What are individual part numbers for the head and base gasket?

ron ayers lists
11141-29F01  GASKET,CYLINDER  
11173-29F00  GASKET,CYL HEAD  
11241-29F00  GASKET, CYLINDE

http://www.ronayers..../gasket_set.cfm

11141-29F01 GASKET,CYLINDER    head gasket.

11241-29F00 GASKET, CYLINDE    base gasket.

11173-29F00 GASKET,CYL HEAD    valve cover gasket

joemoto650 said:

Part Number: 11141-29F01
Description: GASKET,CYLINDER HEAD
Price: $20.26


Part Number: 11241-29F00
Description: GASKET, CYLINDER BASE. E
Price: $6.71


Part Number: 11241-29F00
Description: GASKET, CYLINDER BASE, S
Price: $6.71

          Darn it Burned stop that              




        

Again, I really appreciate all the help.

joe

If your looking for a top end gasket set for the E (more CR with the thinner Base gasket) The TT store has a top end set for $23

And you do not need the valve cover gasket,,it is re-useable

Got the parts and I am going to buy a valve spring compressor (bar clamp crazy glue wood dowels etc, tonight.  Pop the head on, install the engine hook it all back up and maybe I will ride this weekend!

sweet

joemoto650 said:

Without the correct tool,, you'll need to make an adapter for the valve locks... Double,, no triple check that you have them seated correctly

This may be of use to you, a nice engine with only 400 miles on it

Engine

took awhile to figure out the locks but by the fourth one I just popped it in.  Now I gotta get the valves adjusted and button it all back up.

joe

Go post again and let us know how it is doing. There are folks here that care. prairiedawg

prairiedawg said:

There are circling buzzards too, waiting for you to quit and part out  

Sorry partner, thats really not enough info to give any good feedback!!!!. Help us out with abit more detailed post .

Some nerve of this guy trying to get his ride together instead of posting stuff to amuse us.

well I had some very scary moments, but disaster was averted.  I dropped a tappet shim down the oil return line thru the head and cylinder, luckily it was trapped just behind the right side cover.  Anyhow its going slowly, my girlfriend keeps interupting me stopping by and getting me interested in other things.  If I get it all adjusted tonite I can put it in the frame and hook it up tomorrow night.  Should be studying, but this is way more interesting.  

If any one is from the midwest there is a ride next weekend 28 29 and 30th of january near peoria, IL.  Kinda a dual sport camp out set up on advrider.com.  A friend of mine has a farm that we can ride and camp on and the roads around there are quite fun too, lotsa twisty gravel and sand roads.  should be fun with screws in the knobbies if this bike actually runs when I am done.  Any one interested is welcome to come on down and ride or just hang out and party in the cold.  pm me if you wanna know whats up.

Glad you found it. I find those prodcedures require total focus, and checking to make sure all your dowl pins are there is a good idea also.>G<

Got it started, buts its 4am and its in the basement, dont think my room mate appreciates the noise.  Test ride tomorrow.  Any idea how to break it in again?, if it really is fixed.

joe

I'd guess you have a shorter run in now as you don't need to run in the bottom end or transmission. Were it me, I'd run hard enough to seat the rings. That is, run for a while, allow a cooldown, then run again for a few cycles. There is a heck of a lot of noise about run ins all with different theories. I'm in the cycling hot and cool camp with harder runs to seat the rings. I guess your inclination would be to baby the bike as you worked hard & spend a lot of $$. I can sure understand that.

I'd change the oil at 20 miles. Yeah, that's silly, but I do that on all new bikes.

This is the break in method,, many here recommend

I for one also subscribe to the ,,do not start it, till you can ride it.. But,, your past that at this point.

So,, start, check for leaks, as soon as you can feel some heat in the cylinder...go ride.  Back from the first ride, change the oil and filter.  Then, go ride  
Once the rings are broke in ,, change oil again.. Use Dino oil for the first 500 miles,, if your riding it hard,,,,,if your doing typical street riding,, make that 1,000 miles.  Then switch to synthetic oil

Well, Did the first break in ride on the snow last night, seems to run good, just rode like I always do, lotsa changes in rpm etc. . .   now I gotta track down another filter and change oil again before the big ride next weekend.  Would also like to get a few more miles on her before I ride all the way down there.

thanks for all the help.