Running light conversion on wr 450?


4 replies to this topic
  • stink

Posted February 20, 2005 - 03:07 AM

#1

Has anyone converted their rear running light into a running/brake light? If so how was it accomplished? I bought a hydraulic brake switch, I am just not sure what I have to do to the existing wiring. Thanks for any help in advance. Cheers S.

  • trailriderjoe

Posted February 20, 2005 - 04:40 AM

#2

As simple as it gets! :)
Put the switch in (you may have to pull the subframe up a bit or drop the brake assembly to install the switch), run the two wires up the frame and accross the fender to where the tail light connector is. Tap into the blue wire (run circuit) with one of the wires from the brake switch. The second you hook into the yellow wire which goes to the brake filiment. On the yellow wire make sure you cut it on the tailight side of the connector, there is no mating pin for it in the conector. Hence why there are two wires going into it (Blue/Blk), and three wires coming out (blue/Blk/Ylw). Now you have a running light and a brake light.

Yamaha was nice enough to plumb the brake wire right to the connector and then stop. Which I thought was cool, they could have really annoyed us, and left it unwired right at the bulb socket.

Just did my 05 WR last weekend.

PM me if you need more assistance. Trust me, it was painless :)

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  • minion

Posted February 20, 2005 - 07:09 AM

#3

As simple as it gets! :)
Put the switch in (you may have to pull the subframe up a bit or drop the brake assembly to install the switch), run the two wires up the frame and accross the fender to where the tail light connector is. Tap into the blue wire (run circuit) with one of the wires from the brake switch. The second you hook into the yellow wire which goes to the brake filiment. On the yellow wire make sure you cut it on the tailight side of the connector, there is no mating pin for it in the conector. Hence why there are two wires going into it (Blue/Blk), and three wires coming out (blue/Blk/Ylw). Now you have a running light and a brake light.

Yamaha was nice enough to plumb the brake wire right to the connector and then stop. Which I thought was cool, they could have really annoyed us, and left it unwired right at the bulb socket.

Just did my 05 WR last weekend.

PM me if you need more assistance. Trust me, it was painless :)


What is the size of the hydrallic switch? FourStrokesOnly.com shows 2 different possible sizes.

Also, do you know of a turn signal relay (blinker control) that works off of AC? I priced out all of the parts I needed to make my bike legal for most of the states I plan on taking it too (mirror, horn, turn signals, hi/lo headlight, brake light), but I don't plan on buying the pre-made kits. My stuff came to less than $160, and if I add a keyed switch, its $210. The only thing I don't have is the turn signal blinker. Worse comes to worse, I'll wire it off of the battery if I can't find an AC counterpart. =)

M.

  • ddialogue

Posted February 20, 2005 - 07:34 AM

#4

Worse comes to worse, I'll wire it off of the battery if I can't find an AC counterpart.


This is the easiest way to do it. I powered my blinkers from the battery, but through the keyswitch so they won't be left on accidentally and kill the battery. The problem running them through AC is that the blink rate will slow way down (or possibly even stop) at idle.

  • stink

Posted February 20, 2005 - 01:53 PM

#5

Thanks for the step by step instructions! I plan on using LED's for my turn signals so I am hoping if I run them off my battery that they will still flash when I am idleing. I found the narrowest and nicest quality switch for the headlight/turn signal was one from a honda 900rr/929. They are fairly inexpensive used. I think the bolt size is M10 times 1.25. Cheers S.




 
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