Cam caps


23 replies to this topic
  • grayracer513

Posted February 21, 2005 - 08:39 PM

#21

This is just a quick reply to the whole harbor freight torque wrench thing. I have one of the same wrenches and after a fulls years use, I took it to work and had it calibrated and it was dead on. Its true that a "good" torque wrench can cost a pretty penny, but even one of the most exspensive wrenches is not good if it is not calibrated annually, and it doesnt take much to throw them out, simply knocking it off your work bench and it landing on the garage floor can send it out of cal. Just my 2 cents.

You got lucky, or you've treated your tools well. And you're right and wrong about the sensitivity of these tools. The lower cost ones can be very delicate in terms of holding calibration. But toughness is one of the distinctions of a professional grade tool. That said, it's usually a lot easier for a home user to be careful with his torque wrench that to cough up the price of a Snap-On.

One really good thing to remember to do is to back the torque setting collar on a clicker off to just below the lowest setting when you're done with it. Springs are something the Chinese don't do well, and leaving a wrench run up to 30-40% or more of its capacity will set the spring after a time. Much faster on a cheap one, too.

  • Lackey-92

Posted February 22, 2005 - 11:34 AM

#22

You should torque the botls as specified in the manual, 8ft/lbs. Don't use a thread locking agent as you will need to clean out the threads the next time to get the proper torque. I have assemebled many of the Yamaha top ends and have always used the specified torque and never had a cam seize. I do use a very high quality Snap-On torque wrench. I would not recommend a torsion bar type wrench. If you choose to use a Harbor Freight torque wrench just make sure to have it calibrated often. Using assembly lube, like Red Line, will also help avoid the cam seizing when the engine is first started after a rebuild.

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  • Dano426

Posted February 22, 2005 - 01:26 PM

#23

Hey guys- just curious on how everybody torques the camshaft caps. Is there a better way than spending 150 bucks on a Snap-On torque wrench? The only thing I can think of seems pretty okie but, how bout using a piece of pvc pipe fitted over the 8mm wrench (one foot long) and pulling to 6 lbs. using a fish scale. I know its pretty redneck, but I just cant afford a wrench that goes down that far. All the craftsmen models start at 10-15 lbs. Jason



I purchased a 8mm 3/8 socket. I was then able to get the 3/8" torque driver into the space to tighten the cam caps

  • grayracer513

Posted February 22, 2005 - 01:26 PM

#24

You should torque the botls as specified in the manual, 8ft/lbs. Don't use a thread locking agent as you will need to clean out the threads the next time to get the proper torque. I have assemebled many of the Yamaha top ends and have always used the specified torque and never had a cam seize. I do use a very high quality Snap-On torque wrench. I would not recommend a torsion bar type wrench.

A couple of questions
1) What manual calls for 8 ft/lbs? My '01 and my '03 both call for 7.2 .

2) Why do you suppose that Yamaha would reduce the torque value on the same engine to 5.7 ft/lbs for the '05, if in fact that is correct as earlier stated?

Beam torque wrenches, used carefully, are every bit as accurate (given that they are checked for accuracy in the first place) as a clicker, and certainly more so than a clicker used the wrong way. The main advantage to most people working on their own stuff is their affordability, and they clearly resolve some of the clearance issues encountered when working on the cams in the bike.





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