Overheating while idling


21 replies to this topic
  • jcoyne97222

Posted January 10, 2005 - 09:34 PM

#1

I just got my New 650R home. I filled the oil with 1.5 qts and had it idling to warm up so I could test the oil level. Shut it off and tested the oil level and it was good. Started it up and went for a rip down the road and then let it sit in the garage for 5 minutes idling and all of a sudden it started spewing coolant out the overflow tube. Can this bike sit and idle? I was trying to break it in a little by letting it idle. Do they overheat while breaking in? Maybe they fill them too full at the shop or factory? The only reason I had to put oil in it was that I had the bike shipped from California and the guy who shipped it drained it first

  • Kritter

Posted January 10, 2005 - 09:38 PM

#2

5 minutes idling? Thats way too long! Start it and ride it...

Make sure its got all the smog crap removed or it will overheat even faster.

To make it more tolerable put a cap off a kx60 which is a 1.8 cap. I also run water wetter.

  • qadsan

Posted January 10, 2005 - 09:49 PM

#3

Yes, they run hotter when new. If the bike still has the stock jetting and stock exhaust tip in it, then you'll find it will run cooler once it's uncorked, however this bike or most off road water pumpers won't sit and idle for extended periods of time without boiling over. Once the bike is broken in, properly jetted and has a larger exhaust tip, you shouldn't experience any problems on the trail, or deserts, dunes, etc, unless of course you let the bike sit and idle for too long.

See this link for more info on the cooling system and boiing over.
http://www.xr650r.us/xr650r_faq/#1e

See this link for all kinds of info on the XR650R including uncorking, etc.
http://www.xr650r.us/

  • jcoyne97222

Posted January 10, 2005 - 10:16 PM

#4

Thanks for the reply. I am used to other Honda products that you don't have to worry about it. In the manual it states to let the engine idle for 5 minutes and if it's below 50 Degrees then let it go for an additional 5 minutes for a total of 10. Then check the oil level. Because of this I expected it to be able to idle for a while. This was the 1st time the bike had been run, as it got warm you could smell the stink from things getting warm the 1st time. I will check the coolant level and try not to let it idle. I want to run it completely stock for a while before I start tweaking on it. You out to be able to let it idle for a while if you need to go back and help an inexperinced rider instead of having to kick the beast over.

Thanks again.

  • Miker

Posted January 11, 2005 - 07:23 AM

#5

Air cooled or water cooled. Idling = :cry:

  • jcoyne97222

Posted January 11, 2005 - 08:13 AM

#6

Water cooled :cry:

  • YZFnwithme

Posted January 11, 2005 - 08:54 AM

#7

I did the same thing when I first started my 650r. I was accustomed to sportbikes with fans that kicked-in to keep things cool. No more idling my BRP.

  • Misfit

Posted January 11, 2005 - 09:11 AM

#8

I think they have a fan that you can install on the 650R but I forget what aftermarket company makes it.:cry:

  • resslera

Posted January 11, 2005 - 04:35 PM

#9

Like you I too found out my new 650R didn't like to idle. After only a few minutes of slow city driving I saw bubles coming up at a stop light in the container. I too wanted to wait a while before uncorking. At 200 miles I went ahead and uncorked and I recommend you don't even wait that long! I did it just to make sure everything worked right to see if I had any warrenty issues.

This bike is actually very easy to uncork and it will really run a hell of a lot better once you do. You gas mileage will suck even worse however as I found myself hitting reserve at 40 miles today! Not good, but worth the extra power :cry:

  • jcoyne97222

Posted January 12, 2005 - 09:50 AM

#10

Nice response! It's good to hear it from somebody else. I have been reading a lot about uncorking but have a few concerns. 1st concern, noise and from what I have been told around here in Oregon they will check you for noise and spark arrester. 2nd concern is drilling holes in the side panel. 20 years ago I had a bike that I ran it with out the air cleaner cover and first experienced uncorking before anybody talked about it. Then I dumped it in a water crossing and sucked in water and cracked the rings. A friend told me about some valves that you can buy and use instead of just drill holes. What process did you use for jetting and uncorking?


JC

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  • SaltyWalrus

Posted January 12, 2005 - 10:59 AM

#11

Don't want to start a "new motor break-in" thread, but I have read leaving a new engine to idle is one of the worst things you can do. The theory is, to get a good ring seal with the cylinder you have to put the rings under pressure. You put the rings under pressure by drag racing up thru the gears under max load (with fully warmed up motor of coarse) and using the motor to deccellarate bac k thru the gears. This compression forces rings out into freshly honed (rough) cylinder wall and wears the rings into the cylinder, creating a good seal. Bottom line: run it hard. Let it cool off again. Run it hard again. Check out this link: http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htm

  • jcoyne97222

Posted January 12, 2005 - 02:13 PM

#12

Very interesting web page. I guess I can't start it up just to listen to it run like the site says. I had heard you don't want to let a motor stay at constant speed so I would open and close the throttle while in the garage. I guess I will change my method!

  • J_T

Posted January 12, 2005 - 02:19 PM

#13

Wow your talking about more than the basic uncorking! You don't have to go as far as drilling holes in teh side cover to get a thrilling ride and make it run cooler...

Take out the air-box plugs (free)
Replace or cut out the restricting intake spacer between the carb and cylinder (free or ~$13)
rejet carb to altitude and temps Need Main jet, pilot jet and possibly needle (price varies but decide what you want and buy individually is cheapest)
And open up exhaust by either aftermarket or drilling or a baja designs tip on stock canister! (from free if you drill it to ~$100's to 2-300 if you new system)


All this is basic uncorking and you will notice a huge difference! if you don't see water drill out the side panel but I drive through water that deep regullarly so I haven't and won't unless I can plug it when needed.

http://www.qsl.net/n...ing the brp.htm

its all easy and if you buy a new exhaust tip and intake spacer you can always put it back to stock if it has to go in for warntee work!

DO IT DO IT DO IT DO IT!

You'll double your fun!

JT

  • J_T

Posted January 12, 2005 - 02:23 PM

#14

But a plugged up (stock) bike runs real lean so it runs hot and boiling over is normal...I bought all the higher pressure Rad cap and all b/c in woods and slow riding it'd over heat but after I got it all set up right I put the cooling back to stock and it'll idle if it has to with no problems!

The Edelbrock Carb is a easy way to fix the carb jetting and any starting issues that may arise but that gets better with uncorking it as well!

If you do rejet there are tons of places to find what othes are using in similar altitudes and temps that will give you an idea of what to set it as instead of testing 3-4 different sizes.

  • jcoyne97222

Posted January 13, 2005 - 01:41 PM

#15

I was looking at my air box last night and noticed the plug at the top. I hadn't heard anybody talk about removing it. I am assumng that is what you are talking about. I will take your advise. Thanks,

  • qadsan

Posted January 13, 2005 - 01:45 PM

#16

That's one of the plugs to remove, but you don't want to do that unless you rejet and carve out or replace your intake manifold and either drill out your exhaust tip or use the Honda HRC tip or an aftermarket tip, otherwise your bike may run like crap.

  • Haymaker

Posted January 13, 2005 - 02:13 PM

#17

JC,

Don't bother with the holes in the air cover. It's not really needed in a stock bike, just creates noise, and lets more crap into the filter area.

"Uncorking" should still keep you well within the comfort zone with the local constabulary, and the spark arrestor is still totally intact after the process. As Qadsan suggested (Thanks Dude), I strongly suggest you study through the www.xr650r.us site to answer all your questions and hopefully save some money. The FAQ page is invaluable to a newbie to the Scarlet Swine world. There's some small quirks with the XR650R out of the box that are easily and cheaply, if not free, to do. For instance, go tighten your kickstarter bolt. :-)

I check these forums pretty rarely, so if you have any questions gimme a line at xr650rdeity@xr650r.us .

Enjoy your new pig and look out for the haybales.

The Haymaker

  • hill5150

Posted January 13, 2005 - 02:18 PM

#18

In regards to the kickstarter bolt, I drilled a micro size hole through the head of the bolt and attached race tie wire so it does not fall off. Invaluable in the hot So Cal desert with no one or hills to give you a push start when that sumbitch falls off.:cry: Ride on...............:cry:

  • jcoyne97222

Posted January 13, 2005 - 04:01 PM

#19

Thanks for the advise, I will just keep reading. The web is truly amazing with all of the resources available.



JC

  • qadsan

Posted January 13, 2005 - 04:22 PM

#20

JC, I just wanted to clarify the plugs we're talking about incase you're thinking about the pink colored vacuum cap on top the air box, which is not the right one. The airbox plugs (also referred to as duct caps, snorkle, restrictors, etc) that need to be removed when you uncork the bike are located just above the air filter at the upper right side of your airbox if you're looking square at your air filter. Here's a picture of one of the plugs being removed at the follwing link.

http://www.off-road....box_640x431.jpg

Here's a drawing where the bottom picture shows the two plugs that need to be removed, but only when you do the rest of the mods (intake, jetting, exhaust tip).

http://www.off-road....bbs/powerup.gif





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