Dead Xr600


12 replies to this topic
  • johno74

Posted February 06, 2005 - 03:55 AM

#1

Hi
Ive just bought an M reg XR600, used it once yesterday and its now dead. No spark...
It became harder and harder to start before it stopped finally.
Ive checked the resistances of the pulse coil and the stator and ive changed the plug.
The ignition coil and cap seem ok too.
I cant find the spec to test the cdi?
Does anyone know it or know where i can find it?
Or does this no spark problem sound like something typical of an XR?

thanks
John

  • Old_Man_Time

Posted February 06, 2005 - 05:36 AM

#2

Yes it is a typical weakness in some of the older models. Baja Designs used to make a replacement part for this. I forget exactly which part it was. You might call their tech support and explain what happened. I'm pretty sure its not the CDI unit. It's been too long since I owned my XR600 or I would remember exactly what part has failed.

  • pb1963

Posted February 06, 2005 - 07:13 AM

#3

Mine did the same thing, its your stator. I did all the tests, bought a new CDI even, everything checked out okay. Bought a Ricky stator, $140, and it fired first kick. This was a common problem in the old ones. Do a search for stator, you will find all the reading material you need. Good luck

  • johno74

Posted February 06, 2005 - 07:52 AM

#4

I've just checked the clutch and that has stopped working too.

The cable and activator arm move and press the clutch body which moves outwards( ive taken the clutch cover off so i can see it move) but the clutch doesnt even slightly work...?

Could this be connected to the dead engine??

  • johno74

Posted February 06, 2005 - 09:13 AM

#5

The more i search for info about this problem, more evidence points towards a faulty stator.

If i kick it over i get between 5 - 18 vac. What should i be getting?

Thanks

  • somecallmetim

Posted February 24, 2006 - 11:43 AM

#6

Sounds like mine right now(85xr, baja designs ds kit), a real bitch to start, has gotten worse over time, for a while It would only start with a new plug, last couple of times I tried I gave up. I'm getting a weak, orangeish spark. I previously had problems with the cdi box, would stumble and cough when the ignition is supposed to advance... replaced it, that problem went away. OTOH I had the carbs aprt and have dicked with the floats when trying to troubleshoot it... Where do I go from here? the coil ohms ok. How do I check the stator, just like the manuel says, or diffrent because of the DS kit?

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  • cleonard

Posted February 24, 2006 - 12:20 PM

#7

I agree, it's most likely the stator. Even though I have a 93 XR600, where this issue was supposedly fixed, I ended up with the same problem. Got harder and harder to start. You need about 80Vac at the from the ignition stator winding for the bike to fire. Most digital voltmeters need the voltage to be there of a large portion of a second in order to get a valid reading. It's not there that long when you just kick it over. It's probably more than the 5 to 18 volts that you are seeing. If you want to get a better reading, take the spark plug out, and kick real hard.

I didn't have $140 for a new stator at the time, so I did it myself. Took some time but wasn't too hard to do. I got the wire from an electrical salvage place and the whole job cost me like $10. If you are so inclined, there is a great writeup at http://www.crustyqui...ech/stator.html

My 93 has 2 poles wound instead of just one in that web page. If you are doing 2 poles wind one pole clockwise and the other counterclockwise. When I was done, I saw a nice fat blue spark at the plug. :thumbsup:

In case my repair fails, I carry a small wall transformer that will step up the lighting coil voltage to the voltage necessary to make a spark. It's a 120V to 12VAC wall transformer(aka wall wart) that I had in the junk box. You need about that 10:1 ratio, so it would be a 240VAC to 24VAC for you. Due to the higher frequency AC the the bike makes, it will overheat, but all I'm looking for is a way to ride back to the truck. If I find a proper audio transformer(for cheap), I may just ditch the ignition coil and run off the lighting coil all the time. Hey, I knew that electrical engineering degree would come in handy someday.

  • somecallmetim

Posted February 24, 2006 - 12:48 PM

#8

That is cool, thanks for the link. The tight ass and maintance man in me want to rewind my own stator now...

  • Fetona

Posted February 24, 2006 - 08:56 PM

#9

I had the same problem on my 89 XR600. This bike has always started easily. Then suddenly it started requiring more and more kicks for it to fire up. I did the resistance tests listed in the manual and the stator measurements seemed to be in line with what the manual said. But when I talked to the Honda shop about it they said its the stator, and they were right. Once I put the new stator in it fired right up. :thumbsup:

The more i search for info about this problem, more evidence points towards a faulty stator.

If i kick it over i get between 5 - 18 vac. What should i be getting?

Thanks



  • thummaster

Posted February 24, 2006 - 10:04 PM

#10

Im glad I read this thread.......My 89' is almost impossible to start cold. I see that some of you say your bikes "start easy"....whats easy to you?? 2, 5 kicks? Im glad if mine starts in 10 !!!!!
It starts and runs for a few seconds and dies.... I go through this 3 or 4 times before it stays running. I cant touch the gas , even a little...it will die.
Once its warm, it seems to start ok.
Carb issue?? Stator issue?

Im also afraid to go to deep into the woods in case it wont start !!

ANy suggestions.

Thanks

  • johno74

Posted February 25, 2006 - 12:46 AM

#11

STATOR STATOR STATOR!!!!
Not likely to be cdi unless it has somehow got damaged.
Run the tests in the manual and compare results. I dont know but id guess that the output should be the same with the ds kit-maybe someone else knows this..?
Take stator off and inspect closely, mine looked ok until close up disintigration was evident. There are various v good sites on stator problems- search stator on this site.

3-5 kicks depending on how good your techniq is-i bet there are people thru here that can start first time every time!!

Good luck

  • snaggleXR650

Posted February 25, 2006 - 05:32 AM

#12

Thummaster, yours sounds like a carb issue. Too lean on the pilot screw and or pilot jet. Or simply clean your pilot jet, make sure it's not dirty. Lean bikes run better hot, rich bikes run better cold.

As for the XR600 ignition coil. I've not ever messed around with the ignition coil, but I did do a full rewind of my lighting coil on my 650R (similar stator). Mine has 2 ignition poles. It would be pretty easy to rewind it.

1. Take pictures/video/drawings DETAILING the wire routing on the stator itself. Determine the size of the wire. Then buy the appropriate replacement;
http://www.bulkwire.com/

2. As you carefully unwind the ignition coil, COUNT each turn (full wrap around the stator pole) and take notice of the wrap direction. Record this information, # of turns per pole, 2 poles, # of total turns, CW then CCW etc... This part is CRUCIAL to make the coil perform how it should, but +/- 3 wraps won't hurt anything.

3. Start winding, making sure to wind the new coil exactly as the old one came off, keep the wires laying evenly and snug as you wrap, TAKE YOUR TIME.

4. Resolder each end of the ignition coil to the wires going up to the seat. Make sure this connection is VERY STRONG and secure.

5. Reinstall and test your bike. If all is well, remove the stator and coat the new coil with a 5 minute Epoxy, like DEVCON (look for high temp 200deg and water resistance). Multiple brands can be found at WalMart, Lowes, Home Depot, autoparts stores etc... Use a small paintbrush (real small) to apply the epoxy to the wires, don't be skimpy, but do have an even coating. Let dry for a good hour or overnight if you can. This keeps everything secure and water resistant under a protective shell.

6. While you are in there, if you feel frisky, grab some 18awg magnet wire and rewind your lighting coil. Strip off the stock wind, and rewind with the 18 for 32 wraps per pole, over all 10 poles, total 320 turns, alternating each winding direction, just as with your ignition. This will allow running a dual sport kit, charge a battery and run a 55-80W headlight to darn near full brightness right off idle. If no dual sport kit, you could run a 100W bulb (don't try this with the stock plastic lense though).

7. Or spend the money for a Ricky Stator, which includes a new ignition coil, and dual 100W coils (you will need a regulator for each coil). Then feel the shame as you skipped an opportunity to do it yourself and learn and feel pride. Just kidding, kinda :thumbsup: RIde on! Good luck.

  • bigboredbiker

Posted February 25, 2006 - 06:12 AM

#13

Just check the wires from the crankcase as well. They exit the stator right in front of the sprocket and if yours is anything like mine they could be frayed or broken. Has your pig got the crap front sprocket cover? I'd recommend replacing it with a Scott Summers one before you snap the chain and chew the cases/wires up.
P.s. where in UK are u? I'm in Lancashire....PM me if u want m8 & good luck.





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