Good for Eastern Woods?
Posted August 10, 2001 - 06:36 AM
I am very open minded on what to ride. I am considering anything from an XR250 to a DRZ to a wr426. I trust the oppinion of an eastern rider more than a california mx deser t columnist. So any oppinions are welcome to help me make a decision on what to ride.
- Thanks a lot!
Posted August 10, 2001 - 07:00 AM
Posted August 10, 2001 - 10:38 AM
Posted August 10, 2001 - 11:15 AM
If you've been riding 200 and 250 2 stroke, you won't be happy with a XR250, maybe a XR400 would be ok.
99 WR400f, YZ timed, MX-Tech suspension, Scotts steering damper, White Bros E-Series (12 discs), tapered header and a/f. Kouba T-handle for the fuel screw. Works Connection billet throttle tube and frame guards. Cycra Pro-Bend, triple clamp mount handguards. Thumper Racing rad guards, Renthal Jimmy Button highs, YZ Tank and IMS seat, YZ number plate, odo removed, EKP #4, 50PJ, 175MJ at 500-1000' Thanks James Dean!
Posted August 10, 2001 - 11:21 AM
I don't race, just a casual trail rider. 200 lbs. 6'2".
You can dial the power up as you like. Suspension is great, power is great, but it is a little slow handling compared to your 200+ 250s. You can shorten the chain and raise the forks for more turning prowess. But it still won't turn quite as nice as a 2-smoker. You learn to pick different lines, that all.
The DRZ is very heavy, yet you don't feel it unless you crash. It's suspension is soft, and the power just doesn't compare to the WR. The e-start is cool, though. I'm not too impressed, but other folks absolutely love 'em.
I would try to ride a WR and see what you think. If you post where you are, I'm sure someone will pipe up and let you ride it.
I think the WR is easier to ride than a 250 2-stroke. More linear power and a powerband a mile wide, engine breaking is very helpful in the slop, and less off-on-off power delivery. Hills are a breeze, you need practically no run at hills to climb them, and aren't contantly fighting the rear end from slipping and swinging out.
I only get tired after about 4 hours of riding it in the woods (according the computer, about 16-21 MPH average depending on where I'm riding), and I'm not in terrific shape.
Again, you can adjust the power up or down (stock) as needed.
Ride one first if you can, but I don't think you'll be disappointed.
BTW, my Wr400 w/ YZ timing and the free mods w/ pipe will pull a '98 CR250 in a drag race everytime. He hits top speed while I'm grabbing the last gear and running away from it. The difference is the CR spins the tire while I grab and go...
Posted August 10, 2001 - 01:15 PM
I'm out west (oregon) and within 100 miles of the coast, there is plenty of tight "eastern" woods. In the winter its clay, rocks, tree roots, etc... Remember, west doesn't translate into "Southern California"! I had a XR 250 and it rocked in the woods until I fiqured out how to ride the dub-r. Now I could smoke any XR 250/400 in the woods (superior riding skill aside. I still believe in the fact that its nearly all rider). Personally I think you can go fast on just about anything once you figure out how to ride the thing. With most modern bikes, its hard to go wrong.
[This message has been edited by Boschk (edited 08-10-2001).]
Posted August 10, 2001 - 02:02 PM
Posted August 20, 2001 - 10:58 AM
Posted August 21, 2001 - 03:00 AM
Originally posted by jamracing:
As far as the 250f's, whatever you do, don't stall it. If you do, your race/riding day is over...
Ever ride one? That is total BS.
Posted August 21, 2001 - 03:08 AM
Posted August 21, 2001 - 04:41 AM
SouthEast Pa WR 400 rider here. I love the WR in the tight stuff. I like it much better than my 89 YZ 250. My wrist dont get whooped out from clutch and shift. I can lug the thing around and not have to worry about keeping it spooled up to get a shot of power to the ground or loft the front over stuff. I rode the WR250 and its cool and all and would be fine for trail riding if it were not for the big coal hill climbs. The little WR just dose not have the power to be forgiving on a loose hill. And stalling on a hill is the enemy. The one I rode only had the baffel out. No throttle stop cut, no gray wire, so I am sure there is more power to be had. With the less power it had it really did not feel all that light. I did not ride it long and did not drop it or anything. With the 400 I have learned to keep my feet on the pegs of the WR and use its supreme power and traction to make it nimble and not try to throw it around with my boot on the ground. I will say that I am 6'1 and about 200lbs and in very good shape and love to work the bike hard. I also love exploring new trails and even cutting off trials in the woods and have no problme lifting the bike or spinning it 180 degrees on the heel of my boot in turn arounds. I dont think the big WR favors shorter riders or guys that get tuckered out taking it off the truck . But I think if you have the levarage to be confident on the bike you can use its power to make knarly stuff look easy.
Posted August 21, 2001 - 05:23 AM
Us short people have an easier time getting comfortable in the cockpit and have an easier time standing while riding. The big thing is touching the ground. For this I use the bronco riding stiyle when in trouble in technical rocky sections. It involves using both legs as out riggers and staying on the gas and just hanging on. This bike gets me through almost everything as long as I stay on the gas. Love it in the tight stuff too!
Posted August 21, 2001 - 06:55 AM
I just think for very tight slow knarly riding the lightest bike with lower seat hight and easy starting, ie, push button may be the way to go. I for one feel its a compramise to accomadate a less strong, slower, shorter rider. If I was a bit shorter, like 5, 10 I may have had to go with the WR 250, and If I had leg or knee problmes I would have to go DRZ.
But,,, I am 6-1 with legs of steel so its big WR for me.
Posted August 21, 2001 - 07:03 AM
01 426 "sewing machine"
Custom cracked headlight:
Custom bent and twisted header pipe:Custom repaired break lever:custom repaired clutch lever: Custom dented moose skid plate: Custom dented frame: Custom scuffed side number plates: Custom scuffed front and rear fenders: Custom stock jetting: Custom vortip: Custom stickers