Stupid Question time


8 replies to this topic
  • jasv11

Posted January 13, 2005 - 01:27 PM

#1

Seing that I am new to these type of bikes and My WR426 didn't come with a manual.

How do you get a correct oil dipstick reading?

Mines always changing...looks low, so I add some oil, then it's too full.:cry:

When I change the oil it takes forever for it all to drain:excuseme:

Am I an idiot?:cry:

  • snmhanson

Posted January 13, 2005 - 01:32 PM

#2

When you drain your oil are you letting your bike heat up a little bit to thin the oil? I have to do that with my tractor otherwise it takes forever to drain.

Matt

  • Indy_WR450

Posted January 13, 2005 - 01:40 PM

#3

Only read it after running the bike for 10 seconds. Oil will drain out of the frame if you let it sit and the level will read incorectly.:cry:

  • Gadsen

Posted January 13, 2005 - 01:47 PM

#4

Only stupid question is the one thats not asked. Dry sump, you will drain out plenty if its sat overnight from the crankcase. Otherwise, the rest needs to be drained from the frame. I'd let it run a minute and check. Keep in mind, warmer oil will read higher.

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  • jasv11

Posted January 13, 2005 - 02:00 PM

#5

Only stupid question is the one thats not asked. Dry sump, you will drain out plenty if its sat overnight from the crankcase. Otherwise, the rest needs to be drained from the frame. I'd let it run a minute and check. Keep in mind, warmer oil will read higher.


Thanks a bunch,

I think I understand whats happening, before I go for a ride it's always low and when I come home it's always too full.:cry:

I've never owned a dry sump bike before:confused:

Okay! so do you drain the frame AND the crankcase when you change the oil if your in a rush,
If not the crankcase will drain everything over night....gotcha:thumbsup:

  • Sylvain

Posted January 13, 2005 - 04:17 PM

#6

Better be safe than sorry for not asking :cry: .

First, begin with an oil and a filter change after you have warmed up the bike. The best is to do it right after ride.

Loosen the dipstick near the top frame . Unscrew the front frame reservoir bolt and then the bottom crankcase bolt. Let the oil drip a few minutes. You have time to prepare the correct amount of oil (I think with a filter change 1.4L), and the new filter. Clean the filter area.

Once empty, clean the plugs and screw back on. Proper torque with good washers.

Fill it up. Put the dipstick back on. Wait a few minutes to let the fresh oil time to go down the strainer. With the decomp lever in, kick the engine over to prime the filter and pump. (I count 15).

Then start the engine, let it run for a warm up. Stop it, put on level ground and check the dipstick level. Remember not to screw the dipstick fully when checking the oil level. Take it off, clean it, put it back til the dipstick cap makes contact with the frame hole. take it back out and check the oil level on the dipstick. It should be between the two marks.

If you take too long between the stopping of the engine and the oil check, it might register too low. If you do it super fast - too high. Once you stop the engine, level the back on the stand, take the rag and begin the checking, the oil level should be ok.

Try to always do the same procedure. That way you will get to know where the oil level should be after an oil change. If you only want to chec the oil level, do it the same way. You will be able to assess if your bike burns oil.

Read the posts and you will have a ton of good info.:cry:

Check in the Motoman site, there is a manual available. I think it's for the yz 426. I remember a thread where a tt member linked a user manual.
It may help.

  • Borgas

Posted January 13, 2005 - 05:12 PM

#7

Hello all

My 2001 WR426 takes 1.6L without filter and 1.7L with filter. I always clean my filter, and never put a new one since 2001.

The problem is the chassis fill very quicly and if you don´t now how much off new oil you are putting, the dipstick up´s very fast. Fill it slowly

  • Gadsen

Posted January 13, 2005 - 07:13 PM

#8

Okay! so do you drain the frame AND the crankcase when you change the oil if your in a rush,
If not the crankcase will drain everything over night....gotcha:thumbsup:


You bet. If you drain it after it sat all night, the frame will be empty, but the draining will take a bit longer. Never check your oil without the engine ruinning for a little bit. Then shut it off and check it. A good habit is to check it after your done riding and top it off then. Did you find the frame drain? Sounds like you have it down now anyway! Enjoy. :cry:

  • Hamish

Posted January 14, 2005 - 04:27 AM

#9

Thanks a bunch,

I think I understand whats happening, before I go for a ride it's always low and when I come home it's always too full.:cry:

I've never owned a dry sump bike before:confused:

Okay! so do you drain the frame AND the crankcase when you change the oil if your in a rush,
If not the crankcase will drain everything over night....gotcha:thumbsup:

Kinda.
Always drain the frame and the crankcase, even if the bike has been sitting overnight. I drain the frame from the bottom of the hose that goes from the frame to the lower of the inner crankcase cover. This helps get as much old oil out of the system as possible.

A bit of dry sump theory to help you understand the system:
The bike has 2 oil pumps.
The lube pump takes oil from the frame and squirts it around the engine to lubricate the required parts.
The scavenge pump sucks whatever oil it can from the bottom of the crankcase and returns it to the frame.
When the bike is cold, the oil is thicker. Thicker oil takes longer to return to the bottom of the crankcase, and therefore when the bike is cold there will be more oil in the motor and crankcase and less oil in the frame. When the oil heats up, it flows easier and finds it's way back to the bottom of the crankcase quicker, so there is less oil in the crankcase and more in the frame.
This is why it's important to warm the oil before checking the oil level. Idleing the bike for 5 min doesnt raise the oil temp very much at all. When I do an oil change, I put enough oil in to get a reading on the dipstick, then take the bike for a blast around the streets and then adjust the oil level.
Another point to note here is that if you have been riding at high rpm, or had the bike on the sidestand, let it idle in the upright position for about 1 min before shuting it off to check the oil. When the bike is on the sidestand, the scavange pickup is no longer the lowest point in the sump, and more oil will be in the crankcase than normal. (you'll get a low level on the dipstick)

Hope this heps :cry:




 
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