Did anyone realize that the wr250F has a brake light? The dual element bulb is there but the wire stops under the seat. Only the running lamp wire is plugged in. To make it work all you need to do is add a switch. This bike has more hidden secrets than anything I have ever seen. Throttle stop, exhaust plug, grey wire timing bug-a-boo, neautral rev limiter......I wonder if there is a high/low beam headlight hiding in there?

Mike

Yes it is wired for a high/low beam. The bulb is a dual element. There are three wires running up to the bulb. The third wire in the connector does not have a clip on the end of it. In stock form the high beam is always on. Baja Designs sells an easy to install brake switch for $20.00 If you do alot of night riding a high/low beam switch would help. The low beam does light up the ground just under the fender better.

I bought the hydraulic brake light switch from Baja Designs and installed it on my WR. I made a wiring harness covered with heat shrink tubing. The wire routing from the rear brake actuator to under the seat is somewhat tricky 'cause you don't want the wire to show yet you don't want it to be too close to the tailpipe! Had to bleed the brakes after installation. I did manage a good install though and it works GREAT! I can post pics of my solution if needed.

Next mod is to add a switch to turn the low beam on (in conjunction with the high beam!) Baja says this is OK and I've done it on my girlfriend's converted TT-R125L. You won't believe how much light it puts out...both near and far...haven't blown out the bulb or melted the housing yet! It will be somewhat dim at idle, but hey, who *rides* at idle...there is plenty of light when you're gunning it.

I also installed the high-end fold-down rear view mirror from Baja. It rocks too...it's actually usable unlike their cheaper model which just vibrates. You also have to replace half your clutch perch to have a place to screw in the mirror...total cost was about 30 bucks for the mirror and perch...no regrets. couple these mods with a license plate and you're minimally road ready (the way I like to keep it). Wride.

The stator puts out 55 watts, so for a usable taillight/brakelight you should change the headlight to a 35 watt bulb. I've got my WR titled and street legal (in Michigan). Yamaha has the bike ready for an easy and cheap conversion. To use a horn, you have to change the regulator to a 4 wire and add a small 12 volt ni-cad battery ( smaller than a pack of smokes !)and it works great !!

W-Ride,

I just got my title and tag here in FL. (Just walked right up to the counter with the form and my Yamaha Vehicle Origination papers and got it.) I think it was just dumb luck really, the hardest thing that they asked about was the odometer reading. I said it didn't have one (DOH!) and almost screwed myself, I should have just said 252 miles or something and played if off.

Anyway, I would like to make the same mod to the headlight on my WR426. If you have an schematics or pics you could post or send I would like to see them. I was thinking if it is possible to put in a 4 position switch, that would be cool too. (off, low, high, dual high-low)

I would also love to see the pics and specs you did to make your brake light work.

Thanks

I was just looking at Baja Designs website, and I don't see they had the brake lever switch to make the brake light work and didn't see it. Any ideas.

Additionally they have a "lighting improvement kit" for the '00 bikes and newer. a 90/100 watt bulb rather than the standard 55/60 watt bulb, somthing to check out. Lighting Improvement Kit

Cruise the Yamaha dealer and check out the Raptor 660R sport quad. There is a brake light switch hooked to the front brake lever somehow, and I don't recall what type of switch it was. (I had a Raptor for a year)

you can use the very same "banjo bolt" type hydraulic brake switch on both the front and rear brakes. this is what it looks like installed on the rear:
http://losdos.dyndns...DSC00026_sm.jpg
run the cable up behind the plastic:
http://losdos.dyndns...DSC00027_sm.jpg
you just need to remember to tie wrap it to the frame to keep it away from the muffler:
http://losdos.dyndns...DSC00029_sm.jpg

now then michCCCrider... i ate it bigtime in michigan on day two of the CCC "six days" last july and completely destroyed my home-made HI/LO headlight switches. i'm still looking for a nice solution to the HI/LO + HORN switch problem(s). i don't want/need blinkers and the associated switching like you would find on a true D.S. bike. instead i try to keep it simple. any ideas boys? here WAS my original "OEM" setup -- as i mentioned above it lasted two days...
http://losdos.dyndns...DSC00089_sm.jpg
http://losdos.dyndns...DSC00090_sm.jpg

ps
i've found this .AU WRF wiring diagram to be very helpful at times:
http://losdos.dyndns.../wrf-wiring.jpg

jim aka the wrooster

wrooster,
Take a look at a headlight switch ass'y from a Yamaha Warrior quad. The control has a off/low/hi headlight switch, an off switch to kill the motor, and a start switch that could be used to sound a horn. Ideally you could get one from an ATV salvage yard for cheap.

The stator puts out more than 55 watts. The older wr's had 80 watts. The newer wr's have 120 watts.

what wrooster said....