Need to play w/rear hi-speed comp after spring change?

16 replies to this topic
  • DeltaT

Posted February 26, 2005 - 05:41 PM


Hi all,

I have an 04 wr450, and I changed the rear spring to a 5.8Kg about 3 weeks ago. Huge difference in handling, although some of it is due to the Mich S-12s I put on at the same time. My question is about shock adjustment changes after the spring change. I followed the manual and reduced lo-speed compression by 2 clicks, and increased rebound by 2 clicks. Eventually went another click lighter on the lo-speed compression for feel. I am getting a sense of 'bucking' on lipped jumps and I wondered if I should change the hi-speed compression a click softer. Any advice?



  • Desracer

Posted February 26, 2005 - 10:08 PM


Sounds like you need to add some rebound damping to the rear shock. Compression controls the going down and rebound controls the going back up to be simple. Adjusting the clickers is free and most people never even try to adjust their suspension. Turn the clickers in till they bottom while counting each click or turn so you know where you started from. If you know where you started at you can you it as your baseline starting point. Go slow on your adjustments so you can find out what they do to the ride. I use a long set a whoops and a couple of small jumps to fine tune my set up. I never try anything large or fast until I know how the bike will react. Good luck!

  • Blue_White_Rider

Posted February 26, 2005 - 10:33 PM


i agree with des, sounds like a little too much rebound. try softening it up a click or two.

  • new2fourstrokes

Posted February 27, 2005 - 04:10 AM


why would you need to go 5.8 spring??? should i change mine to a 5.8 :)

  • Robert_Brazil

Posted February 27, 2005 - 07:39 PM


How did you determine the need for a stiffer spring? Supposing you got good advice there, where in the manual it says that you need to reduce compression and increase rebound?

Make sure you got your SAG set at 100mm and verify your free SAG (18mm to 32mm) you can learn this of the DVD on this forum. YOu probably also need to increase fornt fork springs then,... not? The high speed has no CLICKS but turns. Set the hi speed at 1.5 turns out and first figure out low speed. Next you play with the high speed on some jumps, okay

  • vmxr

Posted February 27, 2005 - 08:19 PM



I also put a much heavier spring on my 03 WR450, I'm about 200lbs. I also went to .47 fork springs. Big improvement. It sounds like you need more rebound dampening. I had to add 4 clicks total and its still a bit light, but i prefer it that way. When dialing my clickers in I followed the procedure on the Fineline Suspension DVD. They had me adjusting things in a different order from what I ever had before. It worked great. I recommend the DVD.

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted February 27, 2005 - 10:36 PM


How much does a heavier rear spring cost and where did you get it. Thanks.

  • vmxr

Posted February 28, 2005 - 06:54 AM


Black & Blue,

I got my rear spring from my Yamaha Dealer for something like $80. I selected the spring rate from the Tuning section at the back of my owners/repair manual. It has some usful advice on what spring to select and how to tell if you need one. It gives starting points for setting the clickers with the optional springs. You can also get springs from any good suspension shop.

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  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted February 28, 2005 - 09:32 PM


Thank you :)

  • DeltaT

Posted March 06, 2005 - 12:02 AM


Thanks for all the advice! I will try adding in rebound damping 1 click at at time and see what the effect is. It's not far off now. Much more predictable than the stock spring and tires.

To answer the above questions:

- Got the spring via Thumpertalk. It is a Racetech and I forget how much it was, sorry. Check the site.

- I changed the spring because I weigh about 230 all geared up and with my tools on in the fanny pack. The manual says the stock spring is targeted to about 176 lbs. I couldn't get the right geometry even after sag adjustments.

- Front is OK right now although the midstroke is a bit harsh.

I learned most of this stuff from here on TT, including the high approval rating of Michelin S-12's front and rear, free mods and spring stuff. Great site.


  • Dan_from_HB

Posted March 06, 2005 - 08:55 PM


Either slower rebound OR lighter high speed compression damping (the lip might be locking the hs damper valve). You'll have to experiment a little. I'd go two clicks at a time on rebound. It will make the differences a little more pronounced. You can always back it off again.
I ride with VERY light HS compression damping since lots of my riding is in loose rocks, and steep sandy hills guessed it............loose rocks. I pay a slight penalty in deep whoops, but it's worth it where I ride.
Good luck.

  • DeltaT

Posted March 08, 2005 - 11:02 PM


Thanks. I tried the rebound 1 click harder and it helped. I'm going to try (separately) 1 click lighter on lo-speed compression and 1 more click harder on the rebound.

I'm still finding the front a bit harsh in the stutter and braking bumps. Searching for the magic combo there. Tips anyone?


  • ncmountainman

Posted March 09, 2005 - 06:03 AM


this is what works for me in the front if i come out on the compression to soften for technical stuff. i come out on the rebound also,it allows the fork to ride higher in the stroke using more of the travel. it doesn't make sense,but it works. in the slow stuff i run 16 out on comp/12 out on rebound on the front,compared to 14/10 for faster stuff. :)

  • MathProf

Posted March 09, 2005 - 06:18 AM


My problem is similar to yours. I have adjusted the rebound to get rid of the rear wheel kick until it is obviously too much.

I agree with increasing the high speed compression for this reason: The deeper the compression intop the stroke the more the rear will kick. By adjusting the Hi speed compression, you keep the rear wheel from moving through as much stroke and the rebound will not kick as much.

The problem with trying to get rid of kick with slow speed compression is the ride gets more and more harsh in the slow stuff, but there still isn't enough rebound dampening to control that much spring force.

I would go stiffer on High speed an eighth of a turn at a time until the kick gets better.

  • Blue_White_Rider

Posted March 09, 2005 - 09:28 AM


it sounds like you may be a little backwards on your adjustments. the high speed damping refers to the speed the shock shaft is moving, it is used to control small chop and square edged bumps that jolt the wheel quickly and sharply. the low speed damping will control landing from jumps and larger bumps that compress the suspension farther into the stroke. then use the rebound to control how fast the suspension stands back up to get ready for the next bump or obstacle.

  • MathProf

Posted March 09, 2005 - 10:22 AM


I definitely could be screwed up.

When I hit square edges at speed the rear kicks too much. I have clicked up the rebound until it is stupid stiff. I figured the solution must be somewhere else.

If I hit these edges quicky and hard wouldn't the high speed compression control how far into the stroke the shock goes, and then also limit the amount of shock rebound.

My problem lies in big sharp hits that compress the rear shock so far into the stroke that it rebounds a long way and causes the kick.

If I limit the big fast movement, wouldn't that limit the rebound? :)

  • Blue_White_Rider

Posted March 09, 2005 - 08:19 PM


each clicker controls something different.
-the rebound only controls how fast the suspension extends after being compressed.
-the slow speed damping controls compression of the suspension under large impacts, i.e. landing from jumps or larger bumps like g-outs and whoops
-the high speed damping controls compression of the suspension from smaller and sharper jolts, i.e. rocks, tree roots, braking and acceleration bumps and those ever pesky rain ruts.
if the rear of the bike is kicking after you hit an obstacle like a tree root or square edged bump then you can adjust two things to fix it. the rebound may need to be slowed down so the suspension doesnt extend back as quickly. the second thing would be high speed damping, you would soften this up to allow the suspension to compress more readily thereby soaking up the impact this will work the same for the shock and the fork. if you're having the same trouble with the fork your front wheel wont kick but it will deflect to one side or the other, so if the handlebars tend to snap to one side or the other when going through choppy sections you will need to do the same type of adjustment to the fork :)


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