I have a buddy w/ a WR 250F w/ aprox. 110 miles on it.He's done a couple of oil changes on it w/ the normal yamalube oil.The shifter is real notchy from 2nd.-1rst, and harder to find nuetral too!(w/or w/o the clutch pulled). We thought this would smooth out over the breakin period w/ miles of riding..But @ 110 miles still there! It's a real PAIN! to start also..I think that's due to stock jetting and we are @ 3000' and higher..I have a WR426F and the shifting is as smooth as glass!.....Any help would be great!.....Thanks.......Tim

Tim, two things...first the clutch pressure plate is JUNK! Take it out and smooth all of the burrs you can find on it. I actually beveled (slightly) the inner edge where the pressure plate hits the clutch plate. That completely solved my clutch problem. I can get neutral every time now no problem! Second...raise the idle! mine was also a nightmare to start until I raised it. Now I hardly use the hot start. BTW, I used an air angled die grinder with a small Scotchbrite pad attachment. IT smoothed the plate perfectly!
Randy

Thanks for the reply,Randy.. The thing I was wondering about is I have a 01 WR426 and do not have the problem w/ the notchy shifting, and was wondering if it was a warranty item being so new?...Thanks again for the info!!......Tim

Warranty??? Yamaha???? I'm starting to think those two words don't go together!! I started using Amsoil at about 175 mi. and the notchy shifting got a lot better. As far as warranty...forget it. Over 30 days and they don't know you anymore!
Randy

You can control this. Take off the right side cover and under the clutch is the notched wheel that controls gear selection. The ramp for neutral is huge: between 1st and neutral--- and between neutral and 2nd. You can file these 2 ramps down a bit and your 1-2 shift (and 2-1 shift) will become as smooth as your other gears. Actually I went a bit too far and those two shifts on my bike are actually the smoothest on the whole gearbox now. Neutral becomes a bit more tricky to find but that is a good thing. Its kind of fail safe too. If you screw something up (its really hard to) it will only cost you about $38 for a new part.

There wouldn't be any way that you could show a picture of this procedure? Or is there an explanation of this somewhere else that we could check out that has pictures? Thanks