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Finally out of Mobile 1 Red Cap, what's next...

By MaxAZ,
in YZ400F/426F/450F/450FX

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MaxAZ

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I finished off all my Red Cap and now it's time for another oil change and I can't decide what to use. I'm tempted to run the Shell Rotella syn but it's only 5w40 and it's going to start getting hot here so I'm not sure if I should run less than 50. I had a gallon of the Mobile 1 ext perf green cap that I was going to use but changed my mind. I'm feeding that stuff to my lawn mower and pressure washer just to use it up. After it's gone, I think I'm done with Mobile. Seems like they intentionally screwed us by dumping Red Cap to force us into their motorcycle products and I'm not gonna bite.

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SeaBass44

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I am going to dino rotella T, been using gold cap since red is gone, but I change oil every ride anyway, all my buds run dino, all over 20 years:)

& it's like $7 a gallon at wallmart, been paying $6 a qt, but $ is not a factor, the motor is;)

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MaxAZ

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If Amsoil wasn't such a pain in the rear to get ahold of, let alone at a decent price, I'd probably go that way but I really like just running to the local Walmart or AutoZone and grabbing a quart or gallon as needed. Problem is, I want to pick another oil and stick with it. I don't like alternating oil brands from one oil change to the next. If I go with Amsoil now, what will happen is an oil change will sneak up on me where I've got to go riding the next morning and I'm out of Amsoil. Where can you get that stuff at 9 PM or on 30 minutes notice? Same for the Yamalube stuff, the local dealers don't operate under hours that are always convenient. What about Castrol sythetic? Don't they have a syn oil that won't hurt the clutch?

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SeaBass44

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If Amsoil wasn't such a pain in the rear to get ahold of, let alone at a decent price, I'd probably go that way but I really like just running to the local Walmart or AutoZone and grabbing a quart or gallon as needed. Problem is, I want to pick another oil and stick with it. I don't like alternating oil brands from one oil change to the next. If I go with Amsoil now, what will happen is an oil change will sneak up on me where I've got to go riding the next morning and I'm out of Amsoil. Where can you get that stuff at 9 PM or on 30 minutes notice? Same for the Yamalube stuff, the local dealers don't operate under hours that are always convenient. What about Castrol sythetic? Don't they have a syn oil that won't hurt the clutch?

exactly :naughty: I change oil every ride, & was using red cap$5 a qt, then gold last 4 trips $6 a qt, now I'm just foing with castrol dino, even gas stations have it or something close in case of an xtream emergency. :naughty: sure it cost alot less too, but that is not a factor to me.

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fatnugget

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Has anybody tried the semi synthetic from Bel Ray? I put it in my bike on the last oil change. The color of it was odd (very orange looking) but it did make reading the level on the dipstick easy. And price wasn't bad $2.99 I think from Rocky Mountain MC.

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MaxAZ

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I don't think anybody's run the extended performance long enough to determine that anyhow. And I really don't know how long you'd have to run it to determine if it was safe either. I know what you meant about 'not reading the post' too, well I've been known to have to eat my words in the past so I probably shouldn't say things like 'no more Mobile 1'. The specs may or may not say it's better but the proof I'm looking for is long term use that stands up. I just built the top end on my motor late last year and I'm not to willing to try something that's not proven yet. Then again, I guess it's the clutch we're more worried about than anything isn't it?

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Grand Master

WheelsUp

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I don't think anybody's run the extended performance long enough to determine that anyhow. And I really don't know how long you'd have to run it to determine if it was safe either.

Given that the issue is clutch slippage, I would suspect that you'll know as soon as you ride.

It WILL hold up... it is a quality oil. There's never been a question over if it's fine in the crankcase of a Honda or other engine with a separate oiling system for the tranny/clutch.

The issue is one of whether or not it will make your clutch slip.

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ovrrdrive

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I know what you meant about 'not reading the post' too, we

Actually, my comment was directed to resslera because he posted an almost exact copy of my post earlier a few above his... That's usually a dead giveaway that someone read the first post, replied, then bailed on the thread.

Personally, when I heard red cap was going south, I bought 2 jugs of it at Walmart that night. I figure they will last long enough for a firm opinion to be formed about the new stuff.

I too have too much money tied up in this beast... :naughty:

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resslera

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No, actually i didn't post earlier but someone else did referring to my other post in the General section.

I'm just trying to spread the info that the new blend isn't all that different besides an increase in the good stuff and a very mild increase in moly content (69 to 75 or something?) I can't see that stuff all of a sudden making a clutch slip. Others are talking about a decrease in Zinc Phohphorous in the new stuff but that went up too.

I'm in the same boat you all are. I bough a jug of the "red cap" which will carry me through the summer and then I'm trying the new stuff and I don't expect a diffence. People are already running this without a problem. Search around.

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MaxAZ

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Like I mentioned earlier, when the time comes for an oil change the night before a ride, I need oil right now that I can get my hands on quick. Well Saturday night rolled around and suddenly I had to change my oil right now for a ride on Sunday. I really didn't even have time to run to a store and try and get the Rotella so since that gallon of Mobile 1 Extended Performance I bought 6 weeks ago was still sitting on the bench I went for it. I'm happy to say that there was no clutch slippage or odor. Sometimes a clutch can smell if it doesn't like the oil. I guess if it didn't slip on this ride it should be a good enough oil. We went through about 2 1/2 hours of extremely difficult technical single track riding with tons of rock and moderate hill climbs where I was constantly having to intentionally slip the clutch with the lever. I rode the crap out of it and it seemed ok right up until I tried to turn the bike into a submarine. We'd been crossing deep water all day and I figured if I just hit it hard enough I could carry across. That water hole didn't actually look that deep but the exhaust actually went under before I even hit the bottom. It's actually hard to hang on when you're that deep, kind of like getting up on a water ski with the water pushing back at you. I thought I was going to make it for awhile there but once the air box fills up and floods through the air filter, you're done. Took some time to get moving again, you know, remove air filter and ring it out, stand the bike upside down and drain it and then kick it until your leg is falling off. Then let your buddy kick it some too. I found it would start and idle pretty soon but you couldn't rev it because I guess there was water in the accelerator pump or somewhere else but after about 1/2 an hour we were rolling again. So since I submerged the whole bike I changed the oil again this morning and found it to be clear of any water. The oil looked good, slightly discolored but good enough that I put some more of the same back in for the next ride. So I guess for now, I'll be one of the people testing out this oil and I'll post if I find any problems. Next time I'll find a stick or something to see how deep the water is.

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