Anyone using the Vortips baffle from Fineline. I picked up the recommendation from another board and wanted to know who else might be using. It really quieted down the engine and I still get better power than with the stock baffle. Just wondering if the Vortip baffle is too much like stock. Can it be true that the Vortip can be quiet as stock AND release the power from within... HMMMM - Any comments?

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01 WR250F
87 KDX200

I am running the vortip in my wr250. The bike is very quite and I can barely tell the difference with it in or not. I use it for trail riding and around the house. I can easily talk to someone with the bike running. When I race I remove it mainly for one reason, it lets people know I'm coming behind them. Last Mx I did, on the last lap I pulle d up by a cr250 and he made a slip in the berm and I passed him just before the finish line. The loud bike just seems to intimidate people into making mistakes. My bike is yz timed with stock jetting and the grey wire cut. The vortip works excellent in my opinion. I may also ride some GNCC's next year and they check noise. If my bike doesn't pass in 30 seconds it will.

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I ride like I'm 16 and heal like I'm 61.

Can you give me an OD dimension on the Vortip? I've got an idea.

GNCC's do not check noise. I am 5 th in 4 stroke A right now and have not been checked. Trust me, this BG system would not pass. The ECEA I think sometimes has a sound check for enduros but not the GNCC's.

I have a vortip insert with the stock exaust and air box cover removed with a UNI filter. At the ISDE qualifier in Idaho in June it registered 92 decibels by an official from AMA using official stuff. 94 decibels is limit for ISDE riders and 98 decibels for everyone else.

flwr250f,

I have a vortip from fineline also. If you examined it when you got it you noticed three different length tubes at the inlet to it (more on this later). The summed area of those three tubes is much larger then the pea sized stock baffle area. The area of the three tube openings is probably real close to that at the exit (the single hole at the end of the funny bent portion which points down). This definitely uncorks the engine, and begs it to be yz timed in my opinion. I think the stock timing is there just for the restrictive baffle and the silly ass grey wire they added to change the cdi mapping. I suffer no low end loss with the yz timing (grey wire disconnected of course!!) and will not change back to stock timing unless if there is overwhelming proof displayed here for it.

Now yo may wonder how could the vortip be so quiet but yet allow for a power increase?
The answer is in the three different length tubes. If you take two waves of equal amplitude and shift them by 180 degrees they will cancel each other out. If the two waves are in phase (on top of each other they will add). Various degrees of phasing will cause more or less resultant amplitude. Sound is made up of waves and the three different length tubes phase the sound waves to cause the resultant sound wave to be attenuated significantly. Perfect cancellation can only take place in theory because sound is much more complex then the one dimensional illustrative example above.

Also aiming the tip down gives the benefit of ground sound absorption which adds a little more noise reduction too.

Hope this helps!

Gear_Head

I've got a vortip for my wr250 and the bike runs like complete cow-dukey. It bogs terribly in the lower ranges to the point of being unrideable, and doesn't rev out very well. I'm yz timed, with a toggle switch to turn the grey wire on and off. My jetting is a 175 main, needle clip lowered one slot. Did anybody have to make adjustments when they started using this vortip?

GEAR_HEAD please explain density altitute so we may all jet cleanly,jetting is not universal,it should be in ballpark,but testing and a lot of working changing carb settings one at a time is where the factories pull the extra hp on raceday.you litterally can rejet from a cool morning to a hot afternoon on the trail or after climbing higher up the mountains.springtime will need different jetting than summer,relax it's not an inline 4 or god forbid an V4,only one carb,so test and record and you will soon become a jetting guru

GEAR_HEAD please explain density altitute so we may all jet cleanly,jetting is not universal,it should be in ballpark,but testing and a lot of working changing carb settings one at a time is where the factories pull the extra hp on raceday.you litterally can rejet from a cool morning to a hot afternoon on the trail or after climbing higher up the mountains.springtime will need different jetting than summer,relax it's not an inline 4 or god forbid an V4,only one carb,so test and record and you will soon become a jetting guru

Barbarian, the problem most likely isn't with the Vortip! I'd check other causes before I'd remove it. my WR has the Vortip and the bike still screams with stock timing yet! Also the grey wire's cut and stock jetting. You better look further into it.
Randy

barbarian,

when you said you lowered your needle one clip position I am inferring you met groove 4 which would be a richer setting than standard (groove 3). I think this is your problem. I would go to groove position 2. If you don't see an improvement you probably have bigger problems as Randy stated.

My bike has yz timing, vortip, grey wire disconnected. I am running a 175 main, needle position in groove 2 and my bike runs great. The density altitude here in phoenix today at maximum temp was about 4000 feet. Your density altitude in columbia today was about 3100 feet. Our density altitudes are not to far off so I would suspect our bikes to be jetted similarily. For the most part conditions here in the summer are going to be a little leaner setting wise (standard set up would be too rich) then where you are at. I suspect I may be a little rich with my 175 main but It seems to still run pretty good. If going leaner on the clip solves your low end problem and the high end doesn't improve you might try the stock 170 main.

To answer braindamage's question density altitude is pressure altitude corrected for temperature. ok what the hell does that mean?
Pressure altitude is based on standard day conditions which means at 59 degrees farenheit and sea level altitude (0 feet) a mercury barometer would read 29.92 in of Hg (mercury). At these standard sea level conditions if the outside (ambient) temperature is higher then 59 degrees you will have an air density which is lower than standard thus giving you a higher apparent altitude. Therefore, density altitude gives a convenient way for everyone to make measurements using the same yardstick (so to speak). Here is a link which allows you to calculate density altitude. http://rshelq.home.s...com/calc_da.htm

Relative humidity usually plays a smaller effect then the ambiemt temperature condition but is included in the calculation.
My altitude here in phoenix is about 1100 feet above sea level. If I take current weather conditions and input them into the link above I get a density altitude of 3100 feet. This means the altitude here right now is equal to 3100 feet based on a standard day. The key is that if we all compare density altitudes we are using the same baseline, and as a result the comparions are apples to apples.

Hope this helps!

Gear_Head

Sorry all,

In my last post I stated:

My altitude here in phoenix is about 1100 feet above sea level. If I take current weather conditions and input them into the link above I get a density altitude of 3100 feet. This means the altitude here right now is equal to 3100 feet based on a standard day.


The 3100 above should have been 4000 feet like the calcualtions above.

Gear_Head

Ok. I don't think I have deeper problems as the bike runs awsum with the vortip out. I will try leaning my jetting back to stock.

Barbarian,

You just confirmed what i thought. By taking the vortip out you allow more air to flow through the engine which means less fuel. You effectively leaned your bike out. I suspect you will still get some low end bog in the standard no.3 clip position with the vortip in and will end up in the no.2 position. Also, the standard 170 main will probably do the trick.

Gear_Head

I'm running a vortip, YZ throttle stop, no air box lid, no grey wire, stock jetting (I'm at 200 to 700 feet above sea level)and the bike absolutly ripps. Slightly turned up the idle and it ALWAYS starts within 2 kicks...hot or cold. The vortip did make alot of difference....and passes sound check at around 93db.

GEAR_HEAD thanks, good explnation ,also turned up idle for easier starting ,grey wire mod,airbox mod,yosh pipe and header,currently but not for long stock wr250 cam timing,ims seat tank combo(this seat feels heavier than stock yamaha)stock jetting and it now has a motor that is awesome.also just arrived carbon fiber glide plate this stuff is soooo!!!! cool,soon to come fonseco airbox,after years in rocky mountain enduro circuit,now back east in GNCC ,seniorB to learn GNCC then we'll see.