sputter and surge after JD Kit and Zip-Ty
Posted March 01, 2005 - 10:40 AM
Posted March 01, 2005 - 02:37 PM
Elton (yes, your name is cool) I got a GYT-R slip-on this week... The thing is BAD!! The bike sounds real deep and throaty.. I got it for $239.00 I can't wait to ride with it on Friday... Yamaha claims a 3 HP gain
Dan (hey, thanks),
Yamaha "only claims" 3hp? Did you see the Dyno's that Promotobillet has on their site; http://www.promotobi...ews_updates.htm
They show 37hp stock, 43.3 PMB insert, 45.1 Leo slip-on. That's a big spread. IYO, is Yam being conservative/pessimistic, since that's a race class exhaust (bet its loud), or is PMB being optimistic?
Posted March 01, 2005 - 03:20 PM
Posted March 01, 2005 - 03:37 PM
I have the E2 exhaust and it runs like shi****t!
I'm taking my Big Gun off tonite and putting the stock exhaust back on for the same reason. It ran good with the race exhaust but it's too loud, and the quiet insert burnt the logo right off the silencer and turned the end of the pipe brown from all the heat
Posted March 02, 2005 - 01:20 AM
Try running the red marked needle in the middle clip position. Your jetting sounds like it is too rich with the standard kit setting. The change should only take about 15 minutes.
If you or anyone else have any difficulties, let me know on the jetting forum. It's difficult to follow every forum and help.
The purpose of 2 needles in the kit is not only for changing elevations, but to give options when not every bike responds the same to identical jetting. Your low to mid-throttle problems are not the main jet, but the needle setting. When you have the red marked needle set to run clean, there will be more torque and better overall performance than either the stock or '04 needle provides.
Let me know if I can help further and don't hesitate to send an email.
email - JDJetting@comcast.net
Posted March 02, 2005 - 05:30 AM
Thanks!; will try red marked needle in the middle clip position and the 170 main.
Posted March 02, 2005 - 02:37 PM
Are you saying the E2 is causing this; or that it did not help the fact that it runs like sh...t after the JD kit (like me)?
No, I like the pipe. I'm just saying that opening your bike up is not the problem. It is in the jetting. I'm taking my carb down this week and changing some things. I am going to try the red needle middle, 168 Main, 48 Pilot & 40 Leak. Also putting on the Lowedog Kit. If this does'nt work I think I'll just ....cuss!
Posted March 06, 2005 - 09:34 AM
The JD Kit instruction (text) say; "...remove the seat and tank -- wow, is that true, I thought some said the carb "swings out", I thought JD said changing the blue to red needle will take 15 min. -- it'll take me that long to figure what socket to use to get the seat off and removing the gas tank scares the sh.t out of me when I read the part on "ensure that the petcock is closed" or gas will go everywhere, etc.
Any pointers for the 15 min method to change a carb needle?
Posted March 06, 2005 - 11:28 AM
Posted March 06, 2005 - 09:51 PM
The rest was fairly easy, as I installed the red needle with the clip in the middle, but was very stressful messing with the "heart" of my new WR.
I almost put the stock needle back (w/clip in middle), since it ran great with it and had a hard time getting the clip off -- but went ahead with the red, per JD recommendation.
I don't feel that I used as much force to tighted the allen nut inside the carb and I needed to break it lose -- it this bad?
I put all back together; could not remember if the tank hooked to anything, or just sat there heled by (2) bolts -- I just bolted it on.
It started fine and on a short ride seemed better; will see on my next ride -- as this sputter/surge and random quits off idel, is more noticible after riding a while.
I put loctite on the allen wrench nut inside the carb, as it appeared to have such before; I did not loctie the tank, radiator shrouds, or seat bolt; as they did not appear to have prior residue -- should I have?
Posted March 08, 2005 - 07:08 AM
Hummm; that's a curve ball -- who knew! It looked like loctite and was mentioned in this thread that such was used on the allen screw holding the needle.
Dont use loctite on your carb. Use anitseize!
So, did I mess it up by using a small amount of loctite on the allen screw that holds the needle?
What about the other bolts (tank, shrouds, seat, etc.) should I have loctite'ed them?
Is the normal to have a hard time rotating the carb to the left side to get at the top?
Posted March 08, 2005 - 02:04 PM
I would never use any kind of loctite on my bike, anywhere... If anything I grease about half of the bolts on the bike using a good grease.
I am with Dan Lorenze on this one. I use grease on large bolts and antiseize on small bolts especially going into aluminum tapped mounts. I only use loctite on engine bolts that are exposed to heavy vibration! You really have to know what will vibrate loose and what wont. Years of experience!
Dealers are the worst place to go for advice! TT has way more knowledge and experience!
Posted March 13, 2005 - 08:40 AM
I still not sure what options the Zip-Ty provide; so, I'm leaving it alone.
Thanks to all who offered advice,
Posted March 13, 2005 - 03:35 PM
How does it effect the fuel air ratio? At what RPM's and throttle openings?
How do you know when to fiddle with it?
Why aren't they stock?
Sorry for the questions, but everyone seems to have them and say they are necessary along with the JD kit, but all i have done to my bike is chuck a 170 Main in and it has run fine with the standard uncorked exhaust or the PMB insert.