Removing "O" Ring Chain Link



7 replies to this topic
  • Ron_S

Posted July 28, 2001 - 03:08 AM

#1

I never had an O ring chain before, and I dropped to a 13 tooth primary. I lowered my front forks 1/2", and that seemed to make a difference in the turning. I want to take a link out of my chain to shorten the wheelbase a little more, but I'm unsure if the old technique of just grinding the link pin down then punching it out is the way to do it. I see link breakers, but never used them. Thanks, Ron

  • MOmilkman

Posted July 28, 2001 - 04:19 AM

#2

Its very possible to do it this way. I have had friends tell me thats the way they do it and they would never buy a chain breaker bacause its just a waste of money.
Quite the contrare - monfrare.
I tried breaking my chain using the ol' grinding method the first time and I was out in the shop grinding and slamming it with a punch and sledgehammer untill I was blue in the face. Im sure it works if you have the patience and time but if you think you might do this again in the future then I highly suggest the breaker.

Motion Pro sells one for about $25 I believe. (Be sure and get some instructions on how to use it properly or you can break the pin in it. (Although that is replaceable too) Good luck!

Darin

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Darin in Missouri - 1999 WR400F
Enduro Heaven - Ozark Mountain TrailRiders

  • PMAUST

Posted July 28, 2001 - 05:26 AM

#3

Its very interesting. My 00WR400(Canadian) came with the o-ring chain with the old fashioned Master link. My friend who got either a 00 or 01 WR250 has none! I don't know why the difference. I pull my chain off pretty offen to soak it. I also bought a chain breaker. Good investment. They don't cost very much and if you ever need one they come in real handy. Personally, if i had to grind it, I would only do it once, then get a Master link. Good luck, P

  • motoman393

Posted July 28, 2001 - 05:14 PM

#4

I always use the grinding method...the key is you have to punch it out when it is still hot (you can you a propane torch to ease it out). You also have to grind it down a little more than one might think! I have done this probably 10-15 times and it has worked great every time on O-ring, x-ring, and regular chains! It takes around 5 minutes to do!

Garrett

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I get my kicks on a 426!
Motoman393's MX Site

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  • YamaCazi

Posted July 29, 2001 - 10:03 AM

#5

What are you guys talking about....Chain Brakers and sledge Hammers....Man what overkill.

Dude I change chains almost every weekend...Mostly for others that come up to my race trailer asking for help....

Do yourself a favor go out and purchase the cheapest Dremmel tool you can find and a box of grinding wheels. Grind the heads off the link you want to change and then pry the link apart with a flat tim screw driver. If your working on a 400/426 chain (520) it is a snap. If you are going to put a new master link in you will need a cheap hand held chain compressor to get the locking clip back on....

It's not rocket science....

  • MOmilkman

Posted July 29, 2001 - 12:32 PM

#6

Originally posted by YamaCazi:

Do yourself a favor go out and purchase the cheapest Dremmel tool you can find and a box of grinding wheels. Grind the heads off the link you want to change and then pry the link apart with a flat tim screw driver.


Yea, yea, ....you COULD do all that. Or, you could simply push the pin through with the turn of a wrench on the chain breaker. :)

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Darin in Missouri - 1999 WR400F
Enduro Heaven - Ozark Mountain TrailRiders

[This message has been edited by MOmilkman (edited 07-29-2001).]

  • motoman393

Posted July 29, 2001 - 06:34 PM

#7

I agree with YamaCazi! :)

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I get my kicks on a 426!
Motoman393's MX Site

  • John_H

Posted July 30, 2001 - 04:01 PM

#8

I was reading on the 250 forum and it seems the chain on the 250's doesn't have a master link. Just one more thing you'd have to do, putting one on.

[This message has been edited by John H (edited 07-30-2001).]




 
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