WR400 turn signal wiring help...pretty please!


14 replies to this topic
  • bdmmotard

Posted February 26, 2005 - 08:59 AM

#1

I did a search and looked at sticky's but couldn't find information on how to hook up signals w/o using a bd or trick dual sport kit. i'm a dad/student and don't have $400. so please help if you can.

i wired up my turnsignals on my wr400, which kinda work. no kit, this is just with the stock wiring. i can get the signals to come on but not flash, so either my relay is broke or in the wrong place, or not enough juice. signals come on when i use the switch, but i get nothing when i'm using the relay. here's what i got. rear signal grounds to brake light ground, positive rear signal wires to turn signal switch then to relay then into the positive headlight wire.

my questions are 1) where does the flasher/relay go 2) if it's alright to be splicing into the headlight wires for turn signal power (or will it just make my headlight flash when i use the signals!). 3) any wiring diagrams out there?

thanks in advance

:)

  • bdmmotard

Posted February 26, 2005 - 05:44 PM

#2

using the ufo integrated taillight/signals...

  • billygoat

Posted February 27, 2005 - 08:05 PM

#3

If you ride a WR400, you don't have a battery. You will need some sort of constant voltage source to make the relay work properly. If you were to rev your bike up and down slowly, you would probably find a spot where the signal will work slowly/properly. So, without a regulator/battery they won't work. You can manually cycle them, but that's no fun. If you are close to a cycle junkyard, you could scavenge the parts you need for $20. You could even just run a battery circuit only for turn signals (rechargeable type or throw away).

  • Birdie426

Posted February 27, 2005 - 10:42 PM

#4

bbmmotard-
The WR ignition produces AC power...turn signals need DC power. On my 426, I replaced the stock WR regulator with a Trail Tech Regulator/Rectifier to produce AC for the ignition and DC for the lights, and a big capacitor to filter the DC. I picked up a combination switch at a bone yard for 5 bucks, and use K and S flushmount V marker lights for signals (15.95 a pair at RideGear). I don't remember exactly what the regulator/rectifier costs, but I think it was around $55.00. To wire these boys in, the hot dc wire from the rectifier goes to the flasher, which then goes to the switch "turn signal power" lead, assuming you're using a two lug flasher. Then, connect each marker light to the appropriate lead on the switch (L/H front and rear to the L/H lead, R/H front and rear to the R/H lead. Note that F and R should be in parallel, not in series. Don't forget, to be legal in most states, you will also need a horn.

Like you, I've built my own D/S kit, at a cost of about 150.00, including all the wire, connectors, turn signals, horn, switches, mirror, etc. I couldn't see dropping 450 or 5 bills for something that I can do myself with just a little bit of time and bank.

Birdie

  • Chas_M

Posted February 28, 2005 - 11:39 AM

#5

I wired up a homemade turn signal setup on my KTM 525 EXC by tapping in to the headlight lead and using an inexpensive flasher from an auto parts store. The AC signal powers the turn signals and flasher just fine. Since the flasher is wired in only to the signals, there is no problem with a flashing headlight or taillight.

  • bdmmotard

Posted February 28, 2005 - 03:58 PM

#6

I wired up a homemade turn signal setup on my KTM 525 EXC by tapping in to the headlight lead and using an inexpensive flasher from an auto parts store. The AC signal powers the turn signals and flasher just fine. Since the flasher is wired in only to the signals, there is no problem with a flashing headlight or taillight.


chas, where did you put the flasher? mine is in between the headlight wire i spliced into and the master turn signal wire going to the turn signal switch.

UPDATE: ok i must be doing something semi alright cuz now all four signals come on strong, but still no blinky. so basically just need to know 1) what flasher to use, and 2) where does it go. i tried a electronic variable load flasher from the auto store, but no luck. basically i was running the power wire from the headlight to the flasher to the signal switch then to the signals then to ground.

  • 1rkcooper

Posted February 28, 2005 - 07:36 PM

#7

Unless you have a battery you are probably not generating enough power at idle to power both the headlight and have the flasher work. Try revving your bike a bit and see if the signals flash, if they do then all you need is a battery to give power at idle to your signals and brake light. This is the problem with my WR400, we are going to put a battery in when I get it all back together. I'd send you the shematic of how it is all wired but I don't know where I've put it.

  • Birdie426

Posted February 28, 2005 - 10:17 PM

#8

Chas_M: Are you sure the output to your headlight is AC? Doesn't your Katoom have a battery and happy button? Usually, if the bike needs DC for that stuff, everything is powered with DC to keep things simple...12V AC doesn't provide enough voltage to generate enough heat to make a typical automotive bi-metal flasher flash. Some old Italian scooters (vespas and the like) did use an AC flasher, but they're aweful expensive.

  • Woodzi

Posted March 01, 2005 - 09:55 AM

#9

You can run signals straight off the AC power for the lights. You need a mechanical flasher (they are the old cheap one's). It doesn't care whether it sees AC or DC. Take your power, run it through the flasher to your switch and run your signal lights off the switch.

Sounds like you are almost there. Just make sure the flasher is the right type and is in series, before the signal switch. Also make sure you are using the correct connectors. Some have 3 connectors, but you ony need to use the 2 outside lugs. I had mine wired this way and it worked fine. The signal speed varied a bit with RPM, but it was acceptable.

Once you get everything working, seal the flasher with some silicone to keep the water out.

  • bdmmotard

Posted March 04, 2005 - 09:22 AM

#10

My flashers work!!!!

Some great advice here. here's the deal. You do NOT need dc power or any special rectifier or regulator. also the stock stator give plenty of power. the problem was i was using very low volt blinkers, the ones that come in the ufo integrated signals headlight and tail light. I just added big blinkers that are stashed behind my headlight mask, which now serve as big ol dash indicators that my signals are on. the larger blinkers pull enough power for either the thermal or mechanical cheapo auto store flashers making all my signals work! yay! the extra blinkers would not be needed if you were just using standard signals.

so forget baja designs and all them, just wire em up!

  • SXP

Posted March 04, 2005 - 12:03 PM

#11

My flashers work!!!!

Some great advice here. here's the deal. You do NOT need dc power or any special rectifier or regulator. also the stock stator give plenty of power. the problem was i was using very low volt blinkers, the ones that come in the ufo integrated signals headlight and tail light. I just added big blinkers that are stashed behind my headlight mask, which now serve as big ol dash indicators that my signals are on. the larger blinkers pull enough power for either the thermal or mechanical cheapo auto store flashers making all my signals work! yay! the extra blinkers would not be needed if you were just using standard signals.

so forget baja designs and all them, just wire em up!


Instead, use an ohm meter and measure the resistance across the two leads of the "big" flashers and then find an equivalent resistor and connect it up in place of the flasher. Should be a neater setup.

  • bdmmotard

Posted March 04, 2005 - 12:28 PM

#12

Instead, use an ohm meter and measure the resistance across the two leads of the "big" flashers and then find an equivalent resistor and connect it up in place of the flasher. Should be a neater setup.


good idea. doesn't sound like it but they're actually tucked in there pretty neat. another idea is get any headlight i want like those nice acerbis diamond or whatever and just use those big blinkers up front.

  • Chas_M

Posted March 04, 2005 - 09:58 PM

#13

Chas_M: Are you sure the output to your headlight is AC? Doesn't your Katoom have a battery and happy button? Usually, if the bike needs DC for that stuff, everything is powered with DC to keep things simple...12V AC doesn't provide enough voltage to generate enough heat to make a typical automotive bi-metal flasher flash. Some old Italian scooters (vespas and the like) did use an AC flasher, but they're aweful expensive.

The KTM does have a battery and ES, but the head and tail lights receive AC. Initially I hooked up the stoplight and turn signals to DC and they worked very well. I later hooked them up to the headlight AC lead since I was a little paranoid about the possibility of discharging the battery running on DC. The signals and brakelight worked fine on AC but not as strong as the DC hookup. The flasher was an inexpensive two prong unit and the turn signals were very small, but very bright non DOT units purchased from Cycle Gear.

  • JamesD

Posted March 04, 2005 - 10:21 PM

#14

If you use AC power for the turn signals, make sure you don't try replacing the bulbs with LED replacement units. Bulbs work with AC, LED's might have problems without regulated DC voltage.

  • Wrbiker

Posted August 26, 2005 - 07:10 AM

#15

there are two wires that came out from the alternator (yellow) and (red with orange tracer). the yellow wire goes to the (flasher relay -> light switch -> signal light), horns and headlight. what is red with orange tracer wire for?




 
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