, I just have to make the tool for the preload adjuster first.
Any thing else I should do?

Cheers...
BB


You need to make two tools for the lock nut on the swingarm pivot bolt. I used an 1 1/16" socket (I think) and one smaller, like 7/8" for the smaller one. Then take your dremel equipped w/ a flat cutting disc and cut out four fingers about 8mm wide and 4mm deep that will fit the lock nut. The smaller lock nut is hidden behind the head of the bolt, but will be used for assembly. Just find a socket to fit snuggly into the frame hole and remember to cut the fingers a few mm longer than desired and trim them fit. (You can take off but not add on.) Or you can always just buy the tool from Honda!! Don't forget the saftey glasses. If you don't grease now, you'll be buying bearings and possibly linkage, etc later.

  • KeithBoyd

Posted April 10, 2005 - 01:36 AM

#15

My swingarm had never been done until last week...(7000kms)..I had to order two pivot bushings as mine were showing signs of some pitting and rust...the needle bearings were OK...just got them in time.....I also ordered 2 extra dust seals to put in each frame side of the swingarm because there`s a space for them(and they`re not fitted as standard)...I also gingerly tapped my preloaded spacer at the swingarm with a blunt flat punch,just to see, and was able to find that it loosened off just nicely with hardly any flattening of the castilations on the spacer!!!...it was tightened up the same way after that(its not a big torque needed)...I figured that a new preload spacer would be easier to order along with the dust seals and pivots than making the tools needed!!!....also see my thread on the oil screen debris when changing your oil....all info gleaned from this and the Pig Pen website....also ordered 2 bolts for the footpeg as,yes,they were bent!!....Good Luck...





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