I went ahead and spent my GWB tax refund on a new Magura Hydraulic clutch lever with the trick compression release on the same housing.

After I read the instructions a couple of times and completed the preinstallation mods, I was ready to route the cable through the origional eyelets. I got a little PO'd when I found that the slave cylinder did not fit.

I was wondering if the people who have already installed there systems either removed the cable from the slave cylinder, zip tied the cable to the frame eyelets or did something completely different.

I did not want to open the system if I did not have to because it would have to bleed to get it to function correctly.

Any hints or special mods would be greatly appriciated.

I couldnt get the master through the frame eyelets either, so I zip tied the whole thing and it seems to work perfect. The clutch didnt line up at all, but with some(which turned out to be alot) of grinding on the old bracket everything works fine. I will try to take some pics of it so I can show you exactly how I did it. Be sure to re-adjust the decompression lever. If you skip this step the cable may be to tight when you turn the bars all the way to the side. This will make the decompression lever act as though it was pulled in.

WTS, I faced the same problem when I installed my Billetanium. I tried zip-ties when I had it on my 400, but never felt secure with that. Bleeding is way too much trouble. I ended up cutting the frame eyelets with a pair of dikes, bending them open and routing the cable through, then bending the eyelets back shut. The metal is alot tougher than you might think, mine have never tried to re-open, either on my 400 or 250. You can put a piece of heat shrink on the cut if you're concerned the hose might get nicked.