PVC fork seal driver


9 replies to this topic
  • tonto256

Posted February 20, 2005 - 08:45 PM

#1

I need to replave the fork seals on my 05' YZ450F. Has anyone used PVC pipe instead of the metal drivers? If so what size pipe and how did you cut it?
Also what about using the old seal to drive in the new one and then cut off the old seal?
Thanks

  • twistngrip

Posted February 20, 2005 - 08:57 PM

#2

A 1 1/2 inch PVC coupling works. Of course you need to cut the coupling vertically on each side to make two halves. I purposely made these cuts in an S shape so that when you clamp it back together it stays together better without each half sliding up and down. I used a hose clamp to keep the halves together while driving in the seal. This is definitely the poor mans way of doing the job. If you are limited on funds it will get the job done, but it takes a little determination to get the seal in there. Next time I do it, I'm going to go ahead and cough up the dough for a real driver. Some have ground the lip out of the inside of the coupling and tapered the driving end of the coupling also. I used a coping saw to cut the PVC coupling

Best of Luck
:)

  • FZ1426

Posted February 21, 2005 - 08:43 AM

#3

Yeah, a 49 cent 1 1/2 pipe coupling works perfect. Good idea on the "S" cut. I used a 3" high speed cutoff wheel to cut mine straight, and duct tape worked better to hold it together than anything else. The problem is that there's not enough weight behind it to drive the seal. So get a couple of approx. 24" blocks (4x4), put the coupling in place, turn the fork upside down between the blocks so as to catch the lip of the PVC on the edge of the blocks and drive the seal in by hitting the bottom of the fork downwards (with another block and hammer) onto the seal/PVC driver. Works great. If you've got a helper it's even better (I didn't). Next time I'll create half circle cut outs in the blocks to fit around the fork leg better. It'll be even easier, and it won't look so much like a monkey tryin' to F a football.... :)

  • grayracer513

Posted February 21, 2005 - 09:27 AM

#4

I purposely made these cuts in an S shape so that when you clamp it back together it stays together better without each half sliding up and down.

Good thinking :)

Next time I do it, I'm going to go ahead and cough up the dough for a real driver.

Good thinking II :) :p

  • twistngrip

Posted February 22, 2005 - 11:32 AM

#5

Good thinking :)
Good thinking II :) :p


I already knew I was getting older, maybe this is an indication that I am getting YZer too!

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  • ulmanb

Posted February 22, 2005 - 11:34 AM

#6

I have used the PVC concept before except I used a coupling that goes from a 3 or 4" down to the 1.5". that way you have something to wrap your fingers around and give a better hit/drive.

  • lanham

Posted February 22, 2005 - 12:19 PM

#7

Are your seals just leaking? If so try cleaning them first, works 99% of the time. I remove the fork guards, pop the dust seal then take a photograph inserting the corner up into the seal and rotating the photograph all the way around the seal. I use all four corners of the photograph on each seal. You'll be amazed at how well this works. I use a photograph because it will not rip when saturated will fork oil.

  • tonto256

Posted February 22, 2005 - 04:07 PM

#8

I had tried the old film negative trip, but it did not save me this time. I had the forks apart to change the oil and cleaned under the wiper in hopes of a cure, but nothing. I ended up replacing the seals and that was the fix it needed. Instead of using a driver of any kind I just left the old seal on and used it as the driver to install the new one. Once it was in place (by compressing the fork tubes together fast), I carefully cut the old seal off. i think this is even better than using drives as you don't run the risk of scratching the tubes with the drivers or hitting it with the hammer. It worked perfect.
Thanks for the replies.

  • smokin529

Posted February 22, 2005 - 08:42 PM

#9

If I buy the seals from my local dealer, I can usually get them to knock 'em in with there fancy tool for free. I just assemble them at home then take 'em to the dealer and let them knock 'em in. If they want to charge you for less than 5 minutes labor, it's time to find a new dealer!

  • unkle_george

Posted February 22, 2005 - 10:13 PM

#10

Put the outside metal seal in the freezer just before driving it in. (And tube over the heater). Butter. :)
- Ryan





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