Valve Adjustment


26 replies to this topic
  • XR4DEZ

Posted March 19, 2005 - 08:24 PM

#1

Can anyone recommend a good article on adjusting the valves on the 650R?Step by step with some good pics would be nice. thanx

  • jws

Posted March 19, 2005 - 08:33 PM

#2

Can anyone recommend a good article on adjusting the valves on the 650R?Step by step with some good pics would be nice. thanx



http://www.off-road..../XR650ValveAdj/


jeff :)

  • 600ish

Posted March 19, 2005 - 08:34 PM

#3

Try this www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tech/XR650ValveAdj/ :)

  • XR4DEZ

Posted March 19, 2005 - 08:50 PM

#4

Yep, that's what I was looking for, thank you.

  • justicedone

Posted March 20, 2005 - 02:30 PM

#5

AWESOME !!!

thats some great response...holy bat crap!

I have a 2003 XR650L that will need its first valve lash (I got 1200mi.)check very soon...can I get a similar link type thingy for my BRP ??? Please !

  • thumpasaurus

Posted March 21, 2005 - 07:05 AM

#6

Yours is exactly the same procedure, only easier. You have four big round access ports that are easier to get at. Also your specs are likely different. Probably the same as my 600R which, iirc, was .10mm intake and .12mm exhaust. best check though.

  • justicedone

Posted March 21, 2005 - 09:22 AM

#7

Sweet, gonna grab a manual most likey first (for futre use as well) and get er' done

thanks

  • XR4DEZ

Posted April 04, 2005 - 08:42 PM

#8

Why do you have to take off the side cover?Can't you use the site hole and turn the motor over with the kick starter to line up TDC?

  • Max Power

Posted April 04, 2005 - 09:13 PM

#9

Yep... Pop the seat and gas tank off.

Take the Intake and exhaust valve covers off.

Posted Image

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Remove the left crankcase cover.

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And turn the flywheel CCW a couple of times until you line up The top dead center marks.

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Refer to the manual for the specs.

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Adjust inlet valves to 0.15mm

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and Exhaust valves to 0.20mm

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Tighten all 4 lock nuts to 216 in/lbs. Re check clearances.

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Put all covers back on.

Put seat and gas tank on.

Open beer.

  • DualSport650

Posted April 04, 2005 - 11:00 PM

#10

OK, I tried to do the whole valve adjust thing to my old XR600 and didn't do it correctly. I knew it was wrong and immediately took it down to the local motorcycle shop for a professional job.

This looks so easy though, and I gotta learn to do it myself. Max Power's pics are easy to understand, except for this...

"Adjust inlet valves to 0.15mm and Exhaust valves to 0.20mm"

What do you do here, just stick that feeler guage thing in there, adjust the threaded thing down snug onto it, and tighten it to specs with the nut?

Maybe I shouldn't have started with the last step? (open beer) :naughty:

What's up? :naughty:

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  • Max Power

Posted April 05, 2005 - 06:42 AM

#11

OK, I tried to do the whole valve adjust thing to my old XR600 and didn't do it correctly. I knew it was wrong and immediately took it down to the local motorcycle shop for a professional job.

This looks so easy though, and I gotta learn to do it myself. Max Power's pics are easy to understand, except for this...

"Adjust inlet valves to 0.15mm and Exhaust valves to 0.20mm"

What do you do here, just stick that feeler guage thing in there, adjust the threaded thing down snug onto it, and tighten it to specs with the nut?

Maybe I shouldn't have started with the last step? (open beer) :naughty:

What's up? :naughty:


You should find a copy of the shop manual for your bike because the clearances may be different. My numbers are for the XR650R. Below is the instructions for adjusting the valve. Hope that helps.


Posted Image

  • qadsan

Posted April 05, 2005 - 06:57 AM

#12

...
What do you do here, just stick that feeler guage thing in there, adjust the threaded thing down snug onto it, and tighten it to specs with the nut?...

First measure your clearance to see what it is. Try various feeler gauges within that range until you get one that slides in there with just a 'little' drag on it. Once you know your clearances, write it down in a book if you want to keep a working history of your bike.

After you make an adjustment, check it to make sure it's within spec. Don't just snug the adjustment screw down on the feeler gauge and expect it to be perfect. If you snug it down too much onto the feeler gauge, you may damage the feeler gauge and defeat your purpose. I simply make my adjustment without the feeler gauge in there and then use the feeler gauge to determine whether I need further adjustment or not.

Make sure your engine is at TDC on the compression stroke when checking / adjusting and also make sure you engine is stone cold, otherwise your checks and adjustments will not not be accurate.

  • zx7rye

Posted April 05, 2005 - 10:12 AM

#13

....as for feeler gauges, I would recommend the 8" long feeler. Anything smaller and your hands can start getting in the way. (just realized what I just said can be taken a totally different way....LOL!!!!). The only other recommendation I can make is to be 100% that you are lining up your timing marks correctly....and on the compression stroke. Take out the spark plug and use it as a qauge to whether your compressing (you'll actually have a hard time turning the motor over if you leave the plug in anyway...).

BTW, the shop manual gives clearance values both in mm and inch! I bought mine off ebay. It is a bootleg copy of an original and came bound. Nice piece and the pics are fairly clear given it is a photocopy. :naughty:

  • kyleproject

Posted April 06, 2005 - 10:07 PM

#14

Man - I'm having a fun time doing the first adjustment on my used 650R. I adjusted them last night after taking some initial readings (they were all tightening up) and when I had everything back together, the thing started ticking very loudly. I then remembered it had a stage 2 hotcam in it so maybe the valve clearances were different? Nope, not the case. As far I can tell, I'm doing everything by the book. The mark on the rotor lines up with that on the crankcase and I believe I'm on the compression stroke. There is play in the rocker arms and when I pulled the plug and stuck a pen down the throat I hit the piston a couple inches down. I tried it all again tonight with the same results. The only thing I can think of that would give me a bad reading is the play in the rocker arm. Should I be pushing it down towards the valve and then measuring the clearance or something?

I also adjusted the manual decompressor cable (I took up quite a bit of slack), not sure if that would have an effect on it - I'm new to this dirtbike kickstarting stuff, heh.

I'm quite frustrated, I almost wish it was as complex as my GSXR with the shim under bucket (not to mention another 12 valves). At least I can do that one right :naughty:

  • Miker

Posted April 06, 2005 - 11:16 PM

#15

Sounds like you made the adjustments with the auto decompressor ingaged. Did you have to loosen one of the exhaust valves quite a bit to get it into spec? If you did this there will be an bunch of play while running causing a lot of valvetrain ticking. I think that is why you rotate the engine backwards, listen for the clank of the decompressor to release then move slightly to get to tdc and adjust.

  • TimBrp

Posted April 07, 2005 - 03:00 AM

#16

Just keep in mind that the 650R motor makes ALOT of racket. Especially if you have an aluminum skid(magnifies sounds).

  • Max Power

Posted April 07, 2005 - 07:02 AM

#17

Man - I'm having a fun time doing the first adjustment on my used 650R. I adjusted them last night after taking some initial readings (they were all tightening up) and when I had everything back together, the thing started ticking very loudly. I then remembered it had a stage 2 hotcam in it so maybe the valve clearances were different? Nope, not the case. As far I can tell, I'm doing everything by the book. The mark on the rotor lines up with that on the crankcase and I believe I'm on the compression stroke. There is play in the rocker arms and when I pulled the plug and stuck a pen down the throat I hit the piston a couple inches down. I tried it all again tonight with the same results. The only thing I can think of that would give me a bad reading is the play in the rocker arm. Should I be pushing it down towards the valve and then measuring the clearance or something?

I also adjusted the manual decompressor cable (I took up quite a bit of slack), not sure if that would have an effect on it - I'm new to this dirtbike kickstarting stuff, heh.

I'm quite frustrated, I almost wish it was as complex as my GSXR with the shim under bucket (not to mention another 12 valves). At least I can do that one right :naughty:


This doesn't sound right.

To trouble shoot this I would:

1. Put the slack (you took out) back into the decompression cable.

I agree with Miker. I also think you made the adjustments with the auto decompresser engaged.

2. It is important to turn the flywheel by hand CCW at least a couple of times. You should hear a "clink" noise. After you hear the noise continue turning until you line up the TDC marks. Make sure it is Piston TDC. If you pass the TDC marks you have repeat 2.

3. Now take your readings.

When I take my readings I dont't recall any play in the rocker arm. :naughty:

  • kyleproject

Posted April 07, 2005 - 07:37 AM

#18

I agree with Miker. I also think you made the adjustments with the auto decompresser engaged.


I thought the hotcams cam didn't have the auto decomp on them so how could this be an issue?

I'll take off my skid plate, put the slack back in the manual decomp cable and check again. Thanks for your help!

  • kyleproject

Posted April 07, 2005 - 07:39 AM

#19

When I take my readings I don't recall any play in the rocker arm.



The article above says there should be a bit play :naughty:

  • Max Power

Posted April 07, 2005 - 08:16 AM

#20

I thought the hotcams cam didn't have the auto decomp on them so how could this be an issue?


Ahhhh.....Good point. Disregard the above. Maybe someone that has a stage 2 hot cam will comment.

Keep us posted with what you find.





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