650r forkin oil

6 replies to this topic
  • rzm

Posted March 07, 2005 - 03:07 PM


Dang.....read all the hub about the stock fork oil in the 650r....and.....holy s :) t the description was right on....it really is whale snot!!!....where do they get this stuff??? and why would Honda put it in my forks???

The steering stem bearings looked like the assembly dude dribbled a drop or two of motor oil on each one....linkage bearings were well greased though

Glad I only took one short ride on my bike before checking this stuff

One question for the fork specialists out there:
After the forks were back together and installed I checked the rebound settings on the cap. One was at the stock setting, 9 out, but the other was at 15 out. When I put both at 9 the adjuster screw for the fork that was at 15 was much deeper in the cap than the other. Maybe thats why it was at 15 out, to match the level of the other?? Both forks went back together the same way. What causes the screws to be at different heights? Is it a problem?

  • bigtom17

Posted March 07, 2005 - 04:07 PM


Going back you your greasing the linkage. Did you lube the long bolt for the swingarm which ties into the linkage. Mine failed 80 miles into an 84 mile desert ISDE. It cut the bolt and ripped apart my linkage and swingarm something awful. Water gets in these as well so check them evey so often. Don't have an answer about the screws. Mine don't look like that I don't think.

  • frankstr

Posted March 07, 2005 - 06:54 PM


Yeah, When I found out about honda's grease job I had to replace the headset brng's due to rust :) Job slacker's :)

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  • BWB63

Posted March 07, 2005 - 08:43 PM


To answer your important question first.
When you are installing the fork cap to the rebound rod, you must screw the lock nut all the way down on the rod first. Then tighten the cap on the rod till it is tight (stops). Holding the rod from turning is important to make sure the cap is all the way down, then screw the lock nut up against the bottom of the cap and tighten them against each other to lock them together. One of your caps are not all the way down and that is why they are not the same. Happens all the time. Once you re-do-it all will be well.

The stock fork oil has some animal oil in it (whale oil?) On the long trip over on a boat the air inside the forks (salt air from being put together on an island?) mix's with the oil and rusts the rebound rod. Then you ride the bike for a while and the whale oil turns to snot. I have found one new fork setup that did not have but a real small spot of rust on the rebound rod. All the rest (lots) have had lots of rust, some pitted real bad.

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  • rzm

Posted March 08, 2005 - 08:42 AM


Cool....I will pull off the cap and tighten it up. I didn't see any rust on the rod. Do you see it mostly at the top of the rod above the oil level? Thanks for the good info here and on your site!

I lucked out in the shock area....my rear wheel assembly dude/chick must have had a good lunch just before my bike rolled by

  • BWB63

Posted March 08, 2005 - 06:17 PM


The rust is down about half way.

  • rzm

Posted March 12, 2005 - 10:04 PM


Help!......I turn the lock nut on the rod finger tight like the book says. Then, I hold the lock nut with the 17 while turning the cap down on the rod. It works fine till it's about a 1/4" away from touching the lock nut, then it turns the whole rod with the cap which loosens the lock nut. If I keep turning the lock nut will snug against the cap but now the lock nut isn't tight on the rod. How do I keep the lock nut tight on the rod while I screw on the cap?

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