The "RIGHT" footpeg bolts?!

21 replies to this topic
  • Mokuleia

Posted February 05, 2005 - 04:31 PM


Xr650R right footpeg bolts, and their tendency to shear.

After searching completely through the archives, there really never
was a definitive solution to the right footpeg bolts shearing. That
is unless you consider spending an additional $75-$130 an option (and
voiding your warranty). I just want to get the correct bolts for the
application, change them regularly, and call it good. Now obviously
I'm as capable as anybody of going down to Napa and getting
reasonable quality, grade 10.9 replacements. Or, I could order from
any # of bolt warehouses on the internet (but I don't want 100 of the
wrong bolt)

My question would be then, has anyone here already invested in a
substantial quantity of these bolts that have held up for you for a
while (i.e. have a proven track record)? If so would you be willing
to sell some or give me a brand or source?

And finally, am I making far too much of this problem, my bolts don't even appear to be bent yet, but I just installed larger footpegs, and increased the leverage?

Thanks for your opinions, Mark

  • Weirdo

Posted February 05, 2005 - 08:41 PM


"Kritter" has a great fix. But it costs, not much in my opinion. I plan on getting his setup soon. :cry: In one of his posts though he did list what grade and size bolts to get for a stronger stock setup. I do believe that he recommends drilling through the frame though. And that even by doing this the bolts will still bend. :cry:

good luck, and I'm sure he will chime in at some point to let you know the scoop personally.

ride on.. :cry:

  • jws

Posted February 05, 2005 - 08:58 PM


check out these threads - the Kritter fix is the way to go :cry:




  • Kritter

Posted February 06, 2005 - 01:24 PM


Thanks for the plug guys!

There is no "right" bolt that is going to fit without modifications.

The rear bolt should be changed for a socket head cap screw M10x1.25-50mm that can be done without modifications.

The front should be drilled thru with a 7/16 drill bit and a 7/16 SHCS should be run with a lock nut on the back side. There is no 10mm grade of bolt that is going to hold up to the loads put on it by the peg. Honda screwed up...

This set up without a tab like I offer to put the peg in double shear is still inadequate as I ran this above set up before making the peg modification and although the peg didnt break off, the bolt bent after one 6 mile leg of whoops at speed.

If you go to Napa or a bolt house and tell them you want the best alloy bolt available...great, not you have a bolt that has a yield and tensile strenght very close to each other which means that instead of the bolt bending and you noticing it is bent, it will just fail unexpectedly...and you may get hurt.

Precision concepts has a kit similar ot mine but nowhere near the quality. Team Honda DOES NOT simply use the PC kit...the frames are milled flat, bored out, and sleeved...and then the modified peg is installed.

I can turn your peg around in 1 day or you can swign by and I can take care of it in less then an hour. I would have been able to send out a peg so there was no downtime, but the last person I did that to, didnt send me back his core and im not gonna go spend 70 bucks on a peg post when I only charge a 50 core deposit to have that happen again.

If 75 bucks sounds like a lot of much does a broken leg cost?

Quite a few guys from here as well as guys I race with run my solution and are happy with it.

  • stolidog

Posted February 06, 2005 - 02:42 PM


Why not us Nylon bolts?
They flex and will return back to original size.

They use them in The space shuttle. Kinda pricey but you will also save wieght.

In fact you could replace many OEM with Nasa Nylon and save a lot of wieght.

By the way, Kritter Rocks.

  • Haymaker

Posted February 06, 2005 - 02:49 PM


In my opinion, flex is the last thing you want here. The steel peg will rapidly chew through the aluminum and only accelerate bad things........


  • Kritter

Posted February 06, 2005 - 03:49 PM


In my opinion, flex is the last thing you want here. The steel peg will rapidly chew through the aluminum and only accelerate bad things........


Thats why there is a spacer between the peg and the frame and also why I include SS slow the corrosion between the steel peg and the aluminum frame.

  • Mokuleia

Posted February 06, 2005 - 03:58 PM


Thanks for all the replies on this guys,
Kritter, I think your fix is worth every bit of $75, its the $975 for a new frame should it crack next to a weld while under warranty. I suppose this a bit of a longshot, and even $975 is cheaper than a broken leg. I can see that 7/16" is the largest bolt you can use without drilling out the peg (great, another wrench I need to carry). Do you think drilling the peg the additional mm to 12mm would weaken it much?

I suppose it just comes down to accepting the problem, getting pissed at Honda isn't solving it for me. Don't know what I'll do at this point, probably nothing, then all will be accomplished :cry:

  • Kritter

Posted February 06, 2005 - 05:02 PM


I didnt want to drill the peg since it sees so much load over 3/8 of an inch or so, whereas the frame has the load spread through the boss and thats why I felt it was OK to drill the hole to 7/16

As for carrying an extra tool...once you fix the peg..forget about it, no tools required on the trail for a peg fix ever again!

  • big t

Posted February 06, 2005 - 05:34 PM


I put my modified peg on, from Kritter, about a month or so ago and it is the way to go. No more worrying. $75 is a lot cheaper than being hurt because the peg broke off. Good money spent. :cry:

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  • Husky_Forever

Posted February 07, 2005 - 08:52 PM


Or a broken wrist? As Honda smiles says " You are the first one to ever have this problem sir". :cry:

  • TimBrp

Posted February 08, 2005 - 04:04 AM


I just buy new Honda OEM bolts every year. They're cheap enough. However, the ones I pull out are bent to hell.

  • KeithBoyd

Posted February 08, 2005 - 08:28 AM


Can you list the part numbers for the original bolts....or does anyone know of a European or UK supplier of a peg fix similar to Kritter`s???.....yes...I`ve noticed I have to nip mine up a bit every outing nowadays....they`ll brake soon...I just know it!!!!!....I`m doing a 100 bike race on Saturday and its bound to let go then !!!!!

  • Mokuleia

Posted February 08, 2005 - 09:00 AM


90181-MN0-000 front

Just my opinion, you are playing with fire. Hardened bolts are made to be set at their recomended torque ONCE. I just drilled out the front to 7/16" last night. Your drilling through an aluminum sleeve that is welded into the frame so it shouldn't effect frame strength at all. It was fairly easy though I would do it in three progressive steps, the aluminum is pretty hard. Grade 8 or better 7/16"-14 x 3" socket head cap screws are not too hard to come by. It has a bigger head on it than the stock bolt and fits the peg hole perfectly. The extra diameter is comforting. I'm considering retapping the back hole to 7/16-14 as well but it seems pretty overkill considering how long most people's stock bolts last.

try; for bolts. I'm suspicious of the stock ones. I found a local fastener specialty store for the 7/16 socket heads but the m10x45x1.25 is a very odd bolt. Metric grading is different so make sure if you go with the M10 to get grade 10.9 (same as grade 8 SAE). If you find socket heads in this size they will likely be grade 12.9.


That link is likely split but MSC has high quality Holo-Krome 7/16-14 x 3" SHCS
for a reasonable price, no fine thread M10 though.

I know more about bolts than I ever wanted after all this, hope it helps someone. Keep us posted how it goes.


  • Mokuleia

Posted February 08, 2005 - 09:16 AM


I should add, I was not able to use a washer on the backside of the frame because it is not particularly flat. I'm still considering modifying one to sit flat but really the nut itself has perfect contact with the sleeve. A weld buts up against the sleeve so everyones is going to be different. I refuse to file on the frame, thats where I'm drawing the line. I also greased the shaft of the bolts well, cleaned the end threads with acetone, loctited, and torqued it to 45 ft#. If that bolt does fail, it can now be pushed out (barring too much galvanic corrosion), and replaced on the trail. Anti-seize on the shaft would be better.

Will also be marking the bolts with nail polish to detect any movement.

good luck, Mark

  • BRP27

Posted February 08, 2005 - 09:21 AM


Kritters fix is good. it spreads the load out,and the drilling on the frame hole is minimal. You are just cleaning up the hole. I welded a bracket up and mounted it, no problem. Good design Kritter :cry:

  • Mokuleia

Posted February 08, 2005 - 09:43 AM


It does seem we are all turning this problem into a religion :cry:

Lets look at a bigger problem....

  • KeithBoyd

Posted February 08, 2005 - 11:04 AM


Thanks alot...I`ll see what I can do...its always good to tap into a great source of info from like minded people...thanks again....

  • Kritter

Posted February 08, 2005 - 06:33 PM


you can run the m10x1.25-50mm in the rear...hence the reason I include it in my kit. I think a 55mm may fit as well.

  • 4strokedezracer

Posted February 12, 2005 - 04:49 PM


In reponse to all the discussion about the bolts. I have found that if I use Honda bolts and torque them to the correct lbs., I can get 4 desert races out of them before they start to bend. I am not a lightweight either, I weigh 270+ and am Vet-Expert V17 in D37. I will be buying one of Kritters mounts tho. I have to tear the bike down because I have a crack in the middle of the weld at the mount. Hope this helps

Dale Aastrom

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