Break in tips



2 replies to this topic
  • rwhitlock

Posted November 27, 2000 - 01:58 PM

#1

I am a new owner of a WR 426 and heard what my dealer told me about breaking in my new bike. I am wondering what other advice is out there regarding breaking in a new bike.

If any of you guys have any tips on what has worked great (or gone bad...) for you I would appreciate hearing them.

Thanks,

Rod

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  • Hick

Posted November 27, 2000 - 03:33 PM

#2

Rod,

The first few oil changes are the most important, I’d recommend you change each ride for the first four or five rides. During these first several changes you should also check the screen in the bottom of the reservoir, it screws out as part of the hose fitting, I think you need a 24 mm deep socket. Mine was way tight, I needed an air ratchet to break it loose. Expect to find lots of metal filings (because of this you should also change the filter each time as well), I think they are welds and paint flaking off the inside of the oil reservoir. They should disappear after a few changes.

Also, if your ’01 WR is anything like the ’00 YZ/WRs it doesn’t have much grease in it. If you plan on getting it wet at all I’d grease the linkage and steering head bearings before you even ride it.

My two pennies.

Hope this helps!

  • mcarp

Posted November 27, 2000 - 10:24 PM

#3

This sounds like cruel and unusual punishment, but here it goes.

There's more to it than just going easy on it. The WR isn't setup from the factory in ready to ride form, IMHO. Also, you have to be "broke in" to the bike as well.

-Really, grease all the wheel bearings, linkage, swingarm, axles,headstay like Hick said. Get everything back together with a torque wrench, you'll be sooo happy you did this when your bike was new. They use almost no grease in all these critical areas.

- Oil the air filter. Mine was dry from the factory. This is VERY important.

-Set your suspension very softly and don't jump real high just yet. Leave them set softly for about 100 miles, then adjust from there. Your rear spring will sag during this time, so that's something else to check later.

-Change that oil as hick mentioned. It will be dirty with lot's of particles the first 150 or so miles.

- Tighten every third spoke until you've got them all (2 turns). Be careful, don't overtighten only 1/4 turns max each spoke at a time.

-Probably missing something here, obvious stuff like tire and coolant I guess

Ok now you can ride it...or maybe you can. The jetting is very lean as standard. You can probably get by at first by turning out the fuel screw to compensate for the lean factory pilot, but it's real common to change the jetting richer.

Do what the manual says, then ride it easy for about 60 miles or 4 rides, but don't chug it either. Don't let it idle very long, 2 minutes max. After 100 miles I think you're safe to rev it beyond 1/2 thottle, but this is an opinion. Some folks go longer, some much shorter as described in the manual. I'm anal and want my bike to last, so I errored on the conservative.

Now do all the free stuff--throttle stop, exhaust baffle, airbox lid and rejet (OK not free, but cheap anyway)

Now ride with wreckless abandon :) You'll love it!

Good luck!




 
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